urgent: need a pair of factory 4x4 lift blocks
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
Greg, these are tough to come by in any type of shape. I had a thread back a while ago on it. I think I linked it in my build thread. I ordered a set of procomp blocks that were for a newer truck. The blocks fit fine but they have a taper to them that twists the pinion upward. Really shouldn't hurt anything and straightening the driveline angle I don't think will hurt anything. Just a thought. Might be cheaper than used blocks shipped.
been looking but i cant find the blocks seperate. And a kit with bolts is liek 130 bucks for 4" and havent found a 3".
I have 1 3.5" block from the yard but the other was no where to be found
theyre no category for them on car-part.com unfortunately.
I have 1 3.5" block from the yard but the other was no where to be found
theyre no category for them on car-part.com unfortunately.
These are nice and simple if you can't find a set.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showpost.php?p=811455
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showpost.php?p=811455
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
How soon do ya need em? I've got a pair...an EXTRA pair off white elephant floating around here and would have to ahem...dig them up from within the mess of stock I got.
No idea on price but I'm betting they may fit into a flat rate Postal Box... I will see if I can find em. Make me a fair offer and they be yers...
No idea on price but I'm betting they may fit into a flat rate Postal Box...
I will see if I can find em. Make me a fair offer and they be yers...honestly I have no idea what theyre worth, just know that 60 bucks for is crazy (cheapest from dealer i found) and i cant find any without u bolts online.
New u bolts with hardware are 11 bucks a pop from rock auto, so if I can get my whole assembly for like 70 or under Im ok with that
and you tell ME a price. Im lookin out for my bottom line, so Id like to get a whole engine for like 20 bucks if i could you know what I mean. Just let me know what you would like for them sir.
New u bolts with hardware are 11 bucks a pop from rock auto, so if I can get my whole assembly for like 70 or under Im ok with that
and you tell ME a price. Im lookin out for my bottom line, so Id like to get a whole engine for like 20 bucks if i could you know what I mean. Just let me know what you would like for them sir.
mblaney
Full Access Member
All the dimensions for the stock I used are in that thread; you might do well to have a shop cut and weld some up. If you want to save some work / time / money you could eliminate the bump stops. Three pieces of steel, one hole, one bump.
I did some research on the whole angle block thing - your new blocks should be the same angle as your old ones. If they are parallel make your new ones the same. The only time you have to introduce an angled block is if you have created an angle (say by adding an extended shackle). The pinion shaft should be parallel to the transmission output shaft.
Think of a tractor 3 point hitch; when you raise or lower your attachments (snow blower... or a bush hog for you guys that don't know what a snow blower is) the pto on the tractor doesn't move - and the attachment gearbox simply moves straight up and down.
I think im just going to make some if i dont find one or a pair for a reasonable cost. I dont have any lift blocks right now as im cobbling together a rolling 06 chassis. The one factory block i sniped does have a small taper to it so I will mimick that and make my own.
I got a plasma cutter, tons of cutoffs and a few welders, pretty sur ei could order some raw material thru work as well.
I got a plasma cutter, tons of cutoffs and a few welders, pretty sur ei could order some raw material thru work as well.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Should be simple enough to make. A 1/2" plate top and bottom with a chunk of rectangle tube between, cut to the right angle. A bolt the right size for center pin welded sticking thru the bottom plate before assembly.
Probably take me twenty minutes at my welding shop lol
Probably take me twenty minutes at my welding shop lol
towcat
Full Access Member
if you don't mind, I'd like to "borrow" this thread for my for sale ad.
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Are you saying you have BLOCKS?if you don't mind, I'd like to "borrow" this thread for my for sale ad.
or what 
towcat
Full Access Member
only sold along with a complete D60 conversion kit.Are you saying you have BLOCKS?
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?59999-1994-Dana-60-quot-conversion-kit
Interesting. Here are my thoughts on this. Take them for what they are worth and please don't take this as me trying to start an argument or anything. Just having a friendly conversation.
Back in the day, we used to tip the axle up a little in the pulling trucks to straighten the driveline as much as possible to take the twisting strain out of the u-joint. Granted that's an extreme case but to my recollection, we never broke a universal joint either.
In my mind, the worst that could happen is either it causes a vibration or wipe out the rear u-joint faster. The axle twists up (axle wrap) under acceleration and the angle changes with load as well so that dimension of movement has to be accounted for by the universal joint. The same thing with your brush hog analogy. Most people run a chain for the third link so that if you hit something and the mower jumps up in the air it doesn't bend anything. It also causes a change in driveline angle of the gear case relative to the pto. I don't think it's necessarily a requirement that the gear case is parallel to the pto but most implements are designed that way probably out of convenience.
The only question in my mind really with the angled block is will it cause some weird vibration as the axle travels. Hopefully I will find that out later this fall. The only other possible problem I can see is keeping grease to the pinion bearing but I think the angle is small enough that won't be an issue either given the height of the fill plug.
Sorry for the detour Greg.
