Swapping in a used engine. New seals are a given right?

[junk]

Ok I rounded up a great running 7.3 for my 93 truck that currently has a serious oil consumption problem. When I swap the engines around new front and rear crank seals are a given right? I'm always hesitant to take out used, but non-leaking seals, but while I'm in this far I figured they are a no brainer.

Interested to hear others thoughts on this?

I am going to do these gaskets and seals though.
Oil cooler reseal
Oil pan paint and reseal
turbo reseals when I swap it over
new return lines
new thermostat
New single mass conversion clutch kit

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[icanfixall]

Yes... Those seals are the ones to do now when its easy. Might want to make sure the oil pan does not have a cork or rubber gasket. The factory never used a gasket. they used rtv and it works muchbetter than a gasket. Many rebuild kits and rebuilders that don't know what they are doing will install these gaskets just because some designer put them in the repair kits. RTV works better than a gasket. We can't improve on that.

 

[Knuckledragger]

If the front and rear seals are not leaking, they are not likely the cause of the oil consumption. As long as you have the engine out, I would still advise the change, but also look to change out the valve seals. That can be done with the heads on if you are patient and they are the most likely spot to fix the problem. Don't forget to check the CDR valve, another place to suck out crankcase oil.

 

[BrandonBerkosky]

Ide do a total regasket. Rock auto has victor reinz. Ur already there why save time on a couple of easy to change seals and gaskets? And use only genuine ih or motor craft thermostat!! I don't know why but the IH gods greatly disapprove of foreign thermostats. Valve seals were cake with the engine tipped over on the engine stand i didn't have to get each cylinder on tdc or fill the cylinders with air. Got my clutch kit from napa flywheel to Throwout bearing with new hardware $435. Its a LuK disguised in a Napa box.

 

[junk]

Ok well I'm going to do front and rear seals also. I'll also hit the valve seals. I've got victor reins and fel pro picked out for most items. I grabbed a clutch from autozone. The dual mass flywheel replacement clutch with coupon and stuff was 300 to my door. Too good a deal to pass up.

I wish I had a fresh turbo to put on but that's. It in the cards right now. Maybe later this summer.

 

[Hydro-idi]

It would be a good idea to throw new headgaskets on there and get your heads inspected while they are off. It is alot easier doing this step with the engine out of the truck in my opinion.

 

[riotwarrior]

Seeing as yer in for the penny, throw in a new thermostat too while at it for good measure, and maybe convert to electric lift? Also if you have a full gasket set, do the lower rad hose housing while at it.

JM2CW....but if yer apart n doing the rest...WTH...

Al

 

[typ4]

If you get a gasket set Do not use the black oil cooler o rings they will get hard and leak in 20k miles

 

[91idi]

Also perfect time for a typ4 cam. You won't regret putting it in, just waiting to do so!

 

[DragRag]

I don't fix things that aren't broken. Why throw money at something if it's not leaking now? I've put in several, and yes I mean several used engines without issue. Doing the minimum is always my strategy. Sure replace bad glow plugs, I never do all, just the bad ones. Replace the return lines maybe, filters, new oil and go.

 

[junk]

I'm leaning towards doing less than more. I ordered 136 bucks of seals and gaskets from rock auto here's what I ordered and my reasoning. I'm leaning towards doing less than more. My theory on intake and head gaskets are they get replaced when they fail or the engine gets rebuilt. No need to mess with them if they aren't having issues. I'm also not interested in any performance items as of now.

Clutch - Told the clutch in the truck was original, I got a single mass conversion kit for $300 bucks from advance. now's the time to do it while the engine is out.
Oil pan reaseal. - Nows the time to do it when engine is out. it will probably also get painted for rust prevention. No gasket will be used.
Oil Cooler reseal - Now is the time while engine is out.
Injector return kit - new as the one on the good engine leaks.
new ford thermostat - I'll have the front drive off so it's easy to change now.
Valve cover gaskets - I'll have to put the turbo valve covers from my 93 on.
glow plugs - I have a new set of beru's in my bad engine. I'll swap them to the good engine.

Things I ordered, but may not mess with.
Water pump - front drive will be off so if it looks the slightest bit questionable I'll swap it.
front and rear seals - Unless they look bone dry I plan to replace them. Especially the rear. It's a pain to do later. I'm always hesitant to replace seals in case the new ones leak worse than the old one.
Valve stem seals - If the engine is out I thought about putting them in.

Fuel system I may change -I have a rebuilt pump and new injectors on my bad engine. Seems a shame not to switch them to the good engine. I may just try to sell them though. The good engine runs so nice I'm not sure it's worth the work. I do have a snap on pulse adapter and light so I should be able to time it after the swap.

 

[riotwarrior]

Sounds to me like you have a great grasp of it..

Good luck, lets hope for the least for ya..

Al