Surging problem and amp light questions...

[diesel458]

Oilbuner gurus! I need your help please.

Went to leave work tonight, started the truck up, after gp's warmed up and the engine started surging pretty hard core . Tried to give it gas, fell flat on it's face with a little gas pedal. Shut it off, waited a second and started again, no surge. It was 48° outside, not sure if that's related or not. It idles kinda rough too. I have a diesel leak from the #4 injector, thought it was the return line, replaced that, but it looks like the return sleeve is leaking, not sure if that's the rough idle or not.

2nd problem, I drove it home ok... then I turned the headlights off, and noticed the amp light faintly flickering. Turned headlights/parking lights on and the amp light turned off. Bad alternator maybe? Battery voltage seems good...

This truck is needing a lot of work, needs a ton of stuff but I should have expected that for a $1600 truck I guess.

Thanks guys!

Rick

 

[79jasper]

Alternator could be going. Drop by a parts store and have it tested.
Surging was air intrusion from the leaking return cap.
Contact Russ/Typ4 on here or Mel at Conestoga diesel for a return line kit.

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[diesel458]

Guessing and air intrusion is not good on a diesel.... should I do injectors while I'm at it?

Thanks for the fast reply.

Rick

 

[79jasper]

If you don't know the history of them or they look factory, it would be a good idea.
The same people I mentioned would be best choice for quality.
Stay away from diesel care and performance.

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[diesel458]

Will do. I'll have to get some cash saved up, they look original, but it can be hard to tell sometimes.

 

[79jasper]

Gray paint is usually a good sign of factory original parts.
And to answer the other question, air intrusion is a big problem. What happens is the "straw effect." Dip a straw in a beverage, put your finger over the end and pull the straw out. The fluid stays in the straw, lift your finger and it drains out. Same concept with leaking return caps, fuel lines, and olives.

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[diesel458]

So basically that cylinder is running lean due to the extra air being sucked in?

 

[79jasper]

No, the fuel drains out of the lines. So when you start it, it runs rough until the air gets worked out.
Usually takes awhile to drain down. Like over night.
But sometimes it can be more of a problem, and happen all the time while running.

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[diesel458]

Oh ok, I gotcha. So it's wasting my 4$/gallon liquid gold. Nice.

 

[79jasper]

Well not exactly. It's just draining back to the tank.

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[diesel458]

Haha ok it drains the other way. But is is leaking when pressurized, as seen by the wasted diesel. Sorry. It's late, brain isn't as quick as usual.

 

[79jasper]

Yes, correct.

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[diesel458]

Is R&D a reputable company? I know getting rebuilt injectors isn't the best idea, but the cost is decent. I'd rather have the moose injectors and ip, just need more time to buy them.

You think I could just slap a new injector ring, o-rings and cap on that 1 injector to buy some time?

They are covered in grey paint, 260k miles on the clock.

 

[79jasper]

Yes, R&D is good also. It's his side business, so it may take some time, but he'll do good.
You could probably just swap the orings. Problem is, you'll disturb the others, then they'll start leaking also.

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[diesel458]

Thanks! Can I stick with the stock injectors for my setup? It only runs around 6 psi if I'm pulling a good hill, don't want crazy power, I'm ok with where it's at now.

Is there a write up on pulling injectors? Just want to make sure I know what I'm getting into before I mess with a 2000 psi system. Also do I need to pull the whole high pressure line, or do I just kinda flex it out of the way?

Thanks for your help.

Rick