Scored this today...

homelessduck

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Thanks guys. I'll just plug it for now. I'm hoping the tanks are just super full and there isn't an issue with the senders..lol. It does fluctuate a hair when I switch tanks. Grabbing a master cylinder today and should be able to drive it this evening . :D Tach is also not working but I have a new one to toss on.
 

laserjock

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There is a Teflon oring that goes on the high pressure line. Mine got chewed up last time apparently so now I need to find one.
 

homelessduck

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I ended up finding it on the shelf at AutoZone. It's tightened but the hose still swivels , not sure if its suppose to be able to freely move..

So I forgot to change the coolant temp switch that is behind the upper coolant neck.. It can't be changed without pulling the accessories and neck.. So, is it possible to just run it to a toggle? Then I can flip it on in the mornings manually.
 

laserjock

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Yes it's possible but I think you can get it from the back side of the IP and lines aren't installed yet. I made that mistake. You can switch it to 12v as well.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You can unplug that switch, use a long 3/8 drive extension and a short 7/8" socket, hammer the socket down onto the switch to bend the prongs over and then you can use a ratchet to remove it.
 

homelessduck

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Well almost a month later and I still haven't been able to drive it.lol. It's basically done though. The gauges are not working very well. The volts read way low but it's charging , the oil pressure reads way low, but mechanical says 50psi. The fuel gauge reads way past full... I'm wondering if this is all related.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Yes it's probably all related. There is a voltage regulator in the instrument cluster that acts up. This is the reason that a lot of us recommend using real gauges. The factory gauges aren't much better than idiot lights. My fuel gauge will go way past full too. It takes 70-80 miles to drop past the full mark. I just learned to live with it.
 

homelessduck

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Ya I know these gauges are about useless. I will be installing gauges soon. It just bugs me. All of my other trucks have at least read within a normal range. Hopefully it's just a loose connection.
 

homelessduck

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Well this evening was interesting... I finally tried to take the truck for a test drive today.. Brakes were soft but I drove it any way. I live on the side of a mountain and my driveway is STEEP so I put it in low and creeped down. Got back, thought everything was gravy.. until I noticed a leak. Thought it was fuel, no biggy.. Nope. It's leaking coolant at the head gasket. So ya, it will be for sale here soon if anyone is interested..
 

hesutton

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My worry would be a warp at the cylinder deck somewhere. Had that issue on my 6.9. Bad head gasket. Pulled the engine, new head gaskets, added ARP head studs. Put it back together and had it ready to haul my 5th wheel to PA to Mel's rally. 30 miles from home, coolant was covering my driver's side mirror. Head gasket failed again!!!!

Turns out the block deck at cylinder #1 was warped just enough to prevent the fire ring from sealing well. The gasket was burnt out going to the water jacket in the front corner of the block. Had to have the block decks machined to fix it. Been running like a champ since.

Heath
 
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homelessduck

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I had the heads checked out so it would definitely be an issue on the block side. Unfortunately I do not have the time, money, or desire to pull it and have it machined right now. So it will have to sit or go to a new home. I am going to try bumping the torque from 100 to 110 and see if it stops leaking. It isn't mixing in the oil or cylinder, just leaking out the side.
 

homelessduck

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Wow, what a huge blessing.. I tore in to it today to re torque the heads. I got the alternator off and noticed the coolant hose clamp wasn't tight. The part of the head I thought was leaking is directly below. So I hurried up and threw it back together, started it and let it warm up..NO LEAK! :Thumbs Up
 

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