Tons of Sterling 10.25 Problems

aiyana7.3

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In short, the back right hub on my 1992 ford f250 with the sterling 10.25 keeps coming loose.

(Before I get into what all I have done to the truck, heres the back story. My dad bought it used in 1993 from a dealership. It only had around 50,000 miles on it. While my dad owned it, there wasn't anything done to the rear end besides the brakes.)

The long story is that awhile back the back right bearing broke while I was driving the truck and the axle came out of the housing until the axle was just barley in the housing.

After that, I replaced all of the bearings, races, and axle nuts and everything seemed fine for a month or so. The only thing was that there was a strange spacer type ring that was between the back right hub and the brake backing plate that the other side didn't have. Since the truck did 250,000 miles with that ring on it I assumed it was ok to leave it. I did notice that when everything was back together, back right drum and wheel was sticking out just a little further than the other side.

Then, a month or so later, while under the truck I noticed that the back right tire was completely soaked in diff fluid. So I took everything back out to replace the wheel seal and all the brake components.

The weird thing is that when I took everything out, they're were metal shavings all over the inside of the hub. I found that the strange spacer type ring that was sitting in between the hub and brake backing plate was torn up and was causing the shavings. So I left it out. When I put the hub back on without the mystery ring, theyre were difficulties torqueing the axle nut down. The instructions I had said to torque it to 65 pounds and back it off 5 clicks. After I reached 65 lbs the axle nut was not even in contact with the outer bearing yet and the hub was still very lo0se. After I torqued it to 100 lbs it was still not touching the outer bearing. I found that the extension of the socket was being push so far into the axle housing that it was beginning to bind and prevent the nut from being torqued. I switched to a different socket without this extension and was able to get the axle nut to seat the bearings after about 85 ft lbs. After that, the wheel was no longer leaking fluid or sticking out too far.


After a month or so of driving it, I found that the back right tire was again soaked in diff fluid. When I pulled of the tire I found that the hub was loose (which I assumed is why the wheel seal was leaking.) I torqued it back until the wheel was tight and drove it about 3 miles. When I jacked it up again to check and see if everything was tight I found that it became loose again.

What is going on with this Axle? How do I tighten it and ensure that it stays that way?
Sorry for all the information, I figured it might help to know the whole story. Thanks in advance for the help.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Pictures would help. However, there are two bearing setups for those - one is your standard with just bearings, the other (factory upgrade) includes an oil slinger/spacer between the spindle and the hub's inner bearing with a bearing that is slightly narrower con compensate for it. Seems to me the first time you repaired the hub you used the standard bearings with the slinger still in place, but what I find odd is that when you pulled the slinger you should have had no problem anymore...

My suggestion at this point would be a new oil seal, new bearings, and depending on whether the hub is damaged possibly a new hub. Hub can come from any Sterling axle '87 to '96 as long as it's of the full-float variety (F250 HD and F350), junkyard is your friend there. Also inspect the spindle, make sure it has no damage, that would ruin your day pretty bad.
 

aiyana7.3

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I will definitely work on finding some pictures. The outside surface of the spindle does have some gouges in it from when the bearing broke. I can get some pictures for that as well. What does the factory upgrade setup do? Its also strange how it seems that one side has the upgrade but the other didn't.
 

LCAM-01XA

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The upgrade has to do with the hub seal - the old factory one apparently sucks, so they redesigned it and put the slinger in place to keep oil from splashing on it too much. If only one side developed a leak at some point in the past it's normal that only that side got the upgrade - since doing hub seals on these does not require actually opening the housing it's just fine if you only do the seals one at a time as needed. The aftermarket seals available today, particularly the Timken one, do not require the slinger, it may be a good thing to have it but's definitely not a requirement.
 

aiyana7.3

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That makes things a lot more clear. So new bearings, oil seal and maybe a new hub? How will I know if the hub is damaged? Is there anything specific to look for?
 

LCAM-01XA

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Gouges, sharp edges, etc. Doubtful you'll see any of those though, If your bearing races never spun inside it the hub should be just fine.
 

aiyana7.3

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So should I leave this slinger piece off and just replace everything? Also why isn't the axle nut torqueing everything down at 65 ft lbs like that other side?
 

LCAM-01XA

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idk why it was being stupid on you, but if you get Timken bearings for say a '90 truck they should be of the kind that doesn't use the slinger...
 

Agnem

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If you have even one loose shaving floating around in there, it will wreck your bearings and races. The fact that you had to re-tighten it, means that is probably exactly what is happening.
 

Black dawg

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I am pretty sure that slinger isnt meant to be used with the oem bearings, it comes in a kit with a bearing and seal that I assume are not the original part number for these trucks. Napa #BR3992K
 

LCAM-01XA

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No there is a Ford P/N for the slinger setup, but you are right it does come with its own bearing as it is narrower. I'd imagine the seal is designed to work with those to also.

Stick to aftermarket bearings and seals, lose the slinger. We have thousands of trouble-free miles on the Timken seals, not cheap at $35 a piece IIRC but they do work good. Get Timken bearings also, or Koyo, or SKF, or any other brand name. Duralast, Driveworks, and other in-store brands are not what you wanna use here, pony up for the good stuff.
 

Black dawg

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If you get skf bearings, pull them out of the box and see who actually made the bearing. I have been finding some koyo and timken in skf boxes.

If the bearings dont say koyo or timken dont use them. I havent seen a bearing that actually said skf on it for quite a while, usually they say china,mexico, nothing. I have not had good luck with these bearings.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Good to know, the last SKF set I used was an industrial application and IIRC they did say SKF on them. But you're right, that was quite a while ago...
 

aiyana7.3

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Ok I was able to take the hub and bearings off the truck today. Here are some quick pictures I took with a go pro (sorry about it being so fish eyed.) If it would help to see anything more specific, just let me know.
I assume the black area on the spindle was caused from heat. The deep gouges were their after the bearing broke.
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towcat

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your axle tube is *****'d.
do yourself a favor and go to the wrecking yard and get yourself a replacement rear end with the same gear ratio. maybe even get lucky and get a limited slip already inside.
you could cut off the damaged spindle tube and weld on a new one, but the cost will easily exceed a used replacement.
trying to "fix" this one is like beating a dead horse.
 
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