Uhaul truck?

Travis91

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I have been considering saving up to buy a diesel truck as my first disel to play around with and use for work, hauling scrap metal and towing horse and farm trailers. ive been looking at the F350s that uhaul puts up for sale as a cab chassis and having a flatbed built for it( cheap welder in town that i know) so id have a heavy duty f350 with a 14ft flat bed. Does anyone have experience with these? how is the fuel mileage.
 

Diesel JD

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Well expect the following: it will have been well maintained, fluid changes and what not. If it's a 7.3 you might want to check good for SCAs in the coolant. It probably has also been rode hard and put away wet many many times, certainly not babied. Having said that, if the SCAs check out, it starts and runs and doesn't have excessive blowby out the filler neck or any scary noises I'd probably buy it if the price was right. As far as fuel mileage, I'm guessing this will be a C6 or E4OD with 4.10s since it was a moving truck so don't expect miracles. If you can run a cheap fuel cocktail or be happy with 12 mpg at 4.25/gallon diesel I'd say you won't be disappointed and might even be pleasantly surprised, otherwise you might be upset. My 2 bits take it for what it's worth.
 

Travis91

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could the rear end gears be changed out to be a higher gear? or a manual transmission swapped in.. what is blowby? and what are scas.
 

BlueOvalBud

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Who said they came with 4.56 gears? I would have thought 4.10's myself...:dunno

I say go for it! And if you want to get funky, you could swap out the duallys for singles like I did.
Mine is a standard long wheeblase dually F350 chassis. It's got 11' from the back of the cab to the end of the frame.
I've measured a couple F350 box trucks (Like U-Haul's) and they seem to have the same frame as me, but hte back 3' they have a smaller C-Channel that slides into the original truck frame. That's how they get the extra 3' of length.
So, if the Uhaul truck you check out has 11' from the back of the cab to the end of the frame...then it would be the same as mine...and it would limit you to an 11' or 12' flatbed.

You can swap the auto out for a manual.
If you want a 4 speed, then you'll need a diesel-specific bellhousing from an 83-86 F250/F350.
If you want a 5 speed with Overdrive, then look for a ZF5 from an 87-97 Ford F250/F350/F-Superduty with a DIESEL.
Then you'll need a pedal assembly from a truck of the same body style. F150/F250/F350/F-Superduty all share the same cab and pedals.
You'll need to mount a clutch master cylinder on the firewall and run the hose down tot he slave cylinder on the transmission.

If I hadn't found my truck, that's the route I was going to take.

OH, another thing. If you're not aware, the 80-86 F350 long wheelbase trucks have a 10k GVW. The 1980-1986 F350 standard wheelbase dually have a 11k GVW. All the 87+ F350's have an 11k GVW.
This is important in case your state requires a DOT inspection. If so, the truck needs to be in perfect condition.
 

smolkin

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My friend has '90 ex-Uhaul truck, it's a bit tired but it was well-maintained, and had service records. It has 7.3 /c-6/4.10 DRW and a full box, they even included the loading ramp. He's been running it on B100 and SVO for 2 years with only the usual expected problems (leaking o-rings and fuel lines). It is slower than molasses in July in Antarctica and gets 10-12 mpg. Also, it still has the 2800 governor and the red light/ buzzer that comes on if you exceed 55mph...he won't take it off b/c he thinks it's hilarious.

Actually, I think it's well suited for alternative fuels, even though it has a single tank, it's sturdy and has a better fuel pickup/sender. Much easier to work on than a regular F-series.

e: come to think of it, maybe it is a 4.56
 

Travis91

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we dont have any inspections what so ever. and the Uhual site lists them aas 4.56. do you have more pics of your truck.
 

