tips for changing clutch master cylinder

[73idi88f350]

looking for tips for changing the clutch master cylinder

mines leaking into the cab and is now starting to cause problems with the clutch..

i already picked one up and it dont look hard. but looking for tips on removing the plastic line.. and should i try to bench bleed before installing looking for best ideas because i cant let the truck be down..

my idea for a bench bleed is to stick the tip down in break fluid and fill the res and try to pump it till no air, then put the plug back in till ready to install the plastic line..

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I can only speak for my 1985; it may or may not apply in your case.

There is a roll-pin in the hose-nose of the master that, when pushed out, will allow the tube to slide straight out.

I also learned that the tube end-fittings of a 1st Gen. Dodge/Cummins are a direct fit/swap with the 1985 Ford system, which proved to be a real asset when I grafted the Dodge slave to my Ford master; it was as simple as that.

As for bench-bleeding, I have never yet bench-bled any of the masters on anything I have ever replaced; any air trapped will find it's own way out in short order.

I just connect everything, fill the master to the brim, open the bleeder on the slave, and walk away for several hours, checking occasionally to make sure the master hasn't drained too low.

I have seen people pump and fiddle with these things for days; I have far better success with my method; it may not work at all for anyone else.

 

[dgr]

Aren't you supposed to bleed them from the bottom by fully depressing the piston? Maybe I'm thinking of a different application

 

[RavenTBK]

I learned this the hard way... posted a bit of my frustrations in the forum... might search for my username to see whats up.

Anyway, I did a master/slave swap while keeping the plastic line. You should consider the same, as the other end is quite likely isnt far behind failure too. Doing them both makes the job easier in hindsight. Here's my two bits:

You will have a pain in the ass removing the roll pin from the master cylinder. Some folks say not, but a majority do. I did. Depends on the condition of the pin which you cannot know until it is removed. In my case, it refused to move until I had the master free from the firewall, and used the aircleaner as an anvil to pound on. YMMV.

To bleed was easy as pie. No air, no issues. Here's how you do it: Get a "old timey" oil can. Kind with a steel tube and pump. They sell em at autozone for about $6. Get a length of tube to slip over the steel of the pump. The other end, jam it into the bleeder port of the slave. When you're all hooked up, fill the pump with brake fluid, and pump into the slave. Keep pumping until the master is about half full. Remove the hose, reinstall the bleeder screw (some fluid will gravity feed out, which is why you need the master at least 1/2 full). Top off the master, pump a couple times and be golden.

There are several other posts regarding this "bottom up" method of bleeding the clutch, on several different forums. Feel free to verify what I've told you.

Cheers!

 

[73idi88f350]

I learned this the hard way... posted a bit of my frustrations in the forum... might search for my username to see whats up.

Anyway, I did a master/slave swap while keeping the plastic line. You should consider the same, as the other end is quite likely isnt far behind failure too. Doing them both makes the job easier in hindsight. Here's my two bits:

You will have a pain in the ass removing the roll pin from the master cylinder. Some folks say not, but a majority do. I did. Depends on the condition of the pin which you cannot know until it is removed. In my case, it refused to move until I had the master free from the firewall, and used the aircleaner as an anvil to pound on. YMMV.

To bleed was easy as pie. No air, no issues. Here's how you do it: Get a "old timey" oil can. Kind with a steel tube and pump. They sell em at autozone for about $6. Get a length of tube to slip over the steel of the pump. The other end, jam it into the bleeder port of the slave. When you're all hooked up, fill the pump with brake fluid, and pump into the slave. Keep pumping until the master is about half full. Remove the hose, reinstall the bleeder screw (some fluid will gravity feed out, which is why you need the master at least 1/2 full). Top off the master, pump a couple times and be golden.

There are several other posts regarding this "bottom up" method of bleeding the clutch, on several different forums. Feel free to verify what I've told you.

Cheers!

sounds like the key right here.. im trying to bleed it up right now and it seems to only disengage the clutch 1/2 way

 

[73idi88f350]

got it all bleed.. was a pain because all mine had was an Allen headed bolt with a small pin hole on the front.. but i got it

now it seems as if the master cylinder rod is to short... the old master had an adjustable rod.. ive been reading that they can be removed.. but are a pain..

any other suggestions.. im able to drive it but i have to really jam the clutch pedal down to the floor, but i notice it seems to have 1/4-1/2inch play before it seems to push the master.

someone before me already made some kind of rod with a bracket to keep the master tight.. goes from the steering column to the lower bolt on the clutch master and has very little flex.

thanks!

 

[73idi88f350]

Bump

 

[73idi88f350]

finally got the old rod out of the old master and the new rod out of the new master and did the swap... got it adjusted and now its better then ever the throw is softer and the throw of the shifter is way smoother into gears...

now i need to get under it and grease up the fork deal... anyone have pics of what needs greased?

thanks!