ujoint torque

[RLDSL]

Does anyone have the proper torque value handy for a 92 f350 ujoint cap screws?

Thanks-------Robert

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Since you brought that up - may I add another question? Are the U-joints at the front and rear of the driveshaft the same for a 2wd truck with a slushbox?

 

[Devilish]

Since you brought that up - may I add another question? Are the U-joints at the front and rear of the driveshaft the same for a 2wd truck with a slushbox?

look here:
http://www.power-21.com/federalmogulpower21i/

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Cool, thanks! Now, which one is better greaseble or non-greasable? I've always been told that non-greasable are stronger...

 

[Devilish]

super strength. I may be wrong but I truly think greasables are better because what happens to the u-joint when the grease dries out?

 

[TLBREWER]

Didn't know there was a torque value. I always just torque 'em good-n-tight.

Tom

 

[oldmisterbill]

I like a drop of blue locktite. I'm sorry I don't know what the torque is,but i snug them up pretty well.

 

[Agnem]

All they do is hold the cap on. They don't need to be super tight.

 

[RLDSL]

Cool, thanks! Now, which one is better greaseble or non-greasable? I've always been told that non-greasable are stronger...

Greasable much better. The strength is in the material that the trunion is made out of. they went non greasable for OEM to save a few pennies at the factory and to create yet another item that would poop out and have to be serviced at about 75 thousand miles instead of just pumping grease in at every oil change and driveing on the things for hundreds of thousands of miles. Whay they even sell non greasable in the aftermarket is beyond me ( gee it failed perfectly well the first time, let's put another one in

 

[riotwarrior]

If both a greasable and non greasable ujoint are in question made of same material, then Technically a NON greasable u joint should have a greater yeild strength due to the fact that there is no hole bored into the Trunion diagonally thus removing material and causing a stress riser.

Also when using the greasable type, if the nipple is located in a way where it is under compression it is considerablly stronger than when under tension as under tension the u joint is trying to tear itself in two and that grease nipple is a stress riser which will cause failure.

JM2CW lernt me from dad who gonduntons of shafts with nary problem!

Oh for what it's worth...I use a greaseable unit under compression ALWAYS..unless it's completely unavailable to me.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

OK, I'll get the greasable ones then. And yeah, I know about how the fitting needs to be in compression, I'll make darn sure of that. One last question - can I just pull the yoke off the trans together with the driveshaft, or will that cause an Exxon Valdez in my driveway?

 

[RLDSL]

OK, I'll get the greasable ones then. And yeah, I know about how the fitting needs to be in compression, I'll make darn sure of that. One last question - can I just pull the yoke off the trans together with the driveshaft, or will that cause an Exxon Valdez in my driveway?

If that's an automatic, you can pull it out, but it'll be a gusher. you can cet a tailshaft plug from most parts stores or you can get one here from HF for about $4 . you just pull the shaft out and real quick shove that thing in and you won't make too big a mess.

 

[Devilish]

Park the truck downhill and/or jack up the rear end a bit to cut down the spillage. Cover the tail shaft opening with something if it's windy or if your driveline work will take long.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yea, tis a shlushbox - Exxon Valdez it is then, lol. I'll see if I can grab one of these tailshaft plugs, then I'll do what Devilish suggested with jacking up the truck high in the rear, hopefully this should minimize the spillage... And I'll be pulling the yoke cause I plan on redoing both U-joints, no sense in replacing just one only to have the other one fail a few thousand miles later.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Well, tis done - not a drop of ATF spilled either. My truck is already about 2" higher in the rear than it should be cause of the springs, so I just jacked it up another 3-4" and pulled the shaft and all was good. Too bad I put the rear U-joint the wrong way, the grease fitting is in compression like it should be when the shaft is turning, but the nipple is facing the pinion yoke so if I wanna grease it I gotta loosen the braces and pull the shaft like 1/2" forward - in retrospect, I guess I could have pulled all 4 caps off the U-joint trunion and swapped them around to have it face the other way, but oh well, live and learn.

Edit: oh yeah, forgot to mention, the darn pinion nut was loose too, resulting in the yoke having some slop, tis a miracle no splines got stripped...