super duty van rv build up for towing. 25,000lbs

[mrp669]

I just bought a 1997 e450 superduty 32ft rv and plan on towing with it at 25k gross weight. I have added gauges, 02 van turbo, bellowed up pipes, 3 in intakes, 4 inch exhaust, e-fuel and bowl delete, and 120v idm.

1)I am trying to decide between a ww2 or rr to help get my bottom back from the bigger turbo swap. I have read that the WW2 was better than the rr6/6 in the van turbo in the lower rpms spool up but haven't seen anything bout the rr4/4...other than: Per Clay the 4/4 is a smidge quieter and gives a smidge more boost vs 6/6". How much do the wheels weigh? I've seen ww2 is 5.5027 oz or 13% lighter than oem.

2)I don't want to do the 08+ front clip so I am planning an a2w intercooler to combat compressor heat but haven't found a big enough heat exchanger yet that makes me happy, so I probably will end up with 2 in series maybe 3. I would like one to be the size of the radiator but only 1 inch thick, but I think I might be dreaming on that one.

3)I AM swapping my edge ez/banks trans command(both previous owner) for a ts 6 pos chip or a dp product? with live tunes as soon as assembled. I believe dp has a more capable chip than ts but I would be limited to the one tuner which I don't like. Who all sells the ts with lifetime reburns that are worth it? I am leaning towards php. My dad keeps pushing swamps.

4)I'm pretty sure I have ab injectors (from my research and ill pull a valve cover soon to confirm). I am thinking about swapping to ad's but concerned about egt's. Ad's seem to be the easiest injectors to get ahold of from a salvage yard or auto parts store if I had one fail on the road, which is why I wanna stay stock type sticks. I've also read stock nozzles are better for towing due to better atomization.

5)This brings me to med/big oil. I want as much down low as possible to get the rigs weight going. Is there such a thing as too much hpop for this combo? I dont see anybody talking about doubles on stock injectors other than loping/wandering idle and ipr duty cycle issues with 2 iprs so I think that is out. Did the overdrive ever get an ok for daily driving? srp1.1 have had some catastrophic failures which leaves terminator my first choice as of now.

6)In the spring I am considering a sd pcm wiring 4r100 swap when I do a 4x4 conversion.
A)what is the best model to get the pcm from?
B)Are there other supply sources besides ujointoffroad.com for the 4x4 brackets etc.?

Is there any positive suggestions or anything missing from my list that will help with getting the weight rolling and keep egts in check?

 

[79jasper]

Power hungry hydra for chip. Hands down.

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[mrp669]

Thanks 79jasper, I just did a quick search and I am sold! power hungry hydra is now topping the list for my tunes!

 

[79jasper]

No problem.
I'll try looking over some of the other questions when I can.
Don't be afraid of bigger injectors. Rarely any problems if you get them from a quality rebuilder. Many good names out there. Also always go bigger than you planned for.
When I do mine I'm going hybrids with a 200 nozzle.

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[trackspeeder]

#6 If you want to use a 4R100 go with a stand alone controller. PCS makes a very good TCM.

Another option which would be cheaper is build your E4OD with some 4R100 parts. Use GearHead tunes with the Hydra chip and you should be good to go.

 

[mrp669]

trackspeeder, I,m not scared of rebuilding the e4od or the cost the 4r100 and rebuilding it. my main goal is the pcm/wiring swap to get a 6 year newer ecm and programming(and a mat sensor input) and the better shift programming of the 4r100 would be a secondary bonus and needed if I do the wiring swap as they are a package. I have access to any parts I need for relatively cheap and am already purchasing a transfer case driveshaft and diffs so and extra $125 for a trans is nothing...

79jasper, I was considering ac's-160/0 or even 160/30. I'll check my local parts store for availability on ac's to get an idea if I could get one in a hurry somewhere if I have one fail. Changing the 30% nozzle to a new stick wouldn't scare me as I have internally o-ringed some aa's before with success.

After further research I see it would be pretty pointless to go from ab's to ad's for 5 cc more fuel.

are single shots gonna be noticeably louder? Or just barely?

 

[79jasper]

I believe you should already have singles. Not a lot of difference in sound.
Store rebuilds will fail on you 100 times over before a quality Injector rebuilders Injector will.
A lot of Injector builders don't recommend the 200 nozzle, but it's only because most tuners aren't great at tuning them. I've been following a thread on tuning them easily with the power hungry software.

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[mrp669]

I had the ufo on my fuel feed y so that tells me cali emissions which indicates ab's not aa's. And it is quieter that my 97 f350 with aa's, 99 e350, 00 excursion and 99.5 f350. But to elaborate, are ac single shots louder than say aa's?

 

[79jasper]

Ah, okay. Yes, but Not by much.

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[OLDBULL8]

Check out rosewooddiesel.com or conestogadiesel.com for injectors.

 

[79jasper]

I almost forget Mel has powerstroke injectors.

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[mrp669]

I got the rr2-4/4 wheel today and it weighs 3.526 ounces or 101.06 grams. That's almost 2 ounces lighter than the ww2-5/5 which I've seen weighs 5.5027 ounces. That seems a lot to me since they are both billet!

