replacing rag joint?

dreadhed

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I am wondering what is all involved in changing the rag joint out. My Haynes tells me nothing about it. Also are there any other parts I should change while I am in there? Thanks for any help.
 

HammerDown

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I am wondering what is all involved in changing the rag joint out. My Haynes tells me nothing about it. Also are there any other parts I should change while I am in there? Thanks for any help.

I Don't think my 1988 F250 4x4 has one ;Really ...but I have a cute little Universal joint up by the top of the shaft.;Sweet
 

tonkadoctor

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I am wondering what is all involved in changing the rag joint out. My Haynes tells me nothing about it. Also are there any other parts I should change while I am in there? Thanks for any help.

Just a PITA job, skinned knuckles and a few choice words especially if the bolts are rusted up good-cuss . May want to hit the bolts with some penetrating oil a night or 2 before you do it if you have the luxury of time on your side. Can't think of anything else to do there besides give a good look at the rest of the steering components once you get the rag joint replaced and the steering shaft is tight again.
 

OkieGringo

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I had the rag joint on my 87 4x4 replaced while we were still living in Baja. The hard part was getting the OEM rivets off. I don't have total recall, but the mechanic knew what he was doing and it was pretty tough, as I remember. The joint was less than $10.00. OkieGringo
 

dreadhed

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I will pry get into it this weekend, so I can hit it all week with some lube. They are a cheap part. I picked one up today.

Do I just unbolt the shaft & then take the joint a part?

Okie what size are the banjo petcocks for draining the block? I need to do a flush here soon. I can't remember what they were, remember reading about them though.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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TAKE A CLOSER LOOK

I Don't think my 1988 F250 4x4 has one ;Really ...but I have a cute little Universal joint up by the top of the shaft.;Sweet


Unless you have an aftermarket shaft, such as Borgeson or Flaming River, you do indeed have a rag-joint.

It is concealed under a plastic sleeve at the forward/bottom end of the shaft, down next to the steering gear-box, where it can get good and oil-soaked, and impossible to see it's condition.
 

OkieGringo

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Here ya go...
BajaGringo Block Drains

The block drains are just 1/4"npt petcocks, available in the "HELP" section at the auto parts store. You need a 9/16" crowfoot socket that fits on a socket extension to reach in to tighten them (There's no room for a reg open end wrench). Then, cut up an old spark plug socket to fit over the petcock to loosen/tighten. Once they are loose, slip the 3/8" rubber hose over the end of the petcock and continue loosening the petcock (with the other end of hose in bucket). Intstalling these is still messy and a bit of a hassle, but NEXT TIME it'll be a lot less messy and a lot easier. Smear 'em with anti-seize to make sure they turn 'next time'. I've already had to use mine because when I had the radiator 'rodded' they didn't have the right kind of antifreeze, and I was 200 miles from home. So I needed to re-flush the system and re-DCA it. This makes saving/reusing the expensive DCAs/antifreeze possible if you use CLEAN BUCKETS. I bought a special funnel that snaps into the radiator fill, and use a metal spray paint funnel/filter/screen just to make sure nothing too big gets back in there. Yeah, I'm a little '**** retentive', that's probably why my eyes are brown. BajaGringo
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I added them to mine a few weeks ago(idea stollen from Baja) I confirm they are 1/4" npt petcocks and the 9/16" crowfoot is neccassary also.

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Kennyd
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Get the quality brass petcocks that open fully with a 1/4 turn (twist-knob on the side). There's all different kinds available.
 

dreadhed

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Thanks Okie. I thought it was 1/4" NPT but could not remember for sure. I will get some here in the next few days. I have a funnel I use with a metal screen I use too for the same thing. Don't need any extra crap in the motor.
 
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