Starting actuator replacement.

jaed_43725

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I have as you see taken apart my steering and need to replace the actuator. How do I fit the actuator into there? I tried every wiggle way possible and I can not fit it in. Thanks.
 

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jaed_43725

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It does. It basically led me to what I didn't want to do, which is tear everything apart just for a piece of pot metal.

I went to see if I could get one made from a CNC and the guy quoted me about $100. I am gonna try a few other places with the 3-D laser scanning. There is no reason it should have been made so cheaply.
 

GreenDiesel

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Do some searching around, I know I came across thread somewhere or a video on youtube that showed some way of replacing the actuator without doing all of that. It involved trimming some of the metal off of the actuator. I dont remember where I read this, sorry I cant be of more help
 

rhkcommander

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Had mine fail the same way, AFAIK they all do. I put in pushbutton starter to keep from torque'ing it again. Too bad some machinist wont make us one *hint hint* :sly;Sweet
 

jaed_43725

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If it happens again I am gonna do push button glow plugs, a arming switch, and a push button starter.

It will be a manual column as soon as I convert to manual.
 

GreenDiesel

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I think it would be nice to have a push button start option. But is anyone worried about the increased theft potential? Is there some way to negate this?

Most dueces and 5tons that I have seen(all have buttons or switches to start) use a chain around the shifter to the steering column, to lock the vehicle in reverse. Not sure what you would do for an auto... Flash back to the '90's maybe a "Club" lock
 

rhkcommander

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Key is still used for on off. Button only turns starter on off. If a thief knows these trucks you are screwed anyway. But you can always hide a toggle switch on the same wire as the starter button. Toggle off=button doesn't do squat
 

GreenDiesel

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Not to get too far off topic but, what if you used a heavy duty chain and wrapped it around the steering column and then the brake pedal secured with a padlock. Would this do anything?

My actuator is going out and I can get it to go to the ON position and even cycle the GPs without the key. I still need the key to start from the cab, but not if I jumped the solenoid...

EDIT: Guess you would have to know a thing or two to get it to shut OFF without a key lol
 
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bike-maker

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That little ******* is the ONLY thing that has resulted in me being stranded in any of my IDI's.
That's why I changed stuff around;
I used an aftermarket parts house ignition switch to replace the stocker, then a string of rocker switches for various things including manual glow plug button, manual starter switch, manual high idle, and manual cold start advance. All of the switches are powered by the ignition circuit, so none of them work unless the ignition switch is turned on. The stock ignition switch is still there, but completely useless.
 

jaed_43725

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bike-maker if you were closer I would be asking for your help. I did run into 1 problem so far. When I turn the key backwards to turn on the radio it wont turn on. I could pull the rod and it worked fine. And the teeth are all lined up correctly. So any input on this would be good.
 

bike-maker

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Mine was doing the exact same thing; this was the point where I said screw it and rigged up my own ignition switch. At first I just ran the push button starter because I couldn't get it adjusted for the ACC. position to work; I could adjust it to get either the starter to engage, or the ACC. position to work, but not both.
For the push button starter, I just clipped one wire off of the ignition switch (IIRC it was purple with a white stripe), and ran that wire to the push button. 1 other wire that was powered with the ignition on to the other side of the push button, and it was good to go.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Hot-wiring/stealing vehicles around my area went out years ago.

Now, all vehicle thefts are done with big wreckers and roll-backs; so, no amount of vehicle-contained security is of much help.

Of course, there are always those punks that jump in whatever vehicle is handy with a set of keys hanging in the ignition, but those types don't have the intellect to by-pass switches and such.


I am piece-by-piece eliminating EVERYTHING electrical from my column.

The signals have been external for some twenty years; there ain't no glow-plugs or such on any of my engines to worry with; the horns have been on a separate button for years; the radio and all such accessories have been on constant HOT since about the first week of ownership; the starter is on a push-button and the engine-kill is on a cable.

About the only functions left are the blower, A/C, wipers, and factory instrument-panel, plus un-locking the wheel.




Someone mentioned "The Club"; there is a barber-shop we own that shares a wall with the tire-shop.

Some time ago, I noticed an old dilapidated Toyota pick-up sitting in front of the barber-shop windows with "The Club" firmly locked into the steering-wheel, as if someone in this little one-light town was gonna steal it.

The truck's owner was in the chair, getting his bald-spot shaped up, and gave me a withering glare as I walked by his pride and joy; he probably was holding a gun under the sheet. LOL
 
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