I am back to considering BO and ad's vs t500 and 160/30's.
I have 2 quotes from joey in 2007"What I noticed in his original post, is that he is looking for towing power, which is torque. That's one of the biggest advantages of Big Oil(anybodys system)." IIRC this was about BO and ad's vs 17* and ac's for towing.
and the second quote is "3000 psi is not enough pressure for any injector currently on the market"
and another unknown quote "more hpop volume results in better throttle response, better atomization, and if you can control your right foot, better fuel mileage."
This makes sense to me. BO helps increase the efficiency of the burn by increasing available high pressure oil across the rpm range, especially lower rpms where I feel it would benefit me more. The increased pressures result in better fuel injection pressures resulting in better fuel atomization resulting in a better burn and more towing power unleashed. where my understanding is 160's need 30% nozzles to get the fuel out in the same amount of time-this would lead to less fuel atomization and less fuel burn resulting in smoke and worse mpg's for the same amount of towing power. What I mean by towing power is useable power climbing an extended steep grade at 25,000 pounds.

 

[mrp669]

I have a t500 in the works. will install the riffraff billet wheel when I do the hpop.

I just need to make a couple measurements for the w2a intercooler and heat exchangers available mounting areas.

I already have the meziere 20 gpm water pump and 1 gauge with both pre and post ic temp sensors to watch efficiency
I do need to get this radiator cap and fill point in the heater hose at the highest point in the system (http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-adapter/remote-radiator-filler-cap-p-1064.html)

I plan on running two(maybe 3) heat ex-changers in series,
1st one in front of radiator (or 2 if the radiator core is over 25 inches tall?)
type 100 12x24x1 thick(http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-air-heat-exchanger/air-to-water-radiator-p-1002.html)
2nd one in the bumper either
type 118 27x7x2 thick(http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-air-heat-exchanger/air-to-water-radiator-p-1063.html) or a
type 101 27x7x3.5 thick(http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-air-heat-exchanger/air-to-water-heat-exchanger-p-1026.html).
I've read on a couple of forums that the type 118 was more efficient than the type 101-as the air heats up as it passes front to back thru the he and in 2 inches,the air is already is heated and not cooling the rest of the 3.5 inches as efficiently.... resulting in inconsistent internal liquid temps resulting in higher outlet temps...

several people have run this w2a ic:
type 15(http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-215.html)
I'm guessing for clearance around the ac compressor, but I would prefer to run
type 5(www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-215.html)
for a more direct hot side air path(shorter hot side pipe)

cxracing and ebay both have more options but my understanding is frozenboost/siliconeintakes have better fin per inch counts for water to air...


and then buy a hydra and custom tunes and re-evaluate the injector choice...

 

[mrp669]

Anybody have an email for joey at terminator engineering?

I have had alot of downtime due to a back injury and surgery and I am just now getting back to this project. A few updates for anybody interested:

WVO-Already installed efuel, fuel bowl delete, 30 and 2 mic spin-on filters, regulated return, tank selector valve, temp and psi gauges. I have a van 35g midship tank to install for diesel. I have a wvodesigns pump, hot fox, 3 30plate fphe's, 2 racor 777r heated filters(darth vaders), 25ft hose in hose, all for the rear stock 55g plastic tank. I plan on being able to run svo below 0*f ambient, but still need to research a tank heater option to assist the hotfox.

Engine-I am planning on going with a t500 and 160/30 singleshot injectors.

Turbo- I have the riff raff 4/4 wheel to install in the 02 van turbo.

Tunes-I haven't decided on a tuner yet.

Intercooler- I have all a2w ic parts to install. This huge box lives in constant boost on the highways....12/13 psi to hold 75mph! I feel I will need more of a monster heat exchanger(or multiple hx's) than anyone has used on a standard van because I'm always in boost and making heat.

Trans-I am using the 4r100 over the e4od for the better shift strategies.

Wiring/ecm-I'm considering just going with a van ecm for a 4r100 trans...or I already have the complete wiring harness(with the MAT/IAT2 sensor!, ecm, and instrument cluster etc) from my 4wd donor truck.

4x4- I picked up an 02 f550 7.3 drw for the 4wd conversion. axles are 4.88 and have 19.5 rims mounted to clear the massive brakes. Transfer case is mechanical.

Solar power-I purchased 4 fullriver 4d agm batteries. I am switching to a 24v house batt bank for better high load inverter efficiency(i.e. a/c and electric "cheapheat"). I am going to toss the 3 panels(500w@17v) I currently have and start over. I plan to cover every inch of space I can on the roof with 30-50v panels in parallel and a mppt charge controller. I haven't decided on which brand 24v inverter to go with yet.

 

[79jasper]

Good luck. Lol Yeah, he makes good pumps, but it'll take forever to get one. And you have to send yours in first.
Contact Corey@CNCFAB http://cncfabricationllc.com/index....oke-94-97/94-97-engine/cnc-7-3-hpop-sgt1.html

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