1989 S1600 x Uhaul truck 7.3 IDI

[ttman4]

to take a picture of the ROUND hole. GULP? How did that slot get in there?

Thanks for everyone's persistence and especially patience.

The slots got put in there other nite by the aliens while you asleep.... they everywhere watching us!

Are you saying that UHaul modifies or changed the mounting flange on the IP, the one which mounts to the timing gear, that they modified it so the timing could not be changed?

I've been running a UHaul IP for a number of years. I guess I was one of the lucky ones who got a good one. Mine is fully adjustable, as much so as a normal IP.

@hrsitton got it figured out, but as far as UHaul & what it worth, I have a running '94 UHaul 7.3 running great. Have another '88 UHaul 7.3 running but only cab & frame, no box, another about '86 or '87 UHaul 6.9 supposedly a runner engine. Got total of 4 UHaul 6.9 & 7.3 engines.
Got lots of plans for my IDI's but trying get my 40x64 shop built & finished!!
But I'm still on the watch for aliens....

 

[IDIBRONCO]

But you have no proof the rebuilder has the pump set too high. I say this because smoke issues can also be related to timing.

I agree with this and would try the timing first. If that doesn't work, then try to adjust the fuel. I got myself on this several years ago. The engine that I had in my first 85 F250 ran just fine empty. Under a load, not even a heavy one, it felt low on power and I got quite a bit of black smoke out of the exhaust. My thinking was "black smoke = too much fuel" so I turned the fuel back. It never did run any better in fact it felt worse. The smoke really didn't go away either. After I wrecked that truck, I realized that it was probably the timing, not the amount of fuel.
To answer your question, as the pump wears, the timing retards so you want to try advancing the timing.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

but as far as UHaul & what it worth, I have a running '94 UHaul 7.3 running great. Have another '88 UHaul 7.3 running but only cab & frame, no box, another about '86 or '87 UHaul 6.9 supposedly a runner engine. Got total of 4 UHaul 6.9 & 7.3 engines.

If I had one of those complete, at this point, I'd turn one into a toy hauler/camper.

 

[hrsitton]

filling their fuel filter with ATF

ATF better than Seafoam?

BTW, the rebuilder is not a favorite on OilBurners. The barrel in mine had a groove cut in it and they sourced an entirely different IP. Charged $100 extra as my model was hard to find. Said just bolt it on it'd be fine. Not.

 

[TygreII]

There's more oil in ATF, so more lubricating. I'll assume that Seafoam has more cleaners, but ATF works great and cheaper.

 

[hrsitton]

If I had one of those complete, at this point, I'd turn one into a toy hauler/camper.

That's called a FunMover. That's what mine was for 11 years traveling 7 Western states with dirt bikes in the back and an F-150 towed. Not too fast in the mountains!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Charged $100 extra as my model was hard to find.

I can see that. There was FAR more Ford applications than there was International ones.

 

[hrsitton]

UPDATE...........

Turned the timing up around 1 3/4 dimes.

Started much better, idled much better, about 1/2 the white smoke but much better.

Turned it up a hair over 3 dimes, about 4mm. Around 6 degrees.

Started even better, idled even better, and no white smoke. After 30 minutes the only way to get white smoke was to depress the accelerator and quickly release before it got up to RPM. And then only a puff of smoke and gone. If the pedal was held util it got up to RPM and then released, no white smoke.

Took it out for a 30-mile road test today with some hills.

Much peppier. At least to my memory. But lots of black smoke at full throttle. Even when up to governor speed. It is actually acceptable as is but I'll turn the fuel back two flats and see what happens. If I get white again I'll know it's too lean....I think.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Before you turn the fuel down, maybe you should check for a dirty air filter or some kind of obstruction in the intake.

 

[hrsitton]

Before you turn the fuel down, maybe you should check for a dirty air filter or some kind of obstruction in the intake.

Good idea, but that's all checked out. No problems there. But since the post just made, I've been thinking..........

No black smoke except the last 10% or so of the throttle. I could back off a hair, even going uphill, and the black smoke would go away without losing any appreciable power.

I only drove the truck 12,000 miles in the 4 years I was using it. Then I just kept my foot on the floor most of the time. (I was loaded pretty good) No black smoke then but by modulating things at the low load I'll be carrying, I'm thinking it may perform ok while staying this side of the black smoke.

I've got a couple of trips planned in the next month or so that are longer. Think I'll wait for that, check the fuel mileage, and decide how much trouble it is to keep my foot out of it.

The timing did the trick, or 90% of it. I see a lot of old diesels that blow black when the driver is getting after it.

I've got a 95 F150/5.8 with a blown head gasket or worse that I'm needing to get into so I may just push the old UHaul toward the back burner. At the moment I only need it to make an 80 mile hay haul once per month with a 400 miler coming up.

Huge big thanks to everyone on the thread. I'd still be scratching my head. I know gas engines can get off with distributor wear, those that still have them, but not by 6 degrees.

Learned a lot. And I'm thinking a little black smoke on top hurts nothing but the pocketbook. Right?

Edit: I keep forgetting to mention I have 9 PSI on both sides of the filter. That's a little high but don't know if that'd affect anything since the pressures are much higher downstream.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

And I'm thinking a little black smoke on top hurts nothing but the pocketbook. Right?

Right.

No black smoke except the last 10% or so of the throttle.

This actually sounds pretty normal.

 

[hrsitton]

A normal truck. Ahhh....that sounds so good! Sounds like time to leave it alone. Runs and sounds really good to me.

One more thing I'd like to know and it may only apply to Uhauls. It has electric over oil over brake fluid or whatever. It's electric but has an oil pressure light. Brakes are outstanding. Changed brake pads all around and changed the brake fluid when I first got it. Before that the oil pressure light would sometime come on. Call the Uhaul mechanic that I got it from and he said it was just dirty senors not to worry. Turn off the switch and restart and it likey wouldn't show up again for a long while. But now it stays on most of the time, like all the time.

So I'm wondering if the best approach is to remove the sensor, clean, put in a new one, or just go to a manual actual pressure gauge.

 

[Cubey]

If you go into higher elevations, all bets are off for it continuing to run nicely since it's all hand set. I'll smoke a lot more and lose some power. My RV was smoky and weak in parts of Utah last summer, most noticeably when taking off from stops.

 

[Farmer Rock]

The one think I miss about my s1600 was the awesome hydro boost brakes it had. Would stop on a dime..

Rock

 

[IDIBRONCO]

One more thing I'd like to know and it may only apply to Uhauls.

That would be an International thing instead of a U-Haul thing.