Return check valve
- Thread starter Scrench
- Start date
Macrobb
Full Access Member
It more than likely doesn't work anyhow, so yeah, you can do it.
However, if you do have issues, install a new check valve into the supply line just before the fuel filter.
However, if you do have issues, install a new check valve into the supply line just before the fuel filter.
Remove it and just put a plug in place of the barb fitting. With the ball removed all the fuel pressure just flows out the return.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
The only thing I don't like about this is that it does make priming slower if you run out of fuel / get air in the line.
The return has a metered orifice(small pinhole in it), so you don't lose "all the fuel pressure" - the check ball just tries to prevent drainback.
Ive experienced the opposite, longer cranking with it in place and fuel pressure issues with it gutted. Any small seep in the return lines empties the fuel filter out and fills it with air if the ball is gone, which makes it harder to start since theres air in the supply side as well as the return. Its personal preference, the best solution is to delete the stock filter head all together.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Which is why I said you need to install a check valve in the supply side. Fuel won't drain out of a bowl unless it can siphon; this means you need both air in the return side, and a lack of a stop on the supply side. Either of those(drawing a vacuum on the return side, or a check valve on the supply) will prevent *any* drainback.
It actually starts just bumping the starter now. Starting much much easier. But now it is surging when I am driving and it's not falling back . It takes it a little bit could that be in my governor adjustment. Thanks for the replys
A check valve fixes a lot of priming issues, if only there was a vendor who sold such a thing 
Remember air doesnt just come from the supply side, anywhere it can pull some air it will dump the fuel out the return lines and fill the fuel filter with air. Fuel heater, water drain, fuel olives all will allow it to drain back even with a check valve in place. I prefer to delete the return line because of this, and theres ford service bulletins that describe this mod because of the benefits in priming time, imo it helps more than it hurts.
Remember air doesnt just come from the supply side, anywhere it can pull some air it will dump the fuel out the return lines and fill the fuel filter with air. Fuel heater, water drain, fuel olives all will allow it to drain back even with a check valve in place. I prefer to delete the return line because of this, and theres ford service bulletins that describe this mod because of the benefits in priming time, imo it helps more than it hurts.
Have you messed with the governor? Typically surging while driving is the metering valve trying to make up for a lack of fuel pressure under load. Adjusting the droop will make it less sensitive, but it will just be masking the real issue which is fuel pressure loss.
Yes I turned it almost all of the way in
What did you turn in? The guide stud adjustment or the 1/2" hex on the minimax under the top cover?
Okay, Ive had that issue with the engine bucking when driving after that adjustment and its always been a lack of fuel pressure. You can replace your fuel filter and see if it improves, or adjust back from where its at now until the surging stops. It would be helpful to rig up a fuel pressure gauge that you can see while driving so you can see whats happening under load.