Diesel JD

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You are correct on all counts Travis. I learned most everything I know on IDIs and diesels generally here and I got into the diesel game when I was 22. I still have a lot to learn. So here's the deal on the gear swap, it will work and you can go as high as 3.55 or even 3.31 maybe which is a good ratio for on the highway, but you'll give up some of your low end grunt. That might be okay depending on if you add a turbo and what transmission you have or if you can add an auxillary transmission, how heavy you want to load this thing etc. The gears are pretty cheap, but you will either have to know how to do the install yourself or know someone who'll do it cheap or it'll bankrupt you in labor charges. An incorrect install can cause accelerated wear on your rear end and bad operating noises. A full on rear end swap may be easier and more cost effective. A transmission swap is pretty routine here, but it can get expensive. You'll need to be able to afford to have it down for a few days at minimum and have all the parts. The hardest part is installing the hydraulics for the master/slave cyls or if you want to be a contrarian like me either designing and building or having someone else make you a mechanical linkage. I iike the old 4 speed boxes because you can grab one from behind a gasser and simply swap out the bellhousing for a diesel. The ZF 5 is much better for fuel economy but it is a one piece casting and diesel or gas specific. You can redrill a 460 bell for a diesel or vice versal, but that's an advanced project and that transmission is not cheap. On the other hand, top gear on a 4 speed is 1:1 so unless you have the cash for a GV overdrive or similar or the fab skills to install a Mitchell or Brownie box auxillary you'll probably under perform in the fuel economy game. They are pretty tough to destroy though. As far as the blowby goes, it goes with the territory of a high compression engine like a diesel, but if it's extreme it's a sign that the engine has seen better days or maybe has a hole in a piston or two if it's to the tune of one or more pistons, one little puff for each is normal. Look for "steam" rising out of the filler neck like a tea kettle, that's normal, epecially if it goes away when you rev the engine past idle. Puffing like a freight train means maybe you should walk away unless it's cheap and you would still be happy with your purchase if you had to replace the engine in the near future. The SCAs I mentioned are critical with the 7.3s because they are a bored 6.9 and the cylinder walls are a little on the thin side compared to what they should be. IH knew about this problem and it was usually ok if the cooling system was maintained with the proper low silicate coolant and diesel/supplemental coolant additives or a diesel rated ELC, but Ford started making 7.3s in 1988 and didn't include this useful bit of info in the diesel owner's supplement until around 1992 when it was too late for a lot of engines. It's probably not a big worry if you buy a truck from a reputable fleet company like Uhaul or a hardcore diesel enthusiast you might find here, but test, don't guess. Lastly, the WMO/WVO fuels are attractive because of high diesel prices, but you need to be sure you have a supply ahead of your needs and before you commit to buying the truck in case that is the only way you can afford to put fuel in it, if you can afford pump fuel you might just not worry about it and work on it as time permits. I burn homebrew biodiesel but it is a lot of work and not without it's difficulties, but I really enjoy it. It gives me a feeling of energy independence but I know if diesel gets really high, none of that WVO supply is really secure and I may be buying WVO for a hefty price and not be much better off than if I was buying pump fuel. Also the glycerine disposal is a potential issue. WVO/SVO burning systems work but you have to put a lot of thought into the design and they work a lot better for vehicles that are worked hard and rarely taken on short trips. DD do best on pump fuel or biodiesel. WMO the jury is still out on it, but it can get you to work/school in a pinch and keep your truck on the road in a fuel crisis, that much is for sure. At what cost is the thing that is up for debate. Whew, sorry to be so long winded but really hope I could help you some.
 

Diesel JD

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Smolkin, it sounds like your friend's truck is an IDI in an IH S1600 or S1900. Those probably have different transmissions and gear ratios, 4.56 sounds about right. Probably has some sort of medium duty 5 speed where 1st is granny low and 5th is 1:1 or a 3 speed Allison automatic where top gear is 1:1...yes?
 

Travis91

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Thanks for the info.. when you say filler neck are you referring to the motor oil fill? and you still didnt explain what SCA is..so what is it?

and i have a mechanic friend that does work dirt cheap..
 

smolkin

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Smolkin, it sounds like your friend's truck is an IDI in an IH S1600 or S1900. Those probably have different transmissions and gear ratios, 4.56 sounds about right. Probably has some sort of medium duty 5 speed where 1st is granny low and 5th is 1:1 or a 3 speed Allison automatic where top gear is 1:1...yes?

haha, you would think, but...no. It's a F-series cab, but the engine is all International...maybe it was a factory replacement? It's just really slow, the 55-mph buzzer is almost a joke in itself! It could use a fuel system overhaul though...records showed a "new" IP a few years back, but injectors may be original.

OP, I say go for it but remember that you'll have some upgrade work to do, esp. if you want to run alt. fuels.
 

Diesel JD

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Travis, SCA is nitrite only in DCA2/Wixcool/NapaKool/ some old Caterpillar SCAs and DCA4(nitrite and molydbate) cavitation happens when the piston fires there is so much force that it contracts and expands ever so slightly. Water bubbles form and collapse on the water side of the cylinder liner. Over time this erodes the cylinder liner by pitting it away. The best way I can describe SCAs is that they are like a sacrificial zinc anode on a boat, that is they get eroded away instead of the cylinder liner. Consequently you have to keep an eye on them by testing for them every few months or adding them whenever you drain and fill your coolant system.
 

nsjames

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I just bought one to convert to RV/toterhome for my Jeep in the 26' S1600 flavor.

Go prepared to make it run, I had to bleed the whole injection systme in the parkling lot.

They will take way less than what they list. I offered 2 grand and they snapped it up.

Go on the uhaul website to check the maintenance records. Contact them via the website to get detailed records for any truck you're particularly interested in.

Uhaul says 4.33 in the rears, but you'd be wise the check. I suspect mine is deeper as the speedo is wrong and I tach out at 62.

go read these for a bucnh of technical info:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=808421
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=480067
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=487272
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=691445

it's a TON of truck for the money. If you want to use it to haul scrap, sell the box, bob the frame and use the 18,000 GVW one. The mileage is probably going to be about the same if you ditch the box on the back. The box weighs 3500 lbs, so without the box and a decently built flatbed you aoulc put nearly 10K pounds on the back.
 
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