So what did you do with your truck today?

ISPKI

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Watch out on them coatings!

Yeah looks like someone didnt prep their metal properly and just sprayed a coating over rusted metal. I scrub mine with brushes, blast it with air, clean with a solvent, then rust reform it, prime, enamel coat, then undercoat. Havent had rust come thru that yet.
 

ISPKI

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Everyone up here uses them, I wouldn't touch them with someone else's 30 foot pole!

Wont have a truck left where i'm from if you dont coat the underside with something. My coworker lost his 2009 Toyota Tundra with 62K on it to frame rot.
 

79jasper

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Hauling our newer Dodge in for a knock. It’s been an issue for a while but never seems to do it for them at the dealer. I think it’s a bad lifter. They say it’s normal and won’t damage the engine. In my experience it doesn’t take more than a few seconds to fill up lifters. Last Saturday I started it up and the noise wouldn’t go away. Seems like we are always having some type of issue with our two new vehicles (2017 & 2015) but the old stuff just works.

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Yeah, they like to eat lifters.
But also exhaust manifold leaks are a very common tick source. Another is loose spark plugs.
Even in factory form, these have a ton of valve train clearance. If I go back into mine, I'm getting adjustable rocker arms.

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bilbo

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I've had a few Hemis and the last two had issues with the manifold studs. This is more of a rapping sound. It started out only doing it for a few seconds after it had been sitting for a while. But it's been more frequent and random lately, and takes longer to go away. Sometimes I'll go in and pay for gas and it will do it after the truck has only sat 5-10 minutes. We'll see what they do. It's still under warranty so I don't want to make major changes, but I was thinking after I'm free of those chains I might look for other solutions.
 

chillman88

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Wont have a truck left where i'm from if you dont coat the underside with something. My coworker lost his 2009 Toyota Tundra with 62K on it to frame rot.

Oh I'm in NY so I know. Oil works good. I've seen too many vehicles rotted out underneath the rubberized coatings to go anywhere near them.
 

Big Bart

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Installed a new FIPL and Powermaster starter on Pearly. Did alot of clean up under the truck, scrubbed the frame and other areas and coated them in plastidip.

Found that the flexplate is chewed to pieces and most of the teeth are half chewed off on account of the starter only having 1 bolt holding it on...probably. SO picked up a new flexplate from my local and going to install this weekend.

Also mounted my driver side west coast tow mirror with an all SS frame from Finditparts. Sketchy website but they have a tube frame supposedly made in the US by Navistar for 50$ and it fit great.

That Powermaster starter spins up so hard I thought it was going to toss my old flexplate out of the truck.

I run a Powermaster starter and alt (GM style) in my Jeep. I think you will like your new starter, not cheap but well made.


As I recall the instructions mentioned to get them to uphold the warranty, you have to ship it back in the same box it came in. Double check, if so save that box!


After I bought the Alt, I had to get the back plate turned 180 degrees. (Connectors where on the wrong side for my application. Powermaster only sells it one way. Most Alt's have two part numbers to avoid needing to do this.) The alt shop flipped it and then tested after. The owner of the shop said, darn that thing runs hot. (Not literally, rather puts out a lot of power early and often. Which is good when running lots of night lights or a winch.)


The starter works great too. Sometimes with Jeeping in a pinch if you have a stick, you can use the starter to help you move into position or out of a jam. (Only in 4 low.) So wanted something durable.
 

Big Bart

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Hauling our newer Dodge in for a knock. It’s been an issue for a while but never seems to do it for them at the dealer. I think it’s a bad lifter. They say it’s normal and won’t damage the engine. In my experience it doesn’t take more than a few seconds to fill up lifters. Last Saturday I started it up and the noise wouldn’t go away. Seems like we are always having some type of issue with our two new vehicles (2017 & 2015) but the old stuff just works.

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Bilbo,


Sorry to hear that. After my 2006 F250 gasser was stolen I was looking around for a used truck. F250/F150 Super Crews are not cheap around here. Found some inexpensive Dodge 1500's 4 doors with Hemi's. (A little older than yours.) Many of the cheap ones where suggesting the truck had a knock, lifter issue, or camshaft issue. Watched some video's many folks complaining they needed a new cam and lifters at 130,000-190,000 miles. So clearly RAM had some going on with the Hemi power plant. So steered clear and eventually found a decent deal on a F150 super crew. So I would not take there dismissal lightly and push them to fix it and under warranty or split it if out of warranty.


