What rpm to charge system
- Thread starter whalebus
- Start date
Devon Harley
Full Access Member
My truck was done by perfessinal at a shop while I stood an watched RPM's never changed once just a big fancy mechaine suckin an pumpin. Only reason to have them to it was so when it fails there problem there falut fix it. Recharging ac is a pricey lux. Easier to make someone else be liable an responsiable for it working or not I have life time war. On all ac parts an works war. For 2 years about 600 for it all. An that was every single part. Blower motor dash switch new pigtail new orfis tube condenser new lines an all. 1-800 radiator has good stuff we use it at our auto body shop often.
02x72
Full Access Member
I charge at idle, and have great results. Just did it in my '90 a few weeks ago that way and it blows at 40 degrees out the vents. I do like to submerge the Freon cans in hot water for a minute to raise their pressure and help get every last bit out.
rattleonby
Full Access Member
Yes at idle is the best way and the way I have always done every system. We have the bigger fancy machine at the shop I work at and its easy to use. If you're charging this system yourself I strongly suggest you dont over charge the capacity of your system. The specs for capacity are under the hood usually near or on the receiver/drier or on the hood or rad support. Changing your receiver drier is also strongly recommended as it may have moisture and/or junk in it that can greatly shorten if not end the life of your compressor if you haven't changed it already. Having the right equipment to recover old refrigerant and pull a vacuum down on the system with a pump is also required IF your changing your drier.
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
System level can change this as well...is the system empty and needs a full refill? Is it just need a couple ounces? Sometimes when then just need a couple ounces, it's hard to get it in there without a raise in RPM's. If it's completely empty, such as a repair and needing recharge, it's best to pull a vacuum and let it draw for an hour or so, this will pull out all the moisture and will make it real easy to charge...even with the engine off!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Both ways will work but NEVER FILL THRU THE HIGH PRESSURE PORT... That side can reach nearly 300 lbs and the cans will explode. Then freon is everywhere. Getting it in your eyes will blind you so wear a full face shield. That not only protects your eyes but it protects the pretty face too.
MUDKICKR
Full Access Member
are you charging with a machine or the crap hose and can method? being that i work on flat rate, i use a machine and most the time i charge with the engine off. but i guess the best way for ANYONE to CORRECTLY ANSWER your question is for you to tell us what method you are using to charge, what state the vehicle is in, and what has been done to the system.
If charging with a can, set at around 1200 rpms and do yourself a huge favour and get a box fan and set it in front of the condensor and kick it on high while charging . These 2 things will a
) draw refrigerant in a tad faster and b) lower the head pressure, which will help to balance the system and get it to an even charge sooner, especially if its REALLY hot out when it can take a long time to draw in refrigerant. and it gives you a much more accurate temp reading at the duct.
) draw refrigerant in a tad faster and b) lower the head pressure, which will help to balance the system and get it to an even charge sooner, especially if its REALLY hot out when it can take a long time to draw in refrigerant. and it gives you a much more accurate temp reading at the duct.
I have all ways been taught to do it at idle also but I have read a bunch of people say charge at higher rpm. I guess I am just over thinking it because I have done a/c work before but I cant get this truck to cooperate. The low side it around 35 psi an the high is 210 or so. I know about the condenser issues but every one seems to have there systems blowing between 40 an 50 with the stock stuff.
