Resurrecting a "Dead" 6.9".

snicklas

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As for these batteries being fine because they came from the 6.0.. Not so fast there.. the 6.0 has a much lower cranking pressure than out idi has. We have 21 to 1 compression at as much as 530 lbs like my engine. the 6.0 has maybe 17 to 1 compression ratio at whatever lbs cranking.. I do not know.

Yes/no. 6.0's are really finicky when it comes to batteries. Lol

Very true...... marginal batteries, like Gary just dealt with, normally will cost you a FICM......... don't ask how I know that......... mine now, first time it won't start, the batteries get replaced........
 

Cruiseomatic

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Ordering new POS cable this weekend to replace the stock cable I got from a salvage yard with destroyed terminals I had to melt off just to have the ability to use the one from starter to battery. The cross cable is too short for anything. I put one of my 6.0 batteries on charge for 30 minutes, pulled it off, put it on 6.9 and hit it with no GP. Spun at proper speed. Let the surface charge die off, and back to normal...But I think other than the battery fire, The IP was another reason this truck was parked. Not getting fuel at injectors and weak stream at return but strong at schrader valve. New filter also.
 

Cruiseomatic

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To add, with the iffy IP, my dash gauges are completely off. Water temp should not move when cranking reflecting oil pressure, volt gauge never moves about 8, and on a slow crank tach will sometimes show 200 rpms, oil pressure doesn't move at all but it did once. I took all next week off at work so should I "strip" engine bay down and re-check all the wiring since there was mouse damage that I THOUGHT I fixed, I also have a connector that was trashed I tried to fix, I believe it is the frame harness plug. I need a walkthrough on the electrical restoration on this truck...and the mechanical. Would be really good if I could find a factory service manual for both my '87 and '89. Anyone in the Houston area with some free time to help keep another ford on the road?
 
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riotwarrior

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Ebay for manuals

Thats good place to start.

Just need 3 wires fire engine..

Why wouod uou attempt spraying diesel down intake...no one here would suggest that. It can hydrolock your engine or worse you might bed a rod or two. There is no way you can attomize diesl fine enough that it couod possibly work....

Not even 1 second spritz of either....if spinning fast a couple 1/2 second spritz should suffice to see if fire...if not getting fuel it likely wont run

Good luck
 

Cruiseomatic

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Because my patience is growing thin with this engine. I'm tearing it down this weekend... And one spray 6" above the intake won't kill it. Especially given this same engine sat for however long with a rotted hood seal and no air filter assembly before I got it. If by next week it will not run, good chance the vultures will have a chance at it.
 
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dgr

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I would use fumes off a gas soaked rag before squirting diesel in the intake. Don't let it get too big a whiff as diesel rpms are only controlled by the amount of fuel fed to the engine. Remember to disconnect the glow plug relay
 

Thewespaul

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I'll take it if you're frustrated with it ;Sweet

These engines can be temperamental when the entire fuel system has sat for so long, if you plan on making a reliable daily driver out of this truck, I would just rebuff the fuel system if youre fuel looks like rust so dropping tanks cleaning them and replacing everything rubber and plastic on the fuel system. I can understand wanting to get the engine to start first but do so by only recommended means, I've seen precups blown through engines because someone used either and gps :puke:
 

Cruiseomatic

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Already dropped the front tank about 8 months ago and DAMN! Tank is crumby type rusted, sending units are shot, all new fuel lines are being done. Right now, a temporary fuel system has been made to test light this engine.
 

icanfixall

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Glad you are using a temp fuel tank but from what you posted. You might have pushed some rust and possibly algae into the injection pump.
 

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