Things to be Thankful For!!

[Mikes91]

Mike. The big wire is 10 gauge I think. The smaller wires are 18 or 20 gauge. The replacement pig tail will usually come with 10 and 14. The connectors can be bought at radio shack. I buy mail order and get 1000 at a time. There are the big companies like FastenAll or Graingers who carry them. Butt connectors should be non insulated and no seam. Shrink tubing is dual wall adhesive lined. The crimp tool I use is a GB. I get them at any ACE Hardware. The stripper is a GB also. They are cheap and work great.

Would a hardware store such as Orchard Supply (here in Kalifornia) sell the butt connectors and heavy duty shrink tubing? They do carry the GB tools. Not sure I've seem connectors without the seam... I'll look.

The pigtail was pre-stripped. I'll strip it some more, though, as I don't think I can get that 1/4 inch of shiny wire sufficiently into the connector to provide a solid connection.


Thank you,
Mike

 

[typ4]

I have seen the RV hitch and plug installers use , god I hate these things, scotchloks on just about every install they do, i have repaired several trucks with the problem. people dont mind spending a hundred bucks to do it right when you explain that a burning truck is hard to put out in the mountains with no FD around.
Hey magoo, that story about the b/u light hookup is a good one,18 guage is a good fusible link, NOT.

 

[TomC]

My '92 has a separate circuit for trailer lighting. I guess it is part of the towing pkg. There is a relay and fuse box behind the driver's side battery. The rub is finding a rear connector to avoid cutting into the harness at the back of the truck. I finally found one but it was not easy.
TomC

 

[Magoo]

TYP4, as in brush rig? Tom. The trailer wireing loom is what all trailer plugs should be wired into. Like Typ4 said scotch locks are evil.

 

[Magoo]

Would a hardware store such as Orchard Supply (here in Kalifornia) sell the butt connectors and heavy duty shrink tubing? They do carry the GB tools. Not sure I've seem connectors without the seam... I'll look.

The pigtail was pre-stripped. I'll strip it some more, though, as I don't think I can get that 1/4 inch of shiny wire sufficiently into the connector to provide a solid connection.



Sorry Mike. Hey are you a californicator or a texiacan? Go to Radio Shack. They sell small packages of the connectors. If you cant find seamless than use the seam type. Seamless allow a double crimp and maintain there solid shape. Seams cause the connector to split open and then its hard to get a solid connection. Go to waytekwire.com and look at there connectors. Order if you have time.

 

[Mikes91]

Would a hardware store such as Orchard Supply (here in Kalifornia) sell the butt connectors and heavy duty shrink tubing? They do carry the GB tools. Not sure I've seem connectors without the seam... I'll look.

The pigtail was pre-stripped. I'll strip it some more, though, as I don't think I can get that 1/4 inch of shiny wire sufficiently into the connector to provide a solid connection.



Sorry Mike. Hey are you a californicator or a texiacan? Go to Radio Shack. They sell small packages of the connectors. If you cant find seamless than use the seam type. Seamless allow a double crimp and maintain there solid shape. Seams cause the connector to split open and then its hard to get a solid connection. Go to waytekwire.com and look at there connectors. Order if you have time.

Cool... thank you. I'm a Texan, but am in school in Kalifornia until March.

 

[typ4]

Hey magoo as in type 4 vw bus engine in my sand rail. And another 12 engines in my garage, want one?lol . soon as I find a small enough pic I will put it in the avatar.

 

[yARIC008]

Does anyone know if 92 and up vans are the same way with the headlight switch. I know the headlights are just run directly through the switch, but from what i can tell the running lights are run through a relay. When i turn on the parking lights/running lights you can hear a relay click from under the hood. When i wired something into the headlight switch a while ago, i noticed there was no hard/worn out wires. Seems nothing was screwy.

Since then the headlights are now HIDS so they are on a relay too. Two actually.

 

[Magoo]

Yaric, you wired something into your headlight switch? What?

Typ4. I had a 57 VWPanel I drove for years back in my "Hippy" days. I eventually out grew the VW thing. They need a zipper.

 

[yARIC008]

Yaric, you wired something into your headlight switch? What?

Part of my alarm system. It needed to interface with the running lights so it could blink at you and stuff, i already had the wire right over by it, so i just tied it in right after the headlight switch. When i click the unlock or lock button on my alarm and the running lights blink you can hear a relay click under the hood. There are three relays up by the battery, it's one of them, not sure which one. And i'm assuming it's factory, don't believe my dad wired up those relays in the past.

 

[Mikes91]

Magoo,

Is there any reason to solder the wires before crimping the butt connector in place?

I discussed your procedure with an auto electrical shop that's checking another wiring harness of mine, and they said they usually solder the wires, then put butt connectors over that. I'd be concerned I'd melt insulation trying to get the wire hot enough to melt the solder.

I understand WHY they solder--it gives a rock solid connection. But is that connection better than a butt connector that is properly crimped? Probably not enough to warrant dealing with a hot soldering iron in a crimped dash space.

Soldering first seems like it is overkill, and frankly I don't have lots of working space since the ends of the wires from the main harness are still under the dash. Not even sure a butt connector on top of solder is a workable thing... butt connectors are made to crimp around wire, not solder.

 

[wwwabbit]

Magoo,

Is there any reason to solder the wires before crimping the butt connector in place?

I discussed your procedure with an auto electrical shop that's checking another wiring harness of mine, and they said they usually solder the wires, then put butt connectors over that. I'd be concerned I'd melt insulation trying to get the wire hot enough to melt the solder.

NO! Never solder a wire that is going to be compression held.

If you pre-solder the wire, then put the connector over it and crimp onto the wire, you run the risk of having a loose connection in the future. The solder is softer then the copper wire and will "move" over time, loosening your connection. Think aluminum household wireing.

If you are crimping, don't solder. If you are soldering, don't crimp. Two very different kinds of connections, and they don't mix. If you are worried about protecting your crimp, use heatshrink with goo in it to seal it all up. Using the right sized crimp will also help to ensure a good connection.

 

[yARIC008]

What about crimping then soldering? I did that to my connectors under the hood. I wasn't fastening two wires together, but was putting on the little umm.. fasteners to hold the wires to a fuse block terminal. Ya know, it's got an eye and you run a screw through it, i bascically ran the wire a little out of it so it stuck out near the eye, then soldered it all around there. Was thinking, if the crimp gave way the solder would hold it together.

 

[Mikes91]

Thank you, wwwabbit. That's what I was thinking... the store person and I must have had a misunderstanding regarding the situation.

Going to skip the solder and go with the connectors as has been recommended. I like to stay away from soldering irons (lots of experience with them... just hate using them.)

I don't see any problem with Yaric's thought re: soldering after crimping. Seems like an OK way to strengthen that type of connection.

Mike