Water pump install advice needed sooner than later.

larson

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Hey guys im ready to install my new water pump. Surfaces are all super clean.
The pump came with a new paper gasket.
Is that gasket enough alone or should i add any rtv to it before i install?
I know to use thread sealant on the bolts
Etc.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Is RTV needed? No. I like to use a very thin layer on both sides of the gasket because the gasket comes off easier the next time that you remove it. It doesn't get stuck to the cover that way. I also like to take a flat file and gently run it over the sealing surfaces in order to remove any possible burrs.
 

larson

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Is RTV needed? No. I like to use a very thin layer on both sides of the gasket because the gasket comes off easier the next time that you remove it. It doesn't get stuck to the cover that way. I also like to take a flat file and gently run it over the sealing surfaces in order to remove any possible burrs.

Thank you very much. Installing now.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You're welcome. I ALWAYS recommend the deburring. I had a burr make a water pump leak one time so I had to pull it back off and remove the burrs and then reinstall it. It's quite a bit harder to do on a 6.2 Chevy (where I had it happen) than it is on one of our engines.
 

chris142

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Some come with 2 new bolts. You must use those in the top 2 holes. Make sure to put a sealer on the threads of all the bolts to keep oil from wicking up them.
 

Golden Helmet

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Some come with 2 new bolts. You must use those in the top 2 holes. Make sure to put a sealer on the threads of all the bolts to keep oil from wicking up them.
Only the 4 center bolts need RTV, the rest of the bolts don't see oil or coolant.

@ OP: i used Aviation Form-a-gasket on both sides of my water pump gasket, and grey RTV for the 4 center bolts. Compare your old 4 center bolts to the 4 new ones, if the new ones are a different size, use the new bolts. You can also use the bolts to guide the pump in to place on the engine, just stick 2 bolts through the pump and get them started, then just push the pump against the engine.

Keep track of your bolts, you have the 4 center bolts which are the most critical to get right, but i think the others might vary in length too.

Biggest warning: USE A TORQUE WRENCH AND BE GENTLE. If you over tighten the 4 center bolts by just a little bit, the threaded retaining nut on the inside of the timing cover will snap off, and you have a chunk of metal inside your engine. When the wrench clicks, do NOT add "a little extra" torque after the click.
 

larson

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Why do i jave to use the 2 new bolts that came with it?
Its already installed with the oem bolts all covered in sealant. I can swap them out no big deal.
 

Golden Helmet

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Some new pump bodies have different heights where the bolts go in, so if you re-use the old long bolts on a short housing, they'll be too long and the ends of the bolts will grind against the timing gear inside your engine. Or if that pump was already done before, it may have short bolts and your new one needs long bolts. That's why all the pumps come with the bolts, they all ship with either long or short bolts depending on what it needs. Mine didn't need new bolts either but i still double checked before installing.

If you don't feel like the center bolts were bottoming out, and you don't hear any new noises, you're probably ok. It's just good to be aware of where the rookie traps are on these things. Nobody likes opening their engine because they over torqued one of those bolts, for example :D
 

larson

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The pump i bought only came with 2 new short bolts. Thats why i opted out on using them. They were identical to the other short oem bolts.
Everything felt great when i tightened all of them down. I made a template to place the bolts as i removed them so they went back into the same location.
I used red locktight on the fan clutch nut and jamed a wrench behind the water pump pully and alt. bracket and put a 4ft cheater pipe on a pipe wrench i had to tighten the big ass nut. I hope it was enough! I bent the hell out of the wrench i was using to stop the pully from moving.
 

TNBrett

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The pump i bought only came with 2 new short bolts. Thats why i opted out on using them. They were identical to the other short oem bolts.
Everything felt great when i tightened all of them down. I made a template to place the bolts as i removed them so they went back into the same location.
I used red locktight on the fan clutch nut and jamed a wrench behind the water pump pully and alt. bracket and put a 4ft cheater pipe on a pipe wrench i had to tighten the big ass nut. I hope it was enough! I bent the hell out of the wrench i was using to stop the pully from moving.
I feel sorry for the next guy who has to take that fan off. I don’t think you’ll have to worry about it coming off of there.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I feel sorry for the next guy who has to take that fan off. I don’t think you’ll have to worry about it coming off of there.
I agree. I HATE using any thread locker on those threads. When I was R&Ring these engines for a living, I ran into two fans that had this done. I had to turn the nuts all the way off by using a big pair of channel lock pliers after I had broken it loose. Both just fell off when they got to the end of the threads. They never did get loose enough to spin off by hand like they should. They certainly did not go back on with anything on the threads. The most that I'd do if using Loc Tite would be to use blue. NEVER red.
 

540milotalon

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They make the threads left handed so they don’t loosen up.

between me, my kids and other family members we have a LOT of these trucks and I have never seen a fan spin the opposite way and come off.

just saying
 

larson

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Well i was worried about it coming off after reading about the whole wp swap.
I just sold the truck to my dad so he has a pickup to use to when ever he needs.
Unfortunately i will always be the mechanic when it needs work done.

But thanks for everyone's help.
 

frankenwrench

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They make the threads left handed so they don’t loosen up.

between me, my kids and other family members we have a LOT of these trucks and I have never seen a fan spin the opposite way and come off.

just saying
I have many of these trucks myself and everyone has spun off and destroyed a radiator as soon as I killed the engine after applying massive amounts of torque to ensure that it was afixed to the water pump. I'm not implying that everyone has to do things as I do, as my experiences May differ from yours, but I ALWAYS apply blue loctite. Never have to fight too much getting them off either.
 

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