Starting Problem

[OHIDI83]

Well I was on my way home from work which is 45 miles away and I was 3 miles away from my destination. I had previously drove it for about 400 miles before it just quit on me. I'd have to rule out timing b/c It started previously. Compression? maybe. I need to find a diesel compression gauge. I don't have one. And none of the autoparts stores do either. I know I am getting fuel to the IP b/c I have pulled the supply line to the IP and plenty of fuel comes out. I'm not sure how many miles are on the truck it says 158,*** but not sure if this is original or not. I got the truck from my father in-law. It was sitting for about 1yr with only being started 3-4 times withing the year of sitting. I went to his house to pick it up and it wouldn't start. So, I put a starter and new batteries in it and it started right up. He lives about 110 miles away. While on my way home I put some fuel in it. I drove it to work 3 days which is about a total of 270 miles and when I was 3 miles away from my house it died and has not started since.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

both goofy and i have told ya try lightning it off with a little bit of ether. Just make sure the glows are disabled.

 

[OHIDI83]

bump any suggestions appreciated

 

[Fordsandguns]

You are getting white smoke while cranking, so it sounds like you are getting fuel. It sounds like a glow plug issue to me. In my experience these engines can be a bear to start in cooler weather if the glow plugs aren't up to *****. 5 seconds doesn't sound long enough to me. I just put in a new set of beru's and at 50* mine stays on 10-12 seconds.
I would try testing the glow plugs with a test light or an ohm meter to see if you have any bad ones.
And as suggested try a small shot of ether with the gp's disabled.
Also if it is a stick and you have a buddy with a vehicle capable, you could pull start it.
I had hell with my first idi, and had to do that a time or two.

 

[Goofyexponent]

Well I was on my way home from work which is 45 miles away and I was 3 miles away from my destination. I had previously drove it for about 400 miles before it just quit on me. I'd have to rule out timing b/c It started previously. Compression? maybe. I need to find a diesel compression gauge. I don't have one. And none of the autoparts stores do either. I know I am getting fuel to the IP b/c I have pulled the supply line to the IP and plenty of fuel comes out. I'm not sure how many miles are on the truck it says 158,*** but not sure if this is original or not. I got the truck from my father in-law. It was sitting for about 1yr with only being started 3-4 times withing the year of sitting. I went to his house to pick it up and it wouldn't start. So, I put a starter and new batteries in it and it started right up. He lives about 110 miles away. While on my way home I put some fuel in it. I drove it to work 3 days which is about a total of 270 miles and when I was 3 miles away from my house it died and has not started since.

158XXX miles is time for a replacement pump and injectors, but it shouldn't be worn out completely!! She should still start and run, but be a little sluggish.

It's possible that something has gummed up inside your pump, or maybe the internal timing advance on the inside got all out of whack while it was sitting all that time.

White smoke from the tailpipe means fuel IS making it to the cylinders.

The GP's should be glowing LONGER than 5 seconds. I would say you either have a few burned up, or the harness is corroded and not lighting off all 8. Be careful removing them (1/4" drive ratchet) so you don't twist them off. If they seem stuck, hammer them with pennetrating oil for a couple days and then try again....do't force them..they will break off in the head..then you gotta pull the head!!

Ony a cold morning, I've seen my plugs pop on for 25 seconds sometimes. Use ONLY motorcraft or Beru plugs....from either a Ford dealer or International dealer, or other parts stores...make sure they are Ford Motorcraft or Beru though! Others are known for not lasting or swelling up inside the head and breaking off.

These are easier than a gas engine to work on....you don't have to worry about getting spark. Just fuel delevered at the right time, compression and heat to make them work.

Test the GP's, disable the few remaining ones and hit it with a sniff of white death...make sure the GP's are disabled though....could get interesting if they aren't.

 

[OHIDI83]

could the the tank switching valve be the issue ?

 

[MR.T]

could the the tank switching valve be the issue ?

Sure, mentioned that previously. It switches not only the supply, but the return, and also the fuel gauge senders. When you previously mentioned:

... When loosening the injector fittings the only one that has fuel com out is number 5. No other injector fittings have fuel come out. How can that be?

-- That's a big symptom to verify and look into. They should all be dribbling fuel.

The flow/pressure test I mentioned previously will test the entire fuel supply portion of the system (tank pick-up to filter outlet). The return portion can be tested with a gauge looking at the back pressure -- less then 1 psi back pressure is good (just cranking, it should be near zero PSI). Without a gauge, pouring fuel into a return line with a funnel would probably verify there's an clear return path back to the tank (crack open the tank filler cap too).

Another method is to rig up a gravity (or pressure) fuel feed to the filter inlet. Return line(s) could even be routed back to another (lower) container if the return path was suspect.

I'm sure there are other methods, and many variations. There's no OBD, so create a test that likely would confirm something is functioning or not. Your best method is going to depend on what tools and stuff you have available. You've got a puzzler here, so it may be more then one thing.

Side note: Diesels need to crank fast to start. With slow cranking, more compression and heat is lost. Suggest keeping a battery charger on it. Running extension cords to the block heater was a good idea too. The new batteries should be 850 CCA or higher each. Also, checking the glow plugs is easy, it's just a continuity/ohms test. Each plug should draw ~20 amps about the time the WTS goes off (much more at first) if you have a clamp on ammeter. Remove lack of glow heat as part of the problem.

 

[jam sandwich]

I just dealt with a similar no-start issue. I was getting fuel supply but NO return. Turns out my fuel selector valve failed and blocked ONLY the return line! Check that valve, try and rig up a temp return line and see if it helps.

 

[RLDSL]

I just dealt with a similar no-start issue. I was getting fuel supply but NO return. Turns out my fuel selector valve failed and blocked ONLY the return line! Check that valve, try and rig up a temp return line and see if it helps.

Yes, they can fail on only one part somehow ( don't ask me how ) but mine failed on just the supply side first and so I rigged in a set of manual valves but since I was getting ready for a long trip and the return side was still functioning, i left the return controlled by the electric and it kept working untill last week, now I went and switched tanks after not having done so in a few months and my return is stuck pointing toward the rear tank, so until the extra hose and fittings I ordered get here, I have to run off teh rear tank till it gets low, then switch the manual valve to the bed tank for a while till the return line fills the rear tank back up, then switch back over to the rear tank. When the hose gets here I'll be on all manual valves and that wil be the end of all the electric nonesense