Transfer Pump Inspection & bench bleeding
Is there a method for bench bleeding these pumps?
Yes, but before you do it, you can pull the transfer pump cover (bell shaped cover that the fuel enters into the IP) off to inspect the transfer pump blades.
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Remove this screw. Some pumps have Torx some Allen screws. Don't lose the little o-ring.
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3/4" wrench to spin the cover off. (Don't lose the o-ring) It will reveal the screen that pops onto the pressure regulator. Pull this off slowly and carefully. The regulator and screen should come off together. The regulator has a long pin that keeps everything aligned, so try not to move it around too much. You want the vanes and the circular part that they ride in to stay on the pump.
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Once the regulator is off you can see the vanes of the transfer pump. You can check to see that they slide freely in the slots in the rotor. Be careful tho. The vanes have little springs forcing them apart. These springs know how to fly and they know how to roll too! If you need to pull the vanes out pull them out in pairs. Keep track of which vane goes in which slot. There is an upper set and a lower set. The vanes are the same, its just the way they are placed in the slots.
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Do not touch the vanes with your fingers. Use Nitril or Latex gloves. Gently turn the rotor from the front of the pump to ensure the vanes are moving. You may want to make sure the vanes don't pop out. If you need to clean the vanes, use a mix of diesel and ATF. Assembly is the reverse of what you just did.
Here's how I bled mine before installing it:
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Once everything is cleaned up and reassembled. Clamp the IP in a vice of some kind of fixture. Install the fuel inlet line so the line is pointing up. Fill the line with your mix of diesel and ATF. Spin the front of the rotor clockwise. The fuel in the line should go down. Refill the line, spin, repeat. Eventually, the pump will start filling up and hopefully the rotor will get harder to turn to the point where it starts cogging. You may/should get fuel spitting out the injector lines soon.
If/when you do, congratulations! You have just bench bled your injection pump. I left the top cover off mine and drew off some fuel with a gravy baster when it started to get too full. Spinning faster is better. You can see my filling bottle in the background (old dish soap bottle).
Remember everything needs to be surgically clean. The fuel goes thru a 6 micron filter for a reason. The clearances in the IP are that fine.
Good luck!
I think there is an inlet filter tho no? I just reinstalled the pump with no lines on it and I'm getting a new inlet fitting from ace so I will try to bleed it one more time and then I am looking for a new IP I guess. At least I know how to pull an IP now. Anyone out there upgrade to a new moose pump and have a good old pump they'd like to get rid of
! I just spent 40hours trying to fix a 10 second problem. Does anyone know the correct fitting type or could you post a picture of the brass inlet fitting that threads into the end cap? I wonder if it has a ford part number...I'll start hunting. The pump is BRAND NEW so barring any stuck plungers farther inside this could be the solution. 
