Will T19 Transfer case bolt to ZF5? (84' Auto to 5-speed conversion.)

jibronee

Registered User
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Posts
31
Reaction score
1
Location
Slo, California
84' F350 dually, auto 6.9, 4x4; converting to 89' zf5. Finally got most/all parts; I think.

Bought an 85' f250, 4spd, 4x4, 6.9 parts truck for transfer case, pedal assembly, tunnel shift plate, etc. Purchased an 89' zf5 separately.

Haven't ripped everything apart yet, but also replacing my 6.9 with a used/rebuilt 6.9 as well. And the more threads I read, the more questions I have.

1. Will the transfer case off the T19 bolt onto my zf5? It looks to be same bolt to pattern as my auto/C6 transfer case has different bolt pattern and wont' fit the zf5.

2. I'm beating a dead horse here, but which flywheel best to use? SMF or DMF? I have both used in the parts I bought. How bad is the roll over noise/vibration? What exactly is that? DMF can slip/explode and ruin trans, but SMF prematurely wear out trans due to vibration and they're noisier??? It's not a daily driver truck, only when I need to haul a light trailer 4,000-7,000 lbs total or take an off road cruise.

3. Never done a diesel engine swap of this size before. What's the safest/best way? I have fork lift access at work and was thinking of pulling tranny from below, then yanking engine. Reverse procedure for re-install.

4. Bought a used, but rebuilt 6.9 engine. Just checked compression and all in between 480 and 510 psi, but it's been sitting about 5 years. Best to change rear main before install? What do you guys recommend?

Thanks in advance!!!

Chris
 

franklin2

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Posts
5,160
Reaction score
1,384
Location
Va
The transfer case will fit the zf.

If you have a DMF in good shape, you can use it and it will be quieter. But it will eventually wear out like the clutch does. Look it over carefully, if it's an original DMF, it's probably worn out.

Never heard of a SMF damaging the trans. They are a little noisy though, but only really at idle. If you turn the idle speed up a little bit, most of the noise will go away. It also depends on how smooth your engine runs as to how noisy it is.

If you have a forklift available, and don't mind a little more work, you can pull the front clip and slide the engine/trans in as one piece.

If the engine has been rebuilt, I would think the seals would be good?
 

jibronee

Registered User
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Posts
31
Reaction score
1
Location
Slo, California
Rad!! It has an E3 part number and it's a borg warner unit with same type of speedo connection hole. It has a single wire plug on back of unit; what's that for?


The seller told me it was a replacement DMF and it does look newer and not worn. But I think I might go with the SMF; less to go wrong and worry about.


So slide engine trans in with or without transfer case?


I bought a rebuilt 289 and let it sit for 8-9 years before I got to my project and rear main leaked like no other!! Just don't want this to happen again. I'll clean it up and see how it looks. What's the triangular plate for or do?

Could you recommend me a good manual to buy with specs/diagrams for 6.9/7.3 idi's?

Thanks for advice!!
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,233
Reaction score
10,922
Location
edmond, ks
It has a single wire plug on back of unit; what's that for?
That wire should be for the 4X4 light. It's to let you know that it's in 4X4.

So slide engine trans in with or without transfer case?
I don't like pulling or removing the engine and transmission together. If I was to ignore that, I would still say to put the transfer case in separately. It hangs funny compared to the rest of the engine/trans combo and I think that it would get caught on more things. It's really not hard to bench press the transfer case into place. it doesn't weight a lot.

What's the triangular plate for or do?
This is the rear engine cover. Besides holding the rear seal, it also covers the back of the camshaft. I like to remove the cover for rear seal replacement. It's easier to get the seal installed in the cover if it's off of the engine.
 

jibronee

Registered User
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Posts
31
Reaction score
1
Location
Slo, California
Thanks for the advice. I'm stumped on what year flywheel and pressure plate to use. I understand there are 11" and 12" clutch discs (12" being HD), but will any pre 93' flywheel/pressure plate combo work on my 6.9? Are early 7.3's and 6.9's balanced the same?
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,233
Reaction score
10,922
Location
edmond, ks
Are early 7.3's and 6.9's balanced the same?
Not quite. I don't think that they make new flywheels for a 6.9. You'll have to use one for a 7.3. I've had the same Luk SMF kit on a few 6.9's and one 7.3. I couldn't really tell much difference in the way that any of them idled or ran for that matter.
 