I have found often to get the action you need, you have to -


1) Try another dealer who is more accommodating. Some dealers don't like discounted warranty work. Others just are better at getting it approved. Or have seen dozens like yours, now they just tell you what is wrong and you can address it.

2) Ask the dealer for Dodge's district manager's contact info. Often the dealer will try to avoid doing so, rather suggest they will call him. But ask that he calls you. You could call Dodge directly and try to find him/her too. He has the power to say fix it we will pay or split.

3) Recently I helped out my father in law. His Chevy 4500 box truck tranny went out at 63,000 miles and under 3 years. (Warranty was good to 60,000mi, but this truck should have made it to at least 90K.) It threw a code that is not erasable with a OBDII scanner. (New laws) So you could not drive the truck. Truck delivers furniture so light and easy loads. They said $7,500 to replace it but you get a 5 year 100k warranty. (Guessing you need one!) I said have Chevy call me, this is ridiculous. Then the dealer said if you want Chevy to assist you have to pay to remove and tear it down. (On the hook for $3K) But if Chevy declines you eat the tear down because we only replace. I said do it and tell Chevy here is his list of Chevy cars and work Van's he has and does own. He is happy to go to Ford if Chevy won't step up when their trucks don't even make it to 90K. They basically called back a few days later and said Chevy will split the cost saving my father in law about $3,800.


So get ready for battle. There will be some games but stick with it! They know they have to make you happy if they want to sell you another Dodge. (Even if you don't plan to buy another one!) Doubt this is a one off they can dismiss as "We don't see that often".
 

Selahdoor

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Oh I'm in NY so I know. Oil works good. I've seen too many vehicles rotted out underneath the rubberized coatings to go anywhere near them.
You know how they used to make candles? Dip a string in molten wax. Hang it to let it dry. Dip it again. Let it dry. Etc...

Well it's too bad none of the manufacturers take a bare frame, and dip it in "Ospho" or something similar. Dipping so that the entire frame gets filled up as well, then hang to dry, and do that several times before building the rest of the truck from there.

I've never seen metal rust after being correctly treated with that stuff. Even when left out in the elements. And you know when it is good, because it turns black. With maybe a white sheen too it.
 

bilbo

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Bilbo,


Sorry to hear that. After my 2006 F250 gasser was stolen I was looking around for a used truck. F250/F150 Super Crews are not cheap around here. Found some inexpensive Dodge 1500's 4 doors with Hemi's. (A little older than yours.) Many of the cheap ones where suggesting the truck had a knock, lifter issue, or camshaft issue. Watched some video's many folks complaining they needed a new cam and lifters at 130,000-190,000 miles. So clearly RAM had some going on with the Hemi power plant. So steered clear and eventually found a decent deal on a F150 super crew. So I would not take there dismissal lightly and push them to fix it and under warranty or split it if out of warranty.


I have found often to get the action you need, you have to -


1) Try another dealer who is more accommodating. Some dealers don't like discounted warranty work. Others just are better at getting it approved. Or have seen dozens like yours, now they just tell you what is wrong and you can address it.

2) Ask the dealer for Dodge's district manager's contact info. Often the dealer will try to avoid doing so, rather suggest they will call him. But ask that he calls you. You could call Dodge directly and try to find him/her too. He has the power to say fix it we will pay or split.

3) Recently I helped out my father in law. His Chevy 4500 box truck tranny went out at 63,000 miles and under 3 years. (Warranty was good to 60,000mi, but this truck should have made it to at least 90K.) It threw a code that is not erasable with a OBDII scanner. (New laws) So you could not drive the truck. Truck delivers furniture so light and easy loads. They said $7,500 to replace it but you get a 5 year 100k warranty. (Guessing you need one!) I said have Chevy call me, this is ridiculous. Then the dealer said if you want Chevy to assist you have to pay to remove and tear it down. (On the hook for $3K) But if Chevy declines you eat the tear down because we only replace. I said do it and tell Chevy here is his list of Chevy cars and work Van's he has and does own. He is happy to go to Ford if Chevy won't step up when their trucks don't even make it to 90K. They basically called back a few days later and said Chevy will split the cost saving my father in law about $3,800.


