replace ttb ujoint

Agnem

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Are you talking about the U joint on the passenger side of the pumpkin, or the ones at the knuckles? If it is the former, I can't say I've ever done it, so I'm not sure of the proceedure either, but it would seem inevitable that you might have to unbolt the axle pivot and the axle from the passenger side spring to do it. The steering knuckle U-joints are dealt with by removing the spindles.
 

John Haggerty

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I know that I had to remove the spindle to remove the shaft with joints on my truck (a 89). Removing the spindle was though. I had to make a puller to get the spindle off.
 

Agnem

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commonsthor said:
its the pass. outer . so i just remove the steering knuckle and pull the axle out of the pumpkin? thanks for info mel

I'm not sure you actually end up pulling the shaft out, since it won't go far with the other U-joint in there, but you will have enough room to press the old joint out and put a new one in. Hit the spindle to knuckle joint with PB blaster a good while in advance. Getting that out can be a real challenge.
 

highest_vision

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If you remove the spindle you will be able to pull the axle out, but the passenger side is held in. The way around this is to undo the outer clamp on the boot. If it is the factory clamp it will be a pain; it can be replaced with a properly sized hose clamp.
You knock off the spindle and remove the outer clamp on the boot, the axle shaft will slide right out. If you attach some thick aluminum or brass sheeting to the spindle (a short piece of old doorsill works well) and use a sledge, the spindle WILL come off. It just takes time. If your ball joints need replaced, do them now!!
Good Luck
James
 

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The Warden

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John Haggerty said:
I know that I had to remove the spindle to remove the shaft with joints on my truck (a 89). Removing the spindle was though. I had to make a puller to get the spindle off.
Why was pulling the spindle so difficult? I pulled mine in August to replace the inner bearings (and have been kicking myself ever since for not replacing the U-joints and the balljoints, but $$ was tight), and my spindles came off without too much of a fuss. After undoing the nuts that hold them on, I sprayed the area with something (can't remember what, but I think it was either PB Blaster, WD-40 or brake cleaner). I then took a small chisel and lightly tapped it into the space where the spindle mates with the knuckle. The spindle then came off with very little difficulty... it was downright anticlimactic.

I'm guessing that your spindle was rusted in place?
 

John Haggerty

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I'm guessing that your spindle was rusted in place?[/QUOTE said:
Rusted, at least! Couldn't get one to break with a chisel (one did). I made a puller that consisted of a plate with the shaft diameter bored thru it and four standoffs. I used the spindle nut to jack.
 

commonsthor

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:thumbsup: :thanks: thanks everyone for the info. i decided to redo complete front end.. decided to redo everything under her,ball joints ,brakes,calipers,rotors,hoses,all steering components,may do hydro-boost,new bushings ect, while axle should put on 4 lift.? waiting for parts till tuesday. cant wait!! ;Sweet also new tires 285 85 16 coopers,ill be driving 76 f250 2wd 360 4spd 4miles per gallon.ouch soon to be 6.9 turbo :peelout
 

highest_vision

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Hey Tim, my spindles were corroded on. Spent quite a bit of time after removal with sand paper cleaning the mating surfaces up. The spindles extended the job out a lot due to the difficulty in removing them :mad:
James
 

The Warden

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James (and John), all I can say is "ouch"! I'm not sure what else to say without sounding like I'm gloating (except that maybe there is something good about being out in the People's Republic of California ;))...

BTW, James, good to see you over here ;Sweet
 

Agnem

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I've not done too many spindles, but the ones I have done were not fun!
 
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