Truck does not start hot

[chicken bones]

I have a 1994 f 250 4 x4 7.3 idi stock Turbo. I have owned this Truck since new, about 350000 Km. The truck starts up fine as long as its cold, if hot does not want to start. I have the original high pressure fuel pump and injectors, yes I know its time for a moose pump,but is this HEAT SINK thats causes this and please explain how this works.Thanks.

 

[jlwoods99]

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but the IP is wore out can't generate enough pressure as the tolerances are wore and sloppy. So the heat sink is pouring cold water over it to cool it and shrink the tolerances so it is generating enough pressure to make it inject fuel. Not sure if thats completely right but I believe its the gist of it.

jim

 

[chicken bones]

But she fires up first time everytime when cold and runs good,it's quite warm here right now,and if i drive it and let it sit for a hour wont start, if it sits for 9 hrs at work starts no problem?

 

[icanfixall]

Whats posted so far is the heat soak issues your having. Heres how it works. A cold pump is going to have closer tollanances than a warm pump. So as the pump warms up and you shut down more heat is conintrated in the still pump. So the worn out clearances now grow even moe. Now its tuff to make enough pressure to pop open the injecters. If its a standard tran try bump starting it on a hill. The faster the engine spins the pump the more chance it has to make pressure. Pouring cool water on the pumping end of the pump will help but its not a long time repair either. Running thicker fuel may help too but again, thats not a repair. Try some 2 stroke oil in the fuel or maybe 2 qts of atf in the fuel. If that help then you really know your in need of a Moose Product. Probably due for a set of Bb code injecters and a return line lit too. Then have it timed. A member in B.C. has the ability to time for you also.

 

[Ugly Moosling]

If it is heat sink, it's caused by wear in the injection pump. As your truck runs everything obviously gets hotter, then as it sits for a while with no fuel circulating through the pump to pull at least some of the heat away, it heats up even more. The tolerances in the pump are insanely close and under perfect conditions the thinner hot fuel still goes where it's supposed to. When there's wear, the hot fuel is thin enough to sneak past the areas that are worn and not go out to the injectors with the required pressure or volume to start the engine. If you managed to get it running it would run ok due to higher internal pressures thanks to higher rpm spinning the fuel transfer pump.

Before you condemn the pump check a few other things out. Make sure your lift pump is working like it should, and check the condition of your starter and batteries. If fuel pressure to the injection pump is low, or cranking speed is slow, it can cause a similar issue. The injection pump needs flow and speed to be able to produce the volume/pressure of fuel called for to open the injectors and start the engine.

If you're leaning towards it being heat soak there are a few tricks to buy you some time. The safer option is to mix some 2 cycle oil or filtered waste motor oil into your tank to help thicken the fuel. The other option does involve slowly pouring water over the pump to cool it down. I really see this as more of a last resort because you risk seizing the injection pump if not done just so. That not only trashes your pump, but takes away your core value as well. Im sure someone with experience in these methods can give you more details and hopefully will chime in soon .

 

[chicken bones]

Thanks,that makes perfect sence,I have allways used Stanadyne in my fuel.Sounds like I need to send the core to Constoga Diesel and have it rebuilt.What pump do you all recommend,not towing anything.I have a stock Turbo with a proper down pipe.I shall do injectors at the same time, they are also originals.I dont think I want full Moose with all the smoke, maybe a Moose Junior would wake up my truck?

 

[japar]

I was having starting issues mostly after the truck has been running for awhile and shut off briefly, well the other day I got stuck the starter went out. I had a new replacment at the shop and swapped starters . No problem now you can just here that starter spin the motor over faster. Was the starter all the time. Seems I only get 2-3 years out of a starter

 

[icanfixall]

I was having starting issues mostly after the truck has been running for awhile and shut off briefly, well the other day I got stuck the starter went out. I had a new replacment at the shop and swapped starters . No problem now you can just here that starter spin the motor over faster. Was the starter all the time. Seems I only get 2-3 years out of a starter

Sounds like you are cranking too long and thats why the starters don't last. An idi engine set up correctly shouls spin on the starter so fast you can't count the rpms. And it should fire off on the first revolution too. My truck can sit for 5 days or more and fire off within the first revolution or two. Thats a fast cranking engine with a tight fuel system and a electric lift pump. As for which moose pump to buy saying you don't haul much is any my thoughts are the Baby Moose. The name means nothing more than its a fine rebuild with top quality parts done at a much higher degree of precission than any other pump on the market. Mel will only use the Stanadyne parts. Not the cheaper higher profit import parts of much lower quality. I feel no need to say they are chinese or indian made parts because its know where they come from. The word Baby only tells us what stage the pump is. For me I call the Baby Moose the stage 1 pump. That way I can say I have the stage 3 pump... Mel does have the option of a stage 4 pump too....