stalling problem

[Wyreth]

At anything more than, IIRC, 9psi. It advances the timing, and starts hurting the IP. 1-2psi at WOT is still ok too. It's not low pressure, it's low volume need to worry about. (also, I dunno if ish just me, but that fuelpump looks like it has been leaking in that picture) If you're in the market for a new pump, Genlightning here has a hookup for the Faucet Duralift pump. ALOT of members run it, and are very very happy with it. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...rrier-Pump-Group-Buy&highlight=pump+group+buy

As far as timing goes, the timing marks on the IP and housing only mean anything for the first IP ever installed on the motor, and only when it was brand new. The IP slowly retards as it ages, and the timing is a calibration, so after a rebuild it will not be the same anyway. So retarding the pump back to that mark, is certainly not going to help. You'd hear it if it was too far advanced. Also, it will spool a turbo much better when too far retarded, but not really go anywhere. So I would say try bumping it a MM or two advanced (CCW, or toward the passenger side) and take it for a test drive. Your best bet tho, is put it on a meter, and actually time it.

As far as fuel goes, if you don't have a pyrometer, you can melt it down quick messing with the fuel screw. If you do have a pyro, then by all means go for it. 600ish for normal driving unloaded, and 1100 max when dragging something uphill is your target temp range.

 

[4x4troy]

i do have a exh temp gauge on dash. it reads just over 600 driving around. the timing is kinda confussing to me...i need a meter...what kind and how/what do you look for.

 

[hesutton]

Well, with EGT's in the 600 range, you can adjust the fuel and watch the pyrometer for any scarey temps. Still would like to know what the fuel pressure is.

Timing is done with some pretty special equipment (pluse or luminosity probe meters... or Ferret adaptor with advance adjustment timing light). Timing is likely retarded (as posted above), but no way to know until you can put a timing device on there.

Heath

 

[Wyreth]

If you're reading 600 just driving around normal, I would say you're pretty close to where you want to be fuel wise. Feel free to turn it up if you like. Just remember to watch that gauge and not to let it pass 1100* for more than a few seconds.

 

[4x4troy]

ok thanks...now i found i have rust issues...lol where the cap meet the cab their was a rubber seal...no window... well it leaked and i took off the cap to address the problem...at the bottom of the window on pass side there is about a 2"x 4" hole...rust...and the bottom of same panel where it meets the floor is not attached to floor..again rust...i guess it will be a pass-through when i am done...just gotta get so it dont flex to much and break something.....new post time...lol

 

[tanman_2006]

At anything more than, IIRC, 9psi. It advances the timing, and starts hurting the IP. 1-2psi at WOT is still ok too. It's not low pressure, it's low volume need to worry about. (also, I dunno if ish just me, but that fuelpump looks like it has been leaking in that picture) If you're in the market for a new pump, Genlightning here has a hookup for the Faucet Duralift pump. ALOT of members run it, and are very very happy with it. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...rrier-Pump-Group-Buy&highlight=pump+group+buy

Figured the IP had to be similar to the 6.2/6.5 pump. We use 12psi as our high on DB2's and anything under 2 is bad. If you are keeping good pressure on a 55gph pump then i'd say you are fine, I cant get mine below 6psi.

Timing will make a difference in EGT's