So get ready for battle. There will be some games but stick with it! They know they have to make you happy if they want to sell you another Dodge. (Even if you don't plan to buy another one!) Doubt this is a one off they can dismiss as "We don't see that often".


Yep it sucks but it is what it is. Not our first rodeo though. The previous truck was also a Dodge but had air ride. There were a lot of exchanges with the dealer, and FCA, with that one. It's always a bit depressing when it seems like nobody will stand behind their product. Dealers, manufacturer, everyone. I don't take a $40,000 purchase decision lightly but sometimes I feel like they do.
 

jrollf

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Yeah looks like someone didnt prep their metal properly and just sprayed a coating over rusted metal. I scrub mine with brushes, blast it with air, clean with a solvent, then rust reform it, prime, enamel coat, then undercoat. Havent had rust come thru that yet.
The issue with rubberized coatings... even if proper surface prep is done, there is a risk that the coating can get damaged, such a kicked up rock or road debris, then water gets into the cut. Once this happens the rubber coating keeps the water trapped between it and the frame, actually promoting rust.

With the research I've done, including those that do professional corrosion protection in ballast tanks on ships, a product like Fluid Film is much better at protecting metal from corrosion. The down side is Fluid Film is not a once and done, depending on your environment, a yearly application may be needed. Another advantage is Fluid Film type products will seep into small seems and crevices that rubber undercoats won't.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-P...uid+film&qid=1622829858&sprefix=Fluid+&sr=8-5

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Big Bart

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Bilbo,

It's like the Automakers think their reputation will not matter, you are so brand loyal you won't buy a competitors truck, and its ok they built a inferior platform with faults and you should share in the pain. (I wonder why Toyota trucks are becoming more and more popular!)

I was visiting a cousin a few years ago who works for a Ford dealer. They had the whole cab up off a Super Crew F350 diesel. Asked if they were pulling the engine. He said no, just fixing an oil leak on the engine. You had to pull the cab I asked, he said yes, it was faster. Is Ford participating in this, he said no. How many miles? He said around 70Kmi. I asked what is that oil leak going to cost the owner? He said aorund $6k.

That oil leak should not have happened that soon. If you have to remove the whole cab, Ford should make things more bullet proof. It's one thing at 250,000mi to fix something pricy. But not in the first 100,000 miles.
 

Danielle

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I worked in dealers as a warranty admin for a while. My advice is never ever deal directly with a dealer if first visit doesn't fix it.

Call corporate, get a case number. Dealers hate it because now they will have to document a repair for the case to close. Too many open cases and dealers lose some of their incentives.

My first dealer lost their Blue Oval status because of too many open cases and **** CSI scores. That meant they had to return all their SVT vehicles and couldn't sell any until they regained their Blue Oval!

Anyway having an open case also helps you document how many visits you have to have to resolve a case.

Too many visits throws up a bunch of red flags. One of the consequences is the techs all have to all take the beginner diag factory courses again. And a lot of my peers could use that :/ At VW when I began they were doing so bad we all had to take courses to understand the JD power award and how to get a good score!!

Getting pulled off a busy flat rate line to get paid straight time for a BS course is something you do not want to repeat!
 

Big Bart

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I worked in dealers as a warranty admin for a while. My advice is never ever deal directly with a dealer if first visit doesn't fix it.

Call corporate, get a case number. Dealers hate it because now they will have to document a repair for the case to close. Too many open cases and dealers lose some of their incentives.

My first dealer lost their Blue Oval status because of too many open cases and **** CSI scores. That meant they had to return all their SVT vehicles and couldn't sell any until they regained their Blue Oval!

Anyway having an open case also helps you document how many visits you have to have to resolve a case.

Too many visits throws up a bunch of red flags. One of the consequences is the techs all have to all take the beginner diag factory courses again. And a lot of my peers could use that :/ At VW when I began they were doing so bad we all had to take courses to understand the JD power award and how to get a good score!!

Getting pulled off a busy flat rate line to get paid straight time for a BS course is something you do not want to repeat!


Thank you for the usefull insights! I will keep this all in mind for next time!
 

Stu Bailey

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Finally got the bedside spare tire mounted. All thanks to @firehonomichl !
Original plan was to mount tire in bed and install 38 gal tank below but previous owner had welded a sturdy tow support bar in the way. In hindsight I should have looked before I got all excited about the project. But either way, I’m super stoked I can still lock my spare tire and have easy access to it as well.

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