Switched over to R134...

[HammerDown]

And it's like a friken meat locker in my cab
I was promised cold and I got it! 38 degrees at the drivers side vent (the warm side) on low-fan speed.
Dynatemp was used with a sealer, leak detector, pag oil and it's...COLD!
Standard orifice valve and my old one was spotless clean >no metal at all!
the shop said the newer R134 is sooooo much like R-12 and improved over the first generations there's no reason not to switch over old systems.
I may switch over my Vette too!

 

[dave186]

I bet I could get 38 out of my vents with the ac off right now

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

And it's like a friken meat locker in my cab
I was promised cold and I got it! 38 degrees at the drivers side vent (the warm side) on low-fan speed.

What is outside air temperature when your A/C is working so well ??

Have you had a chance to see how well it does on a really hot day ??


What is DYNATEMP ??

Thanks.

 

[Diesel JD]

I hope when I do all the upgrades we've discussed here I can get 38 out my vents on a FL summer day, maybe that way I can not have to suffer as much this summer.

 

[gonecrazyi]

I converted mine over a couple of years ago and it does get cold, as long as Im moving it will freeze the truck out. The moment I set in traffic it begins to lose its effect.

My next plan is to rig an electric fan up to a switch, that should solve that problem.

 

[HammerDown]

A little more info...
yesterday was just around 80 degrees and the temp at the drivers vent was 40'ish idling. As soon as I started moving the truck it dropped hard to 38
Today it's going to crack 90 degrees with more humidity...I be wanting to see where the temp lands.

I have no idea what Dynatemp is (sorry) but I was told it's so close to R-12 and that's why it gets cold.
True, when sitting still the AC will suffer 'some' >as it did with the prior R-12 in my system.
Time will tell but for now the top of my accumulator gets frost on it and that's frik'in ...COLD!
So far, no fancy this or that needed...just brisk air

 

[HammerDown]

Update...90 degrees today and humid ...however, it was 38 degrees at my vents just driving around town

 

[FordGuy100]

Wow this is a relief for me with my upcoming R134a swich. Sounds promising

 

[RLDSL]

I converted mine over a couple of years ago and it does get cold, as long as Im moving it will freeze the truck out. The moment I set in traffic it begins to lose its effect.

My next plan is to rig an electric fan up to a switch, that should solve that problem.

A fan will make a world of difference. Insulating the evaporator box on the engine side helps a bunch too. THey came from the factory with insulation between the engine and the evaporator box, but most have disintegrated by now, and they didn't bother to insulate around the blower box part so it soaks heat in there, if you insulate the whole works with this stuff it really helps in severe heat climates where underhood temps get insane.

 

[HammerDown]

Brrrrrrrrr...I need a ice scraper inside my truck!
Is it really 90 degrees and humid or is it February here in SE-PA?

 

[NMF250IDI]

DIY R-12 to R-134 conversion

Any advice on a DIY conversion ? I understand that the system needs to be flushed to get rid of the old oil...and maybe some seal changes ?

 

[Knuckledragger]

Did you have an air conditioning place do the changeover? About how much does it cost? I have an empty system in my 85 since before the rebuild last year and have been considering the change since the engine was put back in. Thanks!

 

[RLDSL]

Any advice on a DIY conversion ? I understand that the system needs to be flushed to get rid of the old oil...and maybe some seal changes ?

If just converting with no compressor problems, replace orings, do not use Pag oil on them , the synthetic ac oils directly will dry them upo and cause leaks, eithe rget a bottole of Nylog to lubricate and seal the orings or a can of R12 mineral oil, the nylog is usually cheaper and keeps better once opened
FLush out the system with ac flush and with the componants apart, preferably with the condenser out on the ground and it will get nice and clean. Make sure to thoroughly vacuum the system to get all the moisture boiled out Strongly suggest a variable orifice valve to maximize cooling They are available from Advance and Napa under different names

 

[Wanderer-rrorc]

If just converting with no compressor problems, replace orings, do not use Pag oil on them , the synthetic ac oils directly will dry them upo and cause leaks, eithe rget a bottole of Nylog to lubricate and seal the orings or a can of R12 mineral oil, the nylog is usually cheaper and keeps better once opened
FLush out the system with ac flush and with the componants apart, preferably with the condenser out on the ground and it will get nice and clean. Make sure to thoroughly vacuum the system to get all the moisture boiled out Strongly suggest a variable orifice valve to maximize cooling They are available from Advance and Napa under different names

need more info on this!!...

my van dual ac SUCKS to be polite...and with it being converted to a camper it make it suck EVEN more with the added moisture of people sleeeping in it...

 

[RLDSL]

need more info on this!!...

my van dual ac SUCKS to be polite...and with it being converted to a camper it make it suck EVEN more with the added moisture of people sleeeping in it...

PM me on this . You have a specific situation that is going to be fun, but we can get it to where you are blowing snotcycles in there