Unbelievable luck

BrianX128

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So about 4 or 5 months ago the concentric slave cylinder exploded in my m5od in my winter beater F150, it had 300k miles and was a rust bucket so whatever..

Around rally time this summer I found out my dual mass flywheel in my 7.3 was grenading. I missed the rally, and the truck is still in my buddies shop because all the rear mounting tabs were busted off the trans entirely. Might have it back together in a week or two but I have no confidence anything is going to work right with my smf conversion after some horror stories I've read lately combined with my luck.

Speaking of, this was my ride home in my 6.9 tonight [T19 4x4]

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Considering I don't have the ability to drop a transmission properly in my garage and my one friend who does has my ripped apart 7.3 sitting in it, I am absolutely screwed. I'll get to drive the rest of winter with either my high school days cavalier, or be forced to take my grandfathers passed down never seen snow F150 out. I'd sooner drive the 7.3 once its back together assuming that doesn't turn into a disaster. It probably will.

I have the absolute worst luck with transmissions lately, and stuff that just plain is stuff I can't fix. I'd rather have all my water pumps and radiators leak than this. I literally can't do anything about it.

I'm assuming my throw out bearing is gouged beyond belief, and the fork is holding it at an angle when it makes that noise. I really don't know, sometimes now I could shift and it would totally disappear noise wise, but usually it does that the whole way home. Sometimes the shift was so hard it felt like the fork was gonna slip over the tob or something like it was fighting it but when it shifts right still its smooth as butter and the pedal is very easy to push.

I'd pull the fork and look inside for better light on the situation but I have no idea how to pull the fork, I'm nervous to do so, and I don't really know what I'd be looking for.

I'm so fed up with this luck lately it's making me want to just say to hell with it and get a new car. I was already gonna trash the old straight six [hank in sig the one with the m5od] to make it easier to properly care for the two idis and my grandpas old truck, now if I have to pull the trans [pay someone else to do it] to swap the throw out bearing and what not, its just gonna be one more straw making me not want to do this anymore..

And before anyone thinks I'm complaining just because one thing happened, just on the 6.9 alone in not quite even one year yet I had my mechanical fuel pump leak fuel in the crankcase, my ip leaked fuel in the crankcase to the point the truck ran away on itself a few times [videos on my YouTube] I got leaking injectors at the threads with my brand new pump I had to warranty, a rouge wire grounded out and shut my truck off on the highway, I hit a deer, my whole exhaust fell off, and now this. Just with this truck.

Even if I buy a new car, I'm a firm believer with my luck it would get recalled or something. I need a horse.
 

Runningaford

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No worries, age will harden you into knowing it's all about getting back up, and doing it again.... :bail
 

chillman88

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I feel you bud. I get it. Wish I was close enough to help. I'd say it can't get worse.... But I've learned the hard way to know better.
 

Thewespaul

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That’s rough Brian, I hope the 7.3 gets back on the road soon. Let me know if I can be any help!
 

BrianX128

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What is the best way to remove the shifting fork on the t19s so I can peek in there and wiggle the throw out bearing around and see if its wrecked? I've definitely never done this before.
 

BrianX128

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Fo...3-8b3e-4353-8f07-e54ba377e72a&epid=1517841139

I just bought this off Ebay. I'm guessing mine ran dry and started sticking to the point where that awful screeching is it dragging on either the pressure plate fingers or the clutch fork itself.

If anyone could give me some pointers on removing the clutch fork I'd like to take a peek in there before I move forward trying to fix it.
 

Thewespaul

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Brian I’ll get you some pictures of the manual so you can see how to get the fork out. This is a bullnose t19 correct?
 

BrianX128

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Yep. I read that once you pop the slave cylinder out it basically pulls straight out. But that sounds too easy.

I also messaged a guy local to me who has this truck for sale:

https://morgantown.craigslist.org/cto/d/fayette-city-1993-ford-250-ext-cab-4x4/6787067766.html

It's not an idi, nor is it an auto so my fiance could drive it but it is around 3500, he needs rid of it as he has a baby on the way, and its 100k miles which isn't awful. I may go look at it this week so I have something to drive that is 4x4 this winter.

Hank in my sig is all but dead. I'm getting the alcoa's off it this week and basically putting it for sale on craigslist for idk.. 1000.. 500$ to get rid of it. Hopefully someone will take it, I just want it gone. Dana 44, engine, trans and transfer case should be worth 500$ before they scrap it.

Then hopefully my 7.3 will be back from my buddies with the fresh smf conversion but still 2 wheel drive it's the summer cruiser and hauler for me.

Then maybe I can convince my same friend to help me pull the trans and transfer case back to put a new throw out bearing in this 6.9 assuming it isn't destroyed but that requires driving [limping] it to his house.

Man. This sucks. What awful timing. I was taking everything in stride, I knew "hank" had well outlived his life, as had my dual mass flywheel in my 7.3 but the 6.9 stuff is just the straw that is breaking my back.
 

BrianX128

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I took the boot off. It looks like it's all junk inside. Pressure plate looks like the fingers all wanna bend and start snapping off.

Not sure what the plan is. The engine runs perfectly, the body though its ugly and two colors has no rust and the frame has no rust [even for non salt belt standards] but if the trans is going to come out it might as well get a new everything so I never have to do this again with it.

The real problem is going to be getting it there. The clutch still pushes ok, I'd have to drive it 22 miles to my buddies shop it's not possible to tow it with where he lives a tow truck would never be able to make the turns neccessary to get there and idk if this guy would even do it.

I wish I didnt have a permanently ruined arm from baseball. I can't lift my left arm above my head from tearing my rotator cuff, the arm just doesn't have strength like that and I'm a lefty so I have two mostly useless arms.
 

Thewespaul

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I’ll get those pictures for you this evening Brian, I’m out of pocket for a few more hours. To me it sounds like your best bet is gonna be expensive, but If I couldn’t get it towed to the friends house, and I can’t drive it there, then I would have it towed to a reputable shop and just pay to get it done. A t19 is super easy to pull and the clutch is cheap, I’ll look around when I’m back at the shop for any good t19 clutch setups in the used bin.
 

laserjock

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There is no way I’d pull that trans and not put a full kit in it. You’ve already done all the work at that point it’s just a few extra bucks.

Clutches are one of those do it once and be done with it jobs. Sorry your vehicles are deciding to revolt.

I may have missed it but unless you are hard up for a truck I’d stay away from the CL one you posted. 351 really likes gas. The body looks really rough to me. I bet the black stripe is hiding rot at the cab corners. You can see in the one picture it was bondoed up poorly on the bed corner at the bumper. That’s not really a normal rust spot in my experience so that tells me there’s a probably a lot of ugly hiding there. It’s definitely not a 3600 truck even in that region.
 

BrianX128

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Yeah I'm just gonna stay away from another truck for now. I've found some that were nice but they are all sticks and I'd like to own one auto in case my fiance ever needs to drive something other than her suv.

My cavalier goes pretty good in snow and I'm getting my 7.3 back this weekend.. in a true emergency "fred" is 4 wheel drive so I could take it though I'd hate to take it in the snow.
 
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DrCharles

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I just paid a local shop (that actually knows a bit about IDI's) $400 labor to install my Luk 07225 kit and a new rear main seal. If you can get "Hank" for $400 that'd be a steal ;)
 

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