Semi Float Dana 60

Agnem

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So this past weekend, I got my hands on what was supposed to be a 3.08 Dana 61 8 lug rear out of a mid 80's F-250. Come to discover it was not the full floating rear I was expecting, but instead is the semi-floating version. 8 lugs, all of them 1/2" instead of 9/16". The drums were welded to the brake shoes, so it was only after smacking myself on the forehead with a pry bar that I managed to get one of the drums off. This allowed me to at least see that the gears felt OK. Once I get the other drum off, I'll know if it is indeed a 3.08. God I hope it is. This has been a PITA so far. Assuming that it is, I'm confronted with the fact that I'm putting a lighter duty rear in place of the one coming out, and I will have 1/2" studs on the back, and 9/16" studs on the front. Not good, since the wheels we want to run have stainless 9/16" nuts for them. So I'm figuring I could just swap out the studs. A little drilling of the axle flange, and brake drum should allow me to do that. Anybody see any issues with this idea?
 

Goofyexponent

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I can't see an issue with it. If the drum is held tightly in place to prevent moving, and the holes are drilled stright on, what would be the difference between that and a new axle flange without studs installed from new?

I say go for it!
 

Agnem

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Kinda what I figured, and the drum is hub centered anyway. The only drag will be if a drum is ever needed on the road, it can't be changed out in the parking lot of the autoparts store unless a drill and bit are handy.
 

hesutton

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Had that axle in my gasser '83 F250. I hauled several tons in the bed of that truck, but it always made me nervous with that much weight on a semi-floating axle. I had 3.55's though. If you aren't hauling much with the rig, you should be fine.

No reason not to swap the studs to 9/16. Go for it.

Heath
 

subway

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i got a semi float in the back of my crew cab now. it has the heaver studs in it, as long as you have the meat to drill around the stud hole you should be fine. just make sure the hole is straight and true so the lug can seat properly.
 

Drew2010

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when I did the SAS in my 96, the HD dana44 had 1/2 inch studs, I pulled 9/16 studs from a donor dana 50. I drilled my hubs out to 39/64 for the studs. been probably 10,000 miles with countless times taking the wheels off, no problems so far. I know your working with a rear axle, but I dont know why it should really differ.

Oh and if you have to buy an odd ball sized bit, just hit up amazon, I went to fastenall and they quoted me at about 30 bucks for a 39/64 bit. I found some generic ones on amazon and they were less then six bucks, I bought two thinking I may dull one, but one did the job just fine. It really doesnt take much out of the hole to fit the 9/16 studs. Just thought I would share, because I couldnt find a reason to spend 30 dollars on a bit I would use one time.

Heres a pic of the studs installed. it doesnt really show much, but everyone loves pictures
 

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crashnzuk

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You may find that you can upsize your studs without drilling. A common mod on first gen Dodge diesels is upsizing the studs from 1/2 to 9/16. Only thing required is the right studs and a bunch of time.
Travis..
 

ocnorb

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This may help- I have a semi-float Dana 60 (disk brakes) out of a 2001 Ford Van (Guessing an E-350 as it was an airport shuttle van). I just walked out and checked the lugs are 9/16-18.

Might give you a place to start...:dunno
 

Agnem

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Let's see... answers... yes, Towcat called it. This is for the Scarlet Moose which has 4:10's, a T-19 and will never really haul anything. Trying to get the RPM's down for fuel economy. I put 3:08's in the Moosestang and love them. Yes, I noticed the axle was thinner. Thankfully, we got the plates and a sample U-bolt with it. I see some of you have swapped studs... does anybody know the correct lenght? Graham is doing the body lift on the Scarlet Moose right now. Bed is off... fuel tanks and senders are being repaired. Hoping to get the axle on this weekend.
 

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