What in gods name

BrianX128

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I've never really had to mess with the fuse box on my 85 F350, however my radio died and I crawled down there and saw a mess of jumper wires going various places from my previous owner. What fuses "should" be key on 12v sources? I'm wondering what sort of disaster some of these wires shoved in beside fuses are for and want to do some digging here. I have a fuse diagram for what it's for, but wasn't sure if there was one that showed which ones were key on vs always hot.
 

1mouse3

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This is the lay I see of your fuse panel and for radio 11 should be hot in run/acc and 8 should be the main power

Edit: dose your blower motor work?

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BrianX128

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Everything works, I'm just fearful of what the random jumper wires added in through the front of the fuses are doing if they're hot all the time and not just with the key on.
 

1mouse3

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These are wiring diagrams I find of what is going to that fuse panel


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Big Bart

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Nothing good comes of folks hacking at the factory wiring harness. Remember the good old aftermarket car alarms? How many headaches have those caused us over the years?(Wiring issues, parasidic drains, no-starts, broken wiring, re-wiring, and just anoying sirens.)

I still see folks hack there factory radio plug when for $20-30 you can buy a pigtail that plugs right in and then has wires to splice from. If needed a pre-fit plastic plate to hold the radio in the dash. Some even mark the pigtail leads with what it is. (IE - Power +, power -, memory power, peaker + left, speaker - left, etc.) You can wire up to the radio on the bench, walk over and plug into the factory connector. Way easier than trying to splice inside the dash.

It would be nice if the truck and car manufactures put a seperate fuse panel with 4-6 spots for relays for aftermarket stuff like radio's, chargers, brake controllers (They seem to be getting better on this one, sometimes just adding one at the factory.), after market guages, etc. Then at least you would know the prior owners did not need to hack the factory wiring and cause potential issues.(But some I guess would just do it anyhow.) Also leave a couple of holes in the firewall with rubber plugs we can use those to go through it.
 

1mouse3

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Nothing good comes of folks hacking at the factory wiring harness. Remember the good old aftermarket car alarms? How many headaches have those caused us over the years?(Wiring issues, parasidic drains, no-starts, broken wiring, re-wiring, and just anoying sirens.)

True there is some poor wiring that gets done and then there is poor wiring that gets stacked on other bad wiring that make a soup mess. There is also poor wiring that also gets done by the factor as well like with lights and blower motor that burns stuff out.


It would be nice if the truck and car manufactures put a seperate fuse panel with 4-6 spots for relays for aftermarket stuff like radio's, chargers, brake controllers (They seem to be getting better on this one, sometimes just adding one at the factory.), after market guages, etc. Then at least you would know the prior owners did not need to hack the factory wiring and cause potential issues.(But some I guess would just do it anyhow.) Also leave a couple of holes in the firewall with rubber plugs we can use those to go through it.

That would be nice.
 

1mouse3

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Well ya'all might not like the current state of my engine harness I have have been building, need to still go back into what past me did. It is a work in progress like adding thing like fans and charged where I wanted the glow plug relay, so the glow lead need routed different. I have started on a relay box for lift pump and lights, still need to wire that in. I also still need to go to the yard to get a fuseable link panel off a vw so can add fuses as well. It maybe a current desaster but progress is slow and will get done at some point.

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Cubey

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Nothing good comes of folks hacking at the factory wiring harness.
I had to very slightly on my RV. The fuse block spot for the HVAC blower motor was damaged and was weirdly blowing the fuse. I spliced in a blade fuse holder to fix it. No more blowing fuse. I had the fuse block unbolted while I was replacing the wiper motor, so it was a good time to fix it.

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Big Bart

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I had to very slightly on my RV. The fuse block spot for the HVAC blower motor was damaged and was weirdly blowing the fuse. I spliced in a blade fuse holder to fix it. No more blowing fuse. I had the fuse block unbolted while I was replacing the wiper motor, so it was a good time to fix it.

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Romex and wire nuts are always a nice touch! I also like the bolt fuse, I think those are rated at 200amps unless Chinese and then more like 100 amps.
 

Cubey

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Romex and wire nuts are always a nice touch! I also like the bolt fuse, I think those are rated at 200amps unless Chinese and then more like 100 amps.
The wire nuts were done by a previous owner but they are holding so I left them alone. The romex is what feeds the power to the backlight for the manifold pressure gauge from when the ATS 085 was installed way back in 1985, I'm guessing.
 
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