This doesn't look good! (pics) help!!!

[dunk]

It does not function as any appreciable baffle. Under most conditions it is resting against the cover. You could remove the diaphragm and spring from the CDR completely and epoxy the breather hole on the cover shut and it should make no difference in oil consumption. I have no explanation for your experience. Did you keep accurate records of mileage and how much oil you added at what mileage before and after replacing the CDR? If not, and the CDR was in fact the only change made, I'm inclined to believe your perceived decrease in oil consumption was biased by your expectations and without any standing in actual oil consumption. If you keep records of oil consumption, please post the numbers.

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[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

I just got the truck. Truck burned through 2qts of oil in an hour of idle time. After changing the CDR along with changing return lines, oil consumption dropped to 1/4 qt in the same run time.

I've read of others having the same experiences. Now I understand that it's designed to keep the engine from drinking oil during a high intake vacuum situation... But don't understand why myself and others have had the same experience.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

After looking at the picture closer... I'm curious if maybe it was sludged up enough to prevent oil from draining back?

Also, why does the factory turbo system reverse the CDR effectively defeating the runaway protection...?

 

[Waystro]

What's a CDR?
Oh yeah that tuna can I delete.
RDT all the way

 

[Waystro]

Back when I had the first idi I burned oil just idling took Tuna Can off soaked in diesel overnight
cleaned it up put back on truck knocked the consumption in half.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Back when I had the first idi I burned oil just idling took Tuna Can off soaked in diesel overnight
cleaned it up put back on truck knocked the consumption in half.

Exactly what I'm talking about... it does make a difference however based on its design, it doesn't make sense.

 

[pafixitman]

What's a CDR?
Oh yeah that tuna can I delete.
RDT all the way

Excuse me, sir, sir....your truck is on fire!

How many times was I told that at a traffic light!

 

[dpuder]

This morning I drained some oil out to see if any water or coolant was in it and it was black as night. So that's good. Then I started it up with the CDR removed and warmed it up, drove it down the road then checked again to see how smokey it still was. It definitly cut in half by the time it was warm so that's also good. I've got the CDR soaking in diesel for the night. Any more ideas on how to get it to stop pushing blue smoke? Or where it's burning the oil?
Here's a video link to show you guys how it's running.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ygk3eLwyGfI

 

[chris142]

I would take the cap off when warm and just see if its blowing oil droplets out or if it blows the cap out of your hand. When cold, they will have quite a bit of blowby... That's normal.

Even when warm, it will be fairly noticeable due to high mileage.

The "steam" coming from the tube isn't an issue.

Another trick is to remove the cap when warm and slowly increase the rpm. The pressure should decrease as rpm increases. If pressure increases... It might be a good idea to run a compression test to see where things are at.

If it starts fairly easy, I doubt blowby is excessive or compression is really low.

Let it come up to operating temp tomorrow and let it run for a good bit once warm before doing anything.

Mine has zero blowby warm or cold. Always starts right up even if I don't wait for the GP light to go out. But it burns a qt of oil every 500 miles, no turbo btw so its not turbo seals. Any guesses?

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Looks normal for a cold engine.. However, smell the exhaust once it's up to temperature and see if it smells like oil or if it smells like fuel (or makes your eyes water).

From the video, that looks more like fuel haze to me which could be a sticking injector or weak injection pump.

When you had the CDR tube unhooked, was it blowing oil out of the tube?

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Mine has zero blowby warm or cold. Always starts right up even if I don't wait for the GP light to go out. But it burns a qt of oil every 500 miles, no turbo btw so its not turbo seals. Any guesses?

Could be valve seals, guides, etc

Most say the idi burns a bit of oil from the factory... Not sure how true that is though.

Also, pull the breather and see if there is oil pooling in the intake.

 

[icanfixall]

You have a worn out injection pump and probably worn out injectors. I also hear a valve rocker noise so you may or may not have a valve guide issue with seals failed. An engine with timing retarded will smoke white similar to yours. Usually washing down the cylinders with too much fuel will cause blue smoke too. But nothing I see is un fixable easily.

 

[typ4]

Turbos can introduce oil on either side. I'm leaning towards fuel system. I've seen Injectors clean up a " ready for overhaul " engine more than once.

 

[dpuder]

What do you think my next step should be in tracking where the oil is going? also, you say "But nothing I see is un fixable easily." I'm confused on the wordage haha. does this mean easily fixed or hard to fix? Thanks

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Relatively easy to fix.

Do you have any oil leaks?

I would hook back up the CDR and drive it a bit to see if oil consumption has changed.

Injectors are easy to change and not terribly expensive. We've used a set from idiperformance.com and had good luck with them. There are other reputable places as well so do your research as some are just terrible.

If the pump is weak, you good try bumping the timing up. As the pump wears, it doesn't build pressure as quickly effectively regarding timing which causes hazing and lack of power. If bumping the timing up helps, plan on replacing the pump when funds allow.