Resurrecting a "Dead" 6.9".

[CDX825]

I would just fill it up with oil and get it running. Unless you know for a fact the inside is excessively dirty there is no point in atf or MMO. Also hot oil cleans better than cold oil so until you get it up to temp its not going to do much good.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Damn. I already did a mix of 2 quarts MMO, 2 quarts ATF, 7 quarts Rotella 15w-40. No fuel yet but spun her over by starter. Tach reads about 200 RPMs and my oil pressure and temp gauges are backwards. Cranking my temp gauge is jumping all in the middle while the oil pressure gauge is dead. Volt meter is also just barely above "dead". But, If the "temp" gauge is reading as my oil pressure, then she has just the right amount. When I get a temporary fuel tank setup in a little bit I'll try it again.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

When bleeding the fuel system, what is the proper way to do it?

 

[dgr]

You mean the fuel supply system? I already detailed how to bleed the injection lines. Since air is very compressible, it is really important to get as much out of the hard lines as you can.

Run your electric pump until you have a solid stream returning to your temp fuel container. Press the schraeder until it spits fuel.. If the fuel filter is full of fuel and there is a couple of pounds of pressure going to the injection pump, you have what you need to get it to fire.

I don't see the point of the mmo atf in there. Now that oil has to be tossed. I wouldn't run the engine for any length of time on diluted oil. To each his own.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Pump I bought to test didn't do ANYTHING. Just buzzed. However, I hit it with a wiff of "starting fluid" and she kicked a few times. BUT, when I took a spray bottle and sprayed fuel into the intake, Nothing. Might of been turning over to slow, might of been to rich, might of been anything. Also, When she was kicking, A few times I felt a hard BUMP and it would return to normal. She did try to start though. But very little. My gauges are also totally out of wack. But that's later.

 

[CDX825]

Don't spray fuel into the intake. That's how you cause a runaway.

Loosen all your injector lines and crank it over. Like mentioned once you get fuel coming out of the lines tighten them back up. These things can be a real bear to get bled of air so leave a few lines loose till its running then tighten them all back up.

Another thing instead of putting a ton of stress on the glow plugs you can plug in the block heater and get the engine warm. That will make things a bit easier.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Block heater is non-existent. Thinking of pulling all the glow plugs and disabling the controller for easier cranking to bleed the IP lines now that I found a working pump. Doesn't help the fact the fan is not a blur as it should be. It's more like a semi-blur. You can still see it but its blurry. Batteries are good, Cables are factory but salvage. So I know I also have a slow crank issue. The oil mixture is just for now. It is NOT for long term use.

 

[icanfixall]

Wow... If when spritzing with starter fluid you hear a bump when cranking.. I'd say you did too much fluid and locked up the engine. Please do not do that. I one second spray into the intake is all you need.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

No, not hear but felt like twice and it wasn't hard. And she isn't locked. Still spins just slow as usual. Kind of think the starter is getting weak.

 

[DaveBen]

Your batteries are weak. Charge them or get two new batteries. Batteries are the No. One cause of 'no start'! With winter coming up you will see a LOT of slow cranking comments along with no starts.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Not the batteries. Pulled them out of my 6.0 and they crank it fine. And the bumps were more like sudden stops then continue just fast. If that makes any sense.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes the way you explain the "bumps" sounds like the engine got too much starter fluid and it preignited slowing down the piston as it came to top dead center.
As for these batteries being fine because they came from the 6.0.. Not so fast there.. the 6.0 has a much lower cranking pressure than out idi has. We have 21 to 1 compression at as much as 530 lbs like my engine. the 6.0 has maybe 17 to 1 compression ratio at whatever lbs cranking.. I do not know.
Now as for slow cranking with "known good batteries".. Can you be sure the cables are up to the task of passing enough voltage and amps to start? Are the claps in good shape and contact eith the posts? Then finally what condition is the starter in? Try charging the batteries. Thats the cheapest easy thing to do. then is you still have slow cranking check by feel each battery clamp. the hot or warm one is a bad connection cating resistance and high temps trying to pass enough amps. The engine wire harness plug can get so hot from amps trying to feed the solid state glow plug controller that it melts causing an electrical fire. Trucks have burned to the ground because of this issue. If the starter was "used" and over cranked it might be dead.

 

[snicklas]

...I have a 6.0 that is never driven and has now developed a rattle when it hits a bump.

This would need to be continued in the 6.0 forum..... however, rattle when it hits a bump..... first thing I would check is the ball joints...... playing that game on mine right now.......

I know you are trying to get the IDI running, but if you are desperate for a running vehicle, the 6.0 may be easier to get on the road.......

 

[Cruiseomatic]

No, I've got a DD. The 6.0 is a "spare" truck. 2004 F350 CCLB Lariat with 38K highway miles. The IDI was SUPPOSED to be a "short" project truck.... I did pull 6 of the GPs I could get out. The ones under the injector lines I couldnt get the extension in. When turning it over, On one battery, She spun fine but #8 cylinder puffed smoke out everytime it hit TDC (Approx.) Was trying to bleed down the lines and got NOTHING at the injectors but did get fuel out the return. I'm thinking, given how "old" everything looks, would it be better to pull everything and "refresh" it all? I could be chasing my tail keeping whats there or get new and be certain. Lot of old rubber lines and "shade tree" repairs in this engine bay. If so, What all would I need to get? Such as, New CDR, injector line kit, fuel warmer, rebuilt IP, etc...

 

[79jasper]

As for these batteries being fine because they came from the 6.0.. Not so fast there.. the 6.0 has a much lower cranking pressure than out idi has. We have 21 to 1 compression at as much as 530 lbs like my engine. the 6.0 has maybe 17 to 1 compression ratio at whatever lbs cranking.. I do not know.

Yes/no. 6.0's are really finicky when it comes to batteries. Lol


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