Super duty overload springs on my f250

[1994Diesel]

Hey guys,

Its been a while since i posted last,

Right now i am in the process of getting my truck in ship shape for a 2000 mile road trip i will be taking with a 2600 lbs( wet weight) Cab over truck camper. My issue is that this camper is putting a strain on my rear leafs, which are packs of 5.

I found a pair of over load springs in a local pick and pull, they are on a 93 ford super duty, I am only paying 45 for each, mounting brackets included.

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Every thing looks like it will bolt right on, the only issue i can for see is i may be needing longer U bolts. Hopefully this will all work out, i will be picking them up this afternoon. my question is will i see an improvement in stability along with ride height? Has anyone else done this?

Any input is appreciated

thanks in advanced

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I got those in my 1-ton, single leafs (not double-leaf like in this pic) but I stacked my factory 1-ton overloads on top of them so I still ended up with two leafs per side. They will help you carry the camper for sure tho, you'll definitely see an improvement in ride height. Lateral stability should also improve some, but for this you really need swaybars. In my truck I have front and rear swaybars and 6+2 packs in the rear, truck barely leans around corners and my camper is a 10-footer so not the lightest thing out there...

 

[RLDSL]

Bear in mind anytime you are running around with a light load on without the camper , those things are going to spank you

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i'm running a 6 main(two lowers are f450 leafs )/3 aux spring pack (two custom length like you'll be buying) and an f450 aux on top of that.im thinking of adding another f450 aux on top.
i left the spacer out so i wouldn't touch the perches until loaded,so i have a nice ride while empty.wasn't sure if that was ok to do lol,but i wanted a nice ride while unloaded,so i tried it.glad i did.if you're going to keep the stock 5 leaf main,you may have enough room so the aux pack doesn't hit when empty with the 1" spacer in there anyway.
then of course cus of the weight of my bed too.with a stock bed you likely wont have them touching at all.

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i guess by rights,what i should do,is put that 1" spacer back in there,ditch the bottom 2" block and fill up what i want for height using springs.
this works perfectly as is, for up to 2.5 ton comfortably.3 tons and she sags just a little to much still.thats the beauty of stacking aux's,you keep a real nice ride quality while empty,as they don't do anything but sit there.stacking mains is what kills your empty ride.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Bear in mind anytime you are running around with a light load on without the camper , those things are going to spank you

Rob, no they won't, they won't even touch their pads with light load - I got a good inch space between the top leafs and the pads, he should end up with about the same...

 

[1994Diesel]

Thanks for all the input you guys.

well... SNAFU, dont have them yet, I got to busy Thursday afternoon and had to work late today, maybe i can swing buy tomorrow and get them. Im really excited about putting the camper on with them installed to see how much better it looks and feels. I will be posting more pics of it.

I was wondering, would grade 8 bolts work for mounting the pads, or should i go with something stronger?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Grade 8 is fine, just make sure you use the largest bolts that fit through the holes already punched in the brackets and through the frame - it's either 7/16" or 1/2" bolts that you need.

 

[towcat]

Grade 8 is fine, just make sure you use the largest bolts that fit through the holes already punched in the brackets and through the frame - it's either 7/16" or 1/2" bolts that you need.

+1
I used to use grade 8 FRAME BOLTS from the local IH dealer. I will post pics morrow on what they look like.
they are designed with two things in mind.
1) the threaded portion is a rolled thread but not a perfect cylinder shape. it's slightly ovaled so the nut goes on with a small fight.
2) the non-threaded portion of the bolt is a snug fit through the drilled hole of the frame and bracket. this slows the ovaling of the holes due to frame flex.
oh yea....they aren't cheap. but a good chassis build never is.

 

[George D.]

Frame bolts are also designed to flex with the frame where normal grade its stay stiff trying to fight frame flex either ovoaling out the holes or wores snapping

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Frame bolts are also designed to flex with the frame where normal grade its stay stiff trying to fight frame flex either ovoaling out the holes or wores snapping

First time I ever hear of this, but for all I know it may very well be true...

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

iv always used grade 8 bolts when replacing spring hangers and when adding aux perches.never had one brake yet.

 

[George D.]

That more aplies to cross members. I don't realy see it being a problem with brackets but just thought I'd throw it out there

 

[1994Diesel]

Ok, i have the springs and the pads, i have also mounted the pads. I'm in a pinch and just put on grade 8 bolts, i spent quite some time finding frame bolts or tapered bolts.

Does anyone have a good idea as to what the overload pads should be torqued down to? Maybe 80ftlb?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Grade 8 is fine, as long as you got the right diameter - what did you end up using, 7/16" or 1/2" hardware? As far as torque, 1/2" wheel studs get the 100lb-ft but they are fine pitch thread, so for coarse thread 80 should be good methinks...

Also you are getting new U-bolts for the axle, right? Gowith 5/8" on those, you may have to slightly enlarge the holes in the square brackets on top of the leafs (mine didn't require it tho) but IMHO it's worth the efforts for the extra peace of mind.

 

[1994Diesel]

I went with 7/16 grade 8 bolts, and for the u bolts, I had them made at a spring shop, 5/8ths and grade 8 also. They are 14 inches long, so that gives me an inch to play with because the spacers and the springs add about 3 more inches.