franklin2

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Posts
5,160
Reaction score
1,384
Location
Va
If you go with the larger clutch, I have heard of problems with the little cover on the bottom hitting and rubbing. That being said, I have been running without that cover for 15 years now, and never had any problems from it. I heard a rumor the 12 inch clutch is easier to push with the pedal, but maybe someone can confirm that.
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,233
Reaction score
10,922
Location
edmond, ks
If you go with the larger clutch, I have heard of problems with the little cover on the bottom hitting and rubbing. That being said, I have been running without that cover for 15 years now, and never had any problems from it.
I've run without that cover myself and I didn't have any issues. If you do have rubbing issues with the larger clutch, you could always clearance the cover a little bit. BFH anyone?
 

jibronee

Registered User
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Posts
31
Reaction score
1
Location
Slo, California
No parts shops can confirm that an 87' solid mass flywheel will match with a later year 7.3 clutch kit. I found napa to have a complete kit with SMF flywheel for an 88'. But this kit says it has a 12 1/4" clutch disc. If it's easier to push; great. If the only problem is that it might hit the lower inspection cover, I can live with that. Just wanted to make sure that this 12 1/4" kit will fit. I found 11", 11 7/8" which i believe to be the called 12", but never seen a 12 1/4".

And what is with the diesel vin "M" that is asked to identify parts? "M" cover all 7.3 idi's?


Thanks for input guys!!
 

TNBrett

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Posts
748
Reaction score
665
Location
Middle Tennessee
The VIN is a standardized form. For most vehicles sold in the US, the 8th digit is designated as the engine identifier. It varies between manufacturers and from year to year, but it can normally be found quickly with an internet search. I think there were a couple of letters used for the 7.3 n/a , and a couple more for the IDIT’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,233
Reaction score
10,922
Location
edmond, ks
Here's the one thing that we all forgot about. You have a four speed. The 1988 SMF kit is (most likely) for a ZF5. The input shaft on the ZF5 is bigger than the one on a 4 speed. The splines in the clutch disc will be wobbly on your input shaft and may even not engage at all.
 

franklin2

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Posts
5,160
Reaction score
1,384
Location
Va
Here's the one thing that we all forgot about. You have a four speed. The 1988 SMF kit is (most likely) for a ZF5. The input shaft on the ZF5 is bigger than the one on a 4 speed. The splines in the clutch disc will be wobbly on your input shaft and may even not engage at all.

Yes, don't fall into the trap thinking the 4 speed factory SMF flywheel will work as a substitute for the zf flywheel. Your only choices for the zf are a factory DMF, or a retro-fit SMF that comes with a special aftermarket solid flywheel.

That being said, there is one other choice you have, the one I am running. I am running the original DMF flywheel with the guts taken out and the whole thing bolted together solid. This is what they call on here the "Lucky Mod". I have been running it for years and it hasn't failed yet. It's a little noisy, I found a clutch disc with springs in it to use, but I think the aftermarket SMF kits have discs with better spring configurations. Those springs in the disc are the only thing they have to battle the noise. The original DMF disc was solid with no springs.
 

540milotalon

Registered User
Joined
Aug 31, 2020
Posts
11
Reaction score
7
Location
Virginia
I am not sure about the T-case but I did install a a ZF5 from a '93 7.3 IDI into my '83 6.9 IDI truck. Both donor and recipient are 2 wheel drive. Same drive shaft I think??? I used a Clutch/pressure plate kit for a 7.3 and the flywheel was .600 thinner than the DMF and the hydraulic clutch rod kept falling out from over extension. I cut the rod in two (not half) and drilled and tapped it 1/4"-20 with jam nuts making it 5/8" longer. The jam nuts are out of the rubber seal. PROBLEM SOLVED!

Noise level not bad, similar to any truck.
PM with an email address I can share a '85 Diesel manual for free and several useful links.
 
Last edited:

jibronee

Registered User
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Posts
31
Reaction score
1
Location
Slo, California
So this weekend I pulled my auto, transfer case, and 6.9. Damn, that engine is a beast!!! My C6 has a New Process 208F TC. From my understanding this auto TC won't bolt to my zf5. Well it bolted right up. Only difference I saw is that the splined output shaft on C6 protrudes @ 1.0 inches. Splined output shaft on zf5 protrudes about 1/2". There is @ 2 inches of overlap with C6 and TC. Where as the zf5 and same TC have 1.5 inches of overlap. Is this OK to run?

I'm going to pull TC from donor 85' 4spd tonight and compare them.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,217
Posts
1,128,469
Members
24,043
Latest member
tottripp

Members online

Top