Stalled While Driving and Now Will Not Start

Twitch08

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1988 ford 7.3 IDI with Banks turbo

It stalled a couple of times when I was driving it randomly.

Then I lost power while driving on the freeway until it stalled out and would no start.

Don't think I ran out of Diesel but not 100% sure because my gauge does not work on ether tank.

I put 5 gallons of diesel in each tank but it still will not start.

Any suggestions and where to start?

Thank you.
 

Kizer

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Determine whether or not you ran out of fuel first.

If you did, then you probably have air in your fuel lines.
Search "air in fuel lines", or some-such, within the forum.
 

Selahdoor

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Mine did the same while at the shop. They figured out that crud was getting into the lines from the rear fuel tank.

Treat this as a 'start after running out of fuel', first. Bleed a couple of the injectors, etc.

If you can't get it started, then start at the fuel filter and work your way backward to the tanks, to clean out the lines, the switch, and the pickups in the tanks.
 

Twitch08

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Determine whether or not you ran out of fuel first.

If you did, then you probably have air in your fuel lines.
Search "air in fuel lines", or some-such, within the forum.

No fuel pressure at Schrader valve also cracked open the injector lines and got no fuel
 

IDIBRONCO

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Maybe a bad lift pump, a blockage at the fuel tank selector valve, maybe a blockage at the pick up in which ever tank you are running on.
 

Rusgo

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There is a small brass check valve with a clear glass ball in it on top return line of the injection pump. If your IP is old, the inners can start to degrade and clog that check valve and causing those symptoms.

You can unscrew it and shine a light through to check if it's clogged. If so, tap both sides on a wood block to get the crud out of it. Also carb cleaner.

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chillman88

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How do I test lift pump I tried both tanks

Easiest way is to run a line from a fuel can directly to the lift pump inlet. That will eliminate any problems with the tanks or lines/switching valve.

I had a similar issue with mine turn out to be the tank switch valve, if I had tried the fuel can test I wouldn't have replaced my lift pump unnecessarily....
 

IDIBRONCO

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Easiest way is to run a line from a fuel can directly to the lift pump inlet. That will eliminate any problems with the tanks or lines/switching valve.
To check to see if the lift pump is working, you'll need to do this plus I'd disconnect the hard fuel line right before the fuel filter housing. This line runs from the lift pump right to the fuel filter. With the pump drawing right from the can, if you get fuel out of he disconnected line, your lift pump is working. There is an amount that you should get from the pump after so long of cranking the engine over, but I can't remember it right now.
 

chillman88

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To check to see if the lift pump is working, you'll need to do this plus I'd disconnect the hard fuel line right before the fuel filter housing. This line runs from the lift pump right to the fuel filter. With the pump drawing right from the can, if you get fuel out of he disconnected line, your lift pump is working. There is an amount that you should get from the pump after so long of cranking the engine over, but I can't remember it right now.

Good point, although I personally would just either remove the Schrader valve on the filter or have a friend hold it open instead. That way it'll fill the filter first. To be fair, your way would be faster.
 

Rusgo

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Good point, although I personally would just either remove the Schrader valve on the filter or have a friend hold it open instead. That way it'll fill the filter first. To be fair, your way would be faster.
Sometimes I just unscrew the filter a turn or so, crank it, and check to see if fuel is on top of the filter! Lazy as ****, but seems to work. Also works well to bleed air fast up to that point.

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IDIBRONCO

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Good point, although I personally would just either remove the Schrader valve on the filter or have a friend hold it open instead. That way it'll fill the filter first. To be fair, your way would be faster.
This way you eliminate everything else like an air pocket in the filter or housing. Rusgo's method would work too. It's just hard to catch the spillage in another can doing it that way.
 

Twitch08

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Thank you, everyone, for all the help.

I got it fixed it was the fuel pump as suggested by many.

Notices a small leak coming from the metal fuel line going from the fuel pump to fuel filter, so I am going to go an try and find a replacement.

Just want to report back in case someone else searches this out

Thank you again
 

IDIBRONCO

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If you want a bandaid fix, you can remove the steel line and cut it in two. Then install a piece of rubber fuel line and a couple of hose clamps over the steel one. Put it back on the engine and then tighten the hose clamps. If you do this, clean thee pieces of the steel line out before you put it back on. Sure, you have a fuel filter to catch the steel shavings, but why not help it out?
 
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