slower starting than before?

[Ole BlackBetty]

I have had this truck about two weeks, when I first bought it, it would start instantly, with no smoke from pipe. When I purchased this truck, it had a fuel leak from the filter. I originally thought the lift pump was leaking, so I bought and installed a new airtex pump and installed it. I had to loosen the injectors pipes to get it started afterwards. I then replaced the fuel filter, which fixed the leak. now every time I start the truck, it takes longer to crank and puts out a little white smoke, when it first starts. once it is started, it runs great and no smoke. Anyone know what the problem might be? 1994 7.3 IDI turbo. I have also replaced, air filter, and oil change.

 

[Hydro-idi]

More than likely your glowplug system is having issues. If you see old glowplugs in engine, it would be a good idea to replace them. Is your wait to start light turning on when they key is turned?? It could be GP harness, glowplugs themselves, GP controller, or GP relay. Your symptoms sound like you need some fresh glowsticks.

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

PO told me, glowplugs and injectors had just been replaced, for what its worth. WTS light does come on, and I can hear a clicking noise in engine compartment before I crank engine, I'm assuming the noise is GP solinoid.

 

[Wyreth]

White puffs out the tailpipe while trying to start is most times a glowplug issue.

Yes, the clicking is the GP contractor. That does not mean it's good tho.

How long is the WTS light staying on? If it's less than 5 seconds on a cold engine, that's often a sign you have at least one bad GP. (new does not mean good)
If you have a test light, then you can test them really simply. Just hook the clip to B+ then unplug and touch the ends of your GP's one by one. Light = Good. (Also pull one, and check to see what brand they are. If they are not Botch or Motorcraft Beru, REPLACE THEM WITH MOTERCRAFTS. You risk major engine damage otherwise)

Next with the same light, clip to ground, then shove it into one of the GP boots. Then turn the key on. If you have a problem with the contractor, that may show it to you by not lighting up.

Also, inspect the plug on the passenger side. It should have two, IIRC, 10gage yellow wires that lead to your glowplug controller. (Careful as these are constant hot) Turn the key on, and then go feel the plug while the WTS light is on. If it gets hot, that's a problem. This plug is often a failure point, and could cause your glowplugs to not get enough current to heat properly.

 

[opusd2]

Yeah, you can definitely take to the bank the advice that if a relay is clicking that it may not be working as it should. I lost a starter due to that, there wasn't enough voltage running through it so the amperage spiked and burned out the starter. So what that means to your GPs is that they may not be getting the voltage needed to warm up enough.

In the "olden" days, we used to drill out the rivets and check out the contacts, clean them if necessary, and put the relay back together. But I'm just a poor farm boy

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

Thanks for your responses, haven't had a chance to check the glow plugs yet, its been pretty busy around here

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

I finally had a chance to check out GP system, useing your advice and a Haynes manual. With the test light, all my GP's light up, so I am assuming they are all good, I did not pull one to see what brand they are. Per the Haynes manual prosess for checking the GP relay using a voltmeter/ Ohm meter, and test light. Everything passed the test, but when I stick the test light in the GP harness lead, and turn on key, the light glows bright the first time for about 2-3 seconds, weather temps around 100 degrees here. But as the GP relay cycles ( clicks) after the first lighting of GP, the light just barely glows as the GP clicks about once per second.
What are your thoughts on this?

 

[Wyreth]

It sounds like the contacts in your GP contactor are failing. The light should be just as bright during the afterglow cycle as it does during the initial glow cycle, even if it is just a flash.

You can just replace the contactor, without replacing the whole controller. Personally I would use a starter solenoid. It is the same thing, and is rated at the same load ranges. Personally, I think ford used the same part. Just, carefully, pull it out of the controller. Then take it in to a parts place, and tell them to find you a ford starter solenoid that looks exactly like it. Re-install, and see what happens. Worst case is your out $10-15 and you have a new contactor. However, that sounds like it could be the problem.

You did check the supply plug? It doesn't get hot?

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

I looked all around the wiring loom and tried to trace where it went, for 12 volt power. I could not find the plug, the hot wire appears to enter the wire loom and go toward the drivers side. If you could help me pinpoint it, that would be great.