return fuel line kit

[balsambandit]

hi I have a 86 350 with a 7.3 idi. I replaced the return lines and plastic fittings on injectors maybe 3 years ago, and today it started leaking again. my question for you guys is what kit you suggest? I used the Napa one but wasn't 100% impressed with the fit/ seemed kind of cheap. thanks for any replys

 

[Macrobb]

Use wheel bearing grease liberally on the O-rings as you install them, and inside of each cap. That will lubricate the O-ring and provide a better seal than Vasoline or something that dissolves.

The Viton O-rings are impervious to grease, and it really does work amazingly well.

 

[Golden Helmet]

Here you go. The standard return line kit is what you need. You can also get the exact same kit from typ4 / Russ, probably for a better price. I originally used a kit from O'Reilly's when I had my IP and injectors replaced, but my IP didn't want to run out of the box so some "extra steps" had to be performed, which quickly put an end to that return kit. I drove it for a month with it pouring diesel all over itself (and amazingly, despite the massive leaks, I never once had air intrusion symptoms ), finally put one of Russ's kits on it and it's been dry ever since.

As for lube for the o-rings, you'll hear 100 different suggestions on what to use. Vaseline, bearing grease, lithium grease, ATF, motor oil, KY Jelly, it all works. When I did mine I used clean motor oil and had no problems, but I can see why a thick grease would be preferable. Just make sure your caps are 100% seated, if you don't feel them pop in to place then chances are it's not fully seated. I had some trouble seating the caps by hand, so I put an open-ended wrench over the cap and gave it a love tap from another wrench and that did the trick.

 

[balsambandit]

thanks for the reply looks like quality stuff

 

[typ4]

I have them in stock.

 

[kevstar1212]

Here you go. The standard return line kit is what you need. You can also get the exact same kit from typ4 / Russ, probably for a better price. I originally used a kit from O'Reilly's when I had my IP and injectors replaced, but my IP didn't want to run out of the box so some "extra steps" had to be performed, which quickly put an end to that return kit. I drove it for a month with it pouring diesel all over itself (and amazingly, despite the massive leaks, I never once had air intrusion symptoms ), finally put one of Russ's kits on it and it's been dry ever since.

As for lube for the o-rings, you'll hear 100 different suggestions on what to use. Vaseline, bearing grease, lithium grease, ATF, motor oil, KY Jelly, it all works. When I did mine I used clean motor oil and had no problems, but I can see why a thick grease would be preferable. Just make sure your caps are 100% seated, if you don't feel them pop in to place then chances are it's not fully seated. I had some trouble seating the caps by hand, so I put an open-ended wrench over the cap and gave it a love tap from another wrench and that did the trick.

Asking about the air intrusion. Symptom ? I’m looking at buying a truck that’s running really rough and appears to be a good sized leak on the back side of the pump and on top of the valley. Just curious if it is possible that it could be air intrusion and not need a new IP and injectors.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. After three years a leak is not that uncommon. Please note the idi engine can use 2 different size o ring return line kits.Best way to know what size you have is look at the color of the clamps.Green is the small and red is the large.Do not mix and match them on the same system. The large wont seal on the small fittings and the large wont fit on the small fittings. I recommend you use an exact o knife to clean off any molding flash on the lip where the o ring first touches the plastic cap. Sometimes this flash can cut or nick the o ring. Always install the top o ring in the top groove first. then roll the lower o ring down over the top of the installed o ring Viton o rings are the best way to go.

 

[Golden Helmet]

Asking about the air intrusion. Symptom ? I’m looking at buying a truck that’s running really rough and appears to be a good sized leak on the back side of the pump and on top of the valley. Just curious if it is possible that it could be air intrusion and not need a new IP and injectors.

The classic sign of air intrusion is when you start the truck, it'll run for a few seconds, them stumble and die. Once it dies, it'll take a ton of cranking to bring it back to life because the system needs to be primed, but eventually it'll fire back up, albeit with some stumbling until the last of the air is purged.

Air intrusion can show its ugly face in other ways too, but that's the most common sign of air in the system.

 

[chillman88]

Asking about the air intrusion. Symptom ? I’m looking at buying a truck that’s running really rough and appears to be a good sized leak on the back side of the pump and on top of the valley. Just curious if it is possible that it could be air intrusion and not need a new IP and injectors.

It's possible. If it's sucking air in there. Post up a new thread and we can better walk you through it.

 

[raydav]

My van came with a 460. I bought an 89 for it's IDI. I installed it as is, I did not touch the fuel system. That worked fine.

Then I decided to do preventive maintenance by replacing the return system. We then spent a month on a cross country chasing fuel leaks. That included buying a lot of O rings from various places. I even resorted to Teflon tape to get home.

There are kits where the plastic fittings do not match the included O rings. So there is not a tight seal and they leak.

And after working on one leak in a rest stop, I was not able to start for six hours until someone came along with a can of brake cleaner.

Delphi 7135-276 works well here. It actually takes a bit of force to install them. And the fuel path is alongside the downstream injector rather than thru it. And yes you need to lube with something to avoid O ring damage; oil, grease anything.

 

[nelstomlinson]

Somebody sells a solid rail return kit. Has anyone used that? Does it last longer than the hoses?

Edited to add, I'm thinking of the billet kit by R&D: http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p85/Billet_Injector_Fuel_Return_Rails_.html