Starter Issue...

[BrianW]

So I had a problem with getting the truck to start (see the "Thanks for the help" thread) and got that fixed by replacing the glow plugs.

But, while trying to start the truck the last few days on the old glow plugs, I fried the starter. It was a NAPA starter, that was about 2 years old. Not the high speed low drag fancy starters you guys recommend.

A bit of background. I had a diesel leak from the fuel filter that might have reached the starter. In any case, I noticed actual smoke coming from the starter a day before I replaced it, and a couple of the rubber o-rings (gaskets) had even partially come out of the starter, which appeared to be a sign of overheating. Operator error there!

More background... the ring around the flexplate with the teeth for the starter gear to engage has some fairly worn teeth. When I got the truck, sometimes the starter would grind when trying to start the truck. Very loud, very embarrassing in a crowd. When I replaced the starter, that problem went away. I know the teeth were still bad, but it seemed the new starter was able to overcome that problem. (bandaid fix, but cheap)

So I went back to NAPA and got a new rebuilt "premium" version starter and put it in the truck. But now, about 50% of the time when I try to start it, I get a somewhat loud "chunk" noise from the starter. It will "chunk/clunk") a few times, then engage and start fine.

I thought perhaps I'd screwed up the install, so I removed the starter and reinstalled it. While I had the battery cables disconnected, I cleaned all the connections with a wire brush, including were it connects to the starter.

So I'm trying to decide whether or not to replace the solenoid on the firewall. Thinking maybe I fried that too earlier, or go back to NAPA for a new starter.

Except for repeated attempts to start the engine, while getting the "chunk/clunk" noise, I have not abused this starter. No excessively long crank times.

Thoughts?

Try a new solenoid, or starter, or both?

Thanks!

 

[RLDSL]

How old are your batteries? are they fully charged? With all the cranking that's been done, they could probably use a session on the charger. The alternator was not designed to recharge batteries from the nubs, if it's been run down it'll need charging.
Also what is the condition of your battery cables, look them over carefully .

 

[pmelah]

you should have replaced solenoid on fire wall at same time best to be safe than sorry but i would pull starter and check it out if it still does that out then you know the problem if not i would check how far gear comes out and measure to flywheel you may be over shooting or under shooting the teeth on flywheel and maybe able to shim it (i had this problem on father-in-laws diesel car) if that's not it check flywheel this is where i would start cheapest to most expensive if that's not it i would not know where to check and would have to rely on the guys here at FTE and oilburners.net both forum sites have a bunch of good and knowledgeable guys

 

[icanfixall]

Sorry but... Its time for a new flexplate and gear. You may have an early cast iron flywheel and flex plate combo. If thats what you have then its an easy cheap fix. Napa sells the flex plate gear fr around $45.00. You drill a few holes in the old gear and chiesle it off. Then heat up te new gear in the oven (when the wife isn't home) to 250 degrees nd it drops in place easy. If its the single stamped steel flex plate , those are cheap too. Usually around 70.00. The crank bolt torque is 47 lbs and yu must use a thread sealant on those 9 bolts. Otherwise oil from thecrankcase will leak past them. I use blue loctite. Works great ad nothing ever loosens at a bad time...