What kind of boost/EGT's do YOU see?

[towcat]

Let's talk about pyro's and temps...

Yes, I am stealing from F350camper's intercooler title.
Here's why...
Today I put together three salvaged components to get a working pyro setup. Yes, I am a cheap SOB when it comes to my own junk.
After reading about goatboy's comments many threads ago, there's no magic to pyro probes. I had a ATS WG crossover that already had a thermocouple bung welded in on the driver's side and thermocouple installed. Knowing there two ranges of thermocouples marketed, I Installed a Bosch(AUS) gauge and wiring harness from a salvaged truck. Believe it or not, the whole darn thing works. The gauge registers pretty quick after startup and moves around resonably. Its not as responsive as I'd like it to be, but it will serve the purpose in the meantime.
Now here's the results....
around 930pm, 50deg temp, and low humidity.
idle on the driveway....150-200deg
pulling 8k GVW from sea level to the Santa Cruz summit 1800ft at 70mph the best I can get the temps to was 600-650deg
pulling 8k GVW at 95+mph at sea level(or thereabouts) 600deg.
pulling 8k GVW at 60-70mph at sea level(or thereabouts) 400deg
Max boost was no more than 6psi running 4psi nominal. Boost readings are taken post IC at the widest base of the intake feed bell.
I intentionally set my boost low due to two factors. One, I previously had no pyro installed on the truck. Two, the truck gets loaned out occasionally and I don't want the loanee's go racing with any challengers they encounter. It's already bad enough I drive like a nut, if they get caught in my truck doing the same theatrics, they're going straight to jail
So.....what kind of readings are you guys getting with your setups? Temp readouts and boost levels(if any) would really help build an informational database for all to see

 

[icanfixall]

The driveway idle is about what I see but the loaded temps seem low to me. Even if your pump is turned way down like you state. Something sounds off at the high side. Turning it up wont be the way I would check it either because if its way off on the high side and you turn it up there goes the motor. I'm sure you already know this. Its too bad you can't use one of those no touch laser heat guns when your pulling down the road and shooting the exhaust logs somewhere..

 

[reklund]

Heres my numbers, but keep in mind that my thermocouple is mounted in the drivers side exhaust manifold, BEFORE the turbo, and right outta the head!

Driveway idle, 350°-400°
Cruising flat ground, unloaded, 70 mph, 650°-700°
Pulling about 6k lbs, before DPS IP and Injectors, uphill on a good grade 1000°-1200° if I stuck my foot in it.

My truck ran 6-8psi max before the DPS IP and Injectors. Now, I can hit 10psi unloaded. I haven't had a load on it yet, but hopefully it won't get too hot...

Ryan

 

[lucky]

I think your high end is too low for what is happening. Here is what I get with stock Hypermax turbo 3" straight exhaust, C6 3.55. Two different situations.


Pushing a lot of wind (big, old heavy camper)on a 19,200km trip to Alaska and back. Ipso pyro/boost gauge. Pyro probe on up pipe to turbo, boost on intake hat. Idle needle shows just off zero. Flat level no wind 6-700. Slight headwind and little hills 9-1000. 7% long grades 1200 plus then back off.

Came home, turned back pump one flat, advanced timing a scribe line width.
Temps drop in all above situations with tops on 7% grades 1200 then a slow slow increase with foot in it pulling 25' 5er with lots of camping gear.

Good luck.

 

[towcat]

Heres my numbers, but keep in mind that my thermocouple is mounted in the drivers side exhaust manifold, BEFORE the turbo, and right outta the head!

Driveway idle, 350°-400°
Cruising flat ground, unloaded, 70 mph, 650°-700°
Pulling about 6k lbs, before DPS IP and Injectors, uphill on a good grade 1000°-1200° if I stuck my foot in it.

My truck ran 6-8psi max before the DPS IP and Injectors. Now, I can hit 10psi unloaded. I haven't had a load on it yet, but hopefully it won't get too hot...

Ryan

ryan-
did you have a chance to get numbers before you put in your IC? I am curious of the results. My pyro is mounted right below the driver's side manifold flange. It was pretty chilly yesterday evening and the truck liked the cold air
gary-
The IC has a profound effect on the EGT's. So, the high side will be off compared to a non-IC'd truck. That's the beauty behind running a IC. Your high side EGT's are more managable. BrianS used the truck for a weekend run to Placerville and it ruined him. He didn't have to drop a gear due to running out of power in the sierra foothills. Even up at Donner pass, the throttle is still very crisp and responsive.

 

[kcw12]

My temps was no more then 600 after the turbo though, i couldnt get it any higher, until a turned the pump up, then it went to 900, with a load on it. That was with an autometer gauge too.

 

[reklund]

Towcat-

The IC lowered my cruising temps about 200° loaded, and I haven't cut the vent holes in the bumper yet. This past summer I drove it to Ouray with the camper on it and my rockcrawler in tow, and it would almost melt itself down on the long grades. After the IC, it's cooler and has more hit on the highway. I haven't yet loaded it down since installing the DPS parts, but I suspect the EGT's should be the same.

IF you're considering an intercooler, DO IT. It's worth it in the driveability that you gain. You may recall I used an ATS kit and then modded it to work with my old non-wastegated setup. It can be done cheaper if you don't mind the fab work, but as busy as I am lately, I ponied up for the semi-bolt-in kit...

Ryan

 

[towcat]

Towcat-

The IC lowered my cruising temps about 200° loaded, and I haven't cut the vent holes in the bumper yet. This past summer I drove it to Ouray with the camper on it and my rockcrawler in tow, and it would almost melt itself down on the long grades. After the IC, it's cooler and has more hit on the highway. I haven't yet loaded it down since installing the DPS parts, but I suspect the EGT's should be the same.

