Two questions that may be related

[ConstantVigilance]

So in all likely hood and with no way to say for 100% certain.....by removing ip gear cover and teying to line up the marks u could possibly have been out a tooth one way or the other...

This is the very reason we say never remove ip gear cover.

Well now is time to line it up seal it up amd hope for best after heads come off.

Good luck.

Your right. No way to know for certain. I needed to swap on the 7.3 liter housing because I needed the breather port for my turbo set up.

I'm going to try and purchase this timing Gadget, and at least time the motor correctly. I had an oil leak anyway at the front of the motor, so this wasn't a complete waste of time taking it apart.

I really want to avoid removing these heads of course. And if the timing is not what's causing this problem, at least I have some good timing gear.

I was talking to a diesel mechanic today, a guy from out of town who is looking at buying some parts from me, and he says in his 35 years he never heard of something like this. He turned me on to the idea of checking part numbers for pre cups.

Basically, he's wondering if when they assemble this engine they used pre cups that might have a smaller orifice leading into the compression chamber. He thinks maybe the fuel is poolling inside of the pre cup.

He agrees that it sounds like I'm getting too much fuel. But says it just doesn't seem possible to burn them up without these things being energized. He floated the idea that there was some kind of back-feed of power that was turning these plugs on even when they're not plugged in. These things are getting really hot, that's obvious.

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[Macrobb]

I Think he's right in that you've got some really odd problem, probably somethin from the assembly. Unplugged, there's no way for the glow plug to get power. I'm still wondering about glow plug tips bouncing around in there, but even if not... I'm still convinced it's not just timing. Glow plugs don't melt like that, not in our IDI's.

 

[ConstantVigilance]

I Think he's right in that you've got some really odd problem, probably somethin from the assembly. Unplugged, there's no way for the glow plug to get power. I'm still wondering about glow plug tips bouncing around in there, but even if not... I'm still convinced it's not just timing. Glow plugs don't melt like that, not in our IDI's.

Is it possible to assemble this motor and install the camshaft wrong? So, as the cam gear is off time, in relation to the camshaft... I can't tell if they have a key or something.


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[ConstantVigilance]

Or to put it another way: looking at a picture of a new cam, I don't see a key where you can line up the gear and cam upon installation. A key like you see on the crank and crank gear.

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[79jasper]

Iirc, the gear is pressed on. But should have a key.

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[goldsjos18]

yes the cam does have a key is a 1/8 inch thick woodruff key i think

 

[Macrobb]

And it's not pressed on very hard. Remove the screw on the end and you can tap the gear off with a mallet. Should have a key. Might be worth removing the screw off that cam and see if you can see the key-slot behind it?

 

[ConstantVigilance]

And it's not pressed on very hard. Remove the screw on the end and you can tap the gear off with a mallet. Should have a key. Might be worth removing the screw off that cam and see if you can see the key-slot behind it?

I'll definitely take a look, thanks

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[ConstantVigilance]

I'll definitely take a look, thanks

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Looks like you can't install this wrong.

You must be registered for see images attach

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[ConstantVigilance]

UPDATE: Problem solved. No more burned glow plugs... or excess smoke... or kinda-sorta-high EGT's.

As it turns out, the cam gear was 180* off of the IP gear.

If the reader doesn't read any of this thread... I want them to know the IDI can still run pretty good even when its 180* out of time.

I posted earlier that I used a WHITE paint pen to mark timing gear teeth... in fact, at the time, I only had a YELLOW paint pen.

The kids that assembled this motor marked the wrong spot with WHITE paint. There is a "0" and a "y" and they marked the "0".

Before I originally removed the IP housing, I put it to TDC, and verified the IP key to be around 4'oclock. Then, using a mirror, I noticed the WHITE paint on the front of the cam gear. I couldn't see any "y" or a large indent... I never thought anything of it, because the picture I found online of the front of the engine with the front plate removed, that cam gear had a large indent, not a "0", designating the opposite end of TDC.

I read around and asked the question of how well the motor would run 180* off... and the general consensus is that it would not run well at all... if it even started.

Of course, the motor ran when I bought it... well... at least they had a video of it running. I never watched them start it. But as I've written... I've put a few hundred miles on her with it out 180*

The next time I removed the IP housing was to re-install the smaller IP (I thought maybe the Moose pump was burning up the GP's). This time, I took extra care, RE-marking the cam-gear with YELLOW paint, sense, using the mirror, the white paint was no longer visible to me.

When all efforts failed to diagnose my problem, I removed the front cover, and didn't bother to put the motor to TDC, sense I was pretty sure the static timing was fine, and I was going to put it to TDC before reassembly anyway.

After removing the front cover, I turned the crank so that the large indent on the crank, lined up with the "0"... I posted a pic of this. Looking closely at the pic, you can see there was WHITE paint. It's very faded. I then turned the crank some more until I could see the teeth above the "0"... and there was my YELLOW paint.

In conclusion: Truck ran fine, other than burning up GP's, smoking excessively, running seemingly higher EGTs, and seemingly less power... (the power is kinda objective, i guess).

Now, the truck runs great. And without a doubt, has more power. I realize that my 7.3 idi never ran it's best, cause this motor just pulls better. I need more GP's and have to chase down some fuel leaks and an oil leak... but that's fine with me.

Thank you everyone who helped me chase down this problem.

 

[riotwarrior]

Thanks for the honest update....

In case yer wonderun...180 degress out....IS TIMING

Just sayin

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

Your right. No way to know for certain. I needed to swap on the 7.3 liter housing because I needed the breather port for my turbo set up.

I'm going to try and purchase this timing Gadget, and at least time the motor correctly. I had an oil leak anyway at the front of the motor, so this wasn't a complete waste of time taking it apart.

I really want to avoid removing these heads of course. And if the timing is not what's causing this problem, at least I have some good timing gear.

I was talking to a diesel mechanic today, a guy from out of town who is looking at buying some parts from me, and he says in his 35 years he never heard of something like this. He turned me on to the idea of checking part numbers for pre cups.

Basically, he's wondering if when they assemble this engine they used pre cups that might have a smaller orifice leading into the compression chamber. He thinks maybe the fuel is poolling inside of the pre cup.

He agrees that it sounds like I'm getting too much fuel. But says it just doesn't seem possible to burn them up without these things being energized. He floated the idea that there was some kind of back-feed of power that was turning these plugs on even when they're not plugged in. These things are getting really hot, that's obvious.

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You could’ve used your timing housing. The breather port for your turbo comes off it’s just rtved where the stock plate cover is.