Why do my radio's keep going out?

[Coffeehound]

1993 IDI: Replaced the original radio with a cheap FM with Bluetooth radio. Lasted about a year. Replaced that one with another cheap (but better) AM/FM w/Bluetooth radio. That one lasted about 8 months. Is it the glow plug power fluctuations that are causing this? Do I need to hook the power differently? Your thoughts?

 

[gandalf]

I'd guess that you have a different problem, one as yet unidentified. OTOH, you did admit to installing cheap radios. It's entirely possible that they have a high failure rate.

I've changed the radio in my '92 truck once, and that was only because I wanted one which read MP3 music files. The radio which came out was fine, with only that one limitation. Both radios are Panasonic.

 

[Scotty4]

There is a Radio Frequency Interference Capacitor (prior to 3G) next to the alt voltage regulator on the pass side fender well. Looks like a little tube. A lot of vehicles use these to cut down the noise from the alternator and other electrical equipment from interfering with the injection system and radios. My 88 TBI had this issue with a bad one. My Subaru could only use a certain alternator or it would throw noise into the cam sensor causing knock codes. We have less to go wrong here thankfully, but could be harming the operation of the radio.

As far as them giving up, I would check the amperage draw and your wiring setup. And speaker condition. Aftermarket amp receiving power from the radio at all? Lots can go wrong with aftermarket harnesses.

 

[Cubey]

I'd guess that you have a different problem, one as yet unidentified. OTOH, you did admit to installing cheap radios. It's entirely possible that they have a high failure rate.

Dunno. The extreme cheapo one I bought 4 years ago for my F250 (AM/FM/SD/USB/BT, no CD), at the time people were saying they don't last. Mine has. It's not great because I have to occasionally unplug the connector from the back (to remove the constant 12v) to reset it but it isn't very often.

 

[Cubey]

There is a Radio Frequency Interference Capacitor (prior to 3G) next to the alt voltage regulator on the pass side fender well. Looks like a little tube.

Ah yes, I have one in a plastic box that was on the 78 Dodge van (newer than the van, didn't have the aftermarket radio anymore). It was in the dash on a 12v wire though. I didn't know what it was for but I kept it "just in case". It did ok without it as I recall? I guess the alternator on it wasn't too noisy. I should put it on my RV because it can't get any radio stations at all due to the alternator noise, it just picks up... well... noise.

 

[Scotty4]

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECH...qIvj4leJA3-QwM4fzyfSx6EdmdsDABoaAv3IEALw_wcB&

A camper without tunes!

 

[Big Bart]

It sounds more like unfortunate luck than a power issue.

But you can do the following checks.

Check your positive and negative connections you use for the stereo. Make sure they both are in good shape and they do not have voltage drop. A bad ground or week positive connection could cause a high amperage load and burn things up prematurely. Mabye run a second ground to the back stud on the radio to make sure it is grounding out well. Glow plugs should not be effecting your stereo unless they take your voltage below 9v when they are on.

Check your voltage, you alternator should not be putting out much more than 14 volts. If more like 15-17 volts, could be damaging the radio and other sensitive electronics.

Make sure your speakers are not drawing down too much power or are shorted out. If the radio is struggling to feed a big aftermarket speaker or broken speaker that amperage draw could kill the radio's built in amp early.

Are you making good connections between the radio and your existing wiring. A twist and some electrical tape is not as good as solder connectors or crimp connectors.

If you have 5-65mph A/C and have the stero cranked up to 10 to overcome the wind noise, maybe you are blowing out the stereo over time. Perhaps add a amp.

If you use the truck sound system in order to be the DJ at a field party or at work, perhaps add a amp.

Lastly are you getting any water on the radio? Windshield leak, condensation, drips from the cooling ducts etc. Water is the enemy of electronics.

Maybe buy one from Amazon and get the Assurian warranty, if it dies you get a new one.

Let us know what you find out!

 

[Coffeehound]

Ok. I'll check out the volts and the grounds. I am using the old speakers and some work and some don't. They are old. Maybe they're drawing too much power or shorted out. I never thought of that. Thanks for the tips. I'll let you know what I find.

 

[snicklas]

It could also be a non-electrical issue... These trucks vibrate a lot, from the diesel engine to the somewhat "harsh" ride... Electronics don't lie vibration.... and may be failing due to that, not anything electrical.

 

[Coffeehound]

Yes, it does ride pretty rough. I drive about 24 miles a day of rough gravel roads about 4 months of the year during planting and harvest so that could be it too. I should have just left the factory radio in I guess or find a better/ more durable radio with Bluetooth. Any suggestions?

 

[Big Bart]

I have had several boats over the years. In rough water the boats take a pounding and so does the radio. I am guessing they also put some water resitant chemical over the electronics. Perhaps buy something like this Pyle one off Amazon and buy the extended warranty. If it dies Asurian gives you a new one or a check.

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Bluetoo...11&rnid=1248877011&rps=1&s=electronics&sr=1-2

 

[Tim McKay]

My son has been thru 4 Uniden CBs because the display going out. Its way past the warranty, but We just send in a history of the troubles, and they keep replacing them.
The capacitor will help voltage surges, but the best way to take car of that is to run a long wire to the battery + and - No need for a capacitor then. The battery acts like a giant capacitor. And it a clean source of power, no whine from the altenater. Check current draw and length of wire so you size the wire correctly.

 

[BeastMaster]

Check out "alternator load dump" and "inductive kickback".

When an alternator suddenly loses load ( glow plugs, starter motor ), they put out way too much voltage for a few milliseconds until the regulators sense an overvoltage condition and kill the armature current.

I've lost several electronic devices that did not have adequate spike overvoltage protection.

My IDI, being an old school diesel, with heavy DC amperage draws, switched by mechanical contacts, throws some whopper's during startup.

Has your electronics failed during engine startup? That's a dead giveaway.

 

[Fredrickson]

Not an answer to the root of the problem, but a work around..

Depending on your mobile data plan and the cell coverage where you are driving, maybe consider getting a cheap inexpensive, standalone bluetooth speaker.. and use that.

I have a little speaker that looks like a hockey puck with a usb charger connection.
I have that plugged into a lighter socket/phone charger thing to keep it operating,
and my phone playing an internet radio station, or mp3 files I have stored.

"High fidelity" is really an option..
but when it is on the dash, it drowns out the road noise, so it is good enough for me.

 

[Scotty4]

Our isuzu trooper's radio was not supported in the back so it would skip cds, tapes, and occasionally go out from bumps. Maybe yours needs a better mount?