IF you're considering an intercooler, DO IT. It's worth it in the driveability that you gain. You may recall I used an ATS kit and then modded it to work with my old non-wastegated setup. It can be done cheaper if you don't mind the fab work, but as busy as I am lately, I ponied up for the semi-bolt-in kit...

Ryan

ryan-
do a search for "let's talk intercoolers" thread.
I ponied up my $1300 for the ATS IC kit too a couple of years back. After owning a '85 Buick GN and a '87 Buick GN(no IC vs. IC) there was no doubt that the truck was going to get a IC. I got into diesels years ago to slow down my appetite for speed. It didn't work so good

 

[The Warden]

My thermocouple's in the turbo exhaust housing right where the up-pipe goes into it. I would have put it in right at the manifold, but ATS put a fitting in the housing special for the pyro, so I couldn't help myself. This is with an Isspro EV gauge that I purchased new about a year ago (best $100 I've ever spent, thanks Ken!)

I see 250° to 300° at idle, 450° to 550° on the highway empty, and I've only towed a few times since installing it. I got it right up to 1100° or so (didn't want to go any higher since the thermocouple's not right at the exhaust manifold) going up the I-5 near Mt. Shasta last August with a 4K boat in tow, and doing 35 to 40 mph (throttle floored in 3rd)...honestly, I wasn't all that impressed. If that trip hadn't convinced me previously, driving towcat's truck a few months ago completely sold me on getting an intercooler

 

[RedTruck]

Pickups Statistics

I. Engine
A. 6.9 Navistar Long block
B. Approximately 10,000 total miles on rebuild
C. Nothing fancy just a stock rebuild

II. Fuel System
A. Rebuilt Injection Pump
1. Calibrated for banks turbo w/o Intercooler
B. Stock Injectors
C. Stock Mechanical Lift Pump
D. Racor Filter/Separator
E. Stock Water Separator Removed
F. New Plumbing

III. Air Intake
A. Banks Sidewinder Turbo Kit
B. Ford PSD Intercooler

IV. Exhaust
A. Banks 3/3.5” Exhaust System And Muffler

V. Drive Train
A. Stock 4 Speed T-19
B. 3.55 Gears
C. 4 Wheel Drive
D. D60 Front Conversion
E. 1 Ton Overloads

Hauling Statistics

GVW - 24,660

I’ve got the old style cooling, so the water temperature would climb from town to town, but then drop off again going through town. Through town the water temp would drop to 190 °F. At highway speeds (55-60 mph) it would get close to that 220 °F mark. It doesn’t take much to get it cooled down. Outside air temp was 70 °F

Exhaust temp was really promising. I’ve been holding off on adjusting my fuel screw until I had some hard facts on exhaust temperature with the intercooler. EGT’s didn’t get above 800 °F driving, 200 °F idling. Driving along the flats EGT’s would be around 600 °F. Depending on the size of hill it would climb to 700 or 800 °F.


Note:
Since the above I have tightened up the waste gate, and maxed out my IP fuel screw. With these adjustments and the same load I am seeing 1000 °F max exhaust temps, 10 psi max boost, and the water temps are still a nuisance.


Paul

BTW: Good idea having this thread Calvin

 

[rubberfish]

400ish at idle.
900-1000 at 75mph with 8-12lbs
6% grade at 75mph is a challenge.

 

[reklund]

ryan-
do a search for "let's talk intercoolers" thread.
I ponied up my $1300 for the ATS IC kit too a couple of years back. After owning a '85 Buick GN and a '87 Buick GN(no IC vs. IC) there was no doubt that the truck was going to get a IC. I got into diesels years ago to slow down my appetite for speed. It didn't work so good

Towcat-

I recall the thread and knew you had the IC. I meant to word that part of my response as a general statement for those looking over this thread....sorry 'bout that

I've got experience with turbo'ed cars, and know about IC's too... I upgraded the IC on my Supra a while ago and couldn't believe the difference!

Ryan

 

[tuckerd1]

Last week, did a 75 mile test tow of my 20'GN with side bodies installed(4500# empty). Pulled a 3 mile grade (1 mile at near 13%) Started the pull at 50mph and lowest speed was 40mph. Max egt was 1050.

Today, Fan clutch is on. A 5"x24" hole cut into front bumper. On test run, set cruise on 65 and ran about 40 miles on cruise. Coolant temps ran 1/2 - 5/8 gauges with max 3/4 pulling a long skinny grade. 800 egt and a constant 5# boost. No fat grades this trip.

My probe is 2-3" from passenger exhaust manifold in turbo pipe.

Note, I'm running DPS turbo-cal IP and stage 1 inj. Lotta fuel!

 

[fsr7]

Hey all-
I've seen numbers posted in random posts here and there, but I'd like to get a collection of how everyones trucks with different mods come in on the old gauges.
My 7.3 - 10lbs max boost, up from 7 when the truck was stock - If I hammer on it empty, I hit 1200* at the end of 4th gear - about 65 mph - with a trail of pissed off bikers behind me.
I only ask because I'm kinda forming a collection of these trucks - I have nothing but good things to say about this motor. I'm throwing around the idea of playing with different turbos/IC/fuel set ups/etc. to see if I can build one to push 18+ lbs of boost and find out how long it lasts. Let me know.

 

[Agnem]

On the Moose Truck, coming back from the rally last year, I punch it when I was already going pretty fast, and the boost needle swung around like it was going into orbit. Scared the crap out of me, and so I let off real quick. So no. I don't really know what my max boost is. I don't think I could afford to know. Non-wastegated is the key to lots of boost.