Repairing a rusted Rad support for a 1986 style

[david85]

What's the thought behind the vinyl over the rubber body mount?

I'd be concerned with fluid film affecting the paint before it's fully cured.

The top of the body mount is a steel washer. The idea is to offer an insulator while also sealing water out. Moisture typically gets trapped around the bolt stud and causes massive amounts of rust over the years. I'm not too worried about the fluidfilm reacting with the paint because it's already set and I've done this combo before on other vehicles. Although for now, I only sprayed a few critical locations. The full "drenching" will happen later.

 

[chillman88]

The top of the body mount is a steel washer.

Ah ok that makes complete sense. I was thinking you wanted isolation between the rubber bushing and the core support, which didn't make sense to me.

I'm not too worried about the fluidfilm reacting with the paint because it's already set and I've done this combo before on other vehicles.

Cool good to know. I realize it's relatively inert but I'm always leery of paint until it's fully cured.

 

[david85]

The only real issue I've had with this particular oil-based paint is related to recoat times. You can add more paint within the day, but after that, you have to wait up to a week (less in hot weather). Since it doesn't have any kind of activator, the new paint will have enough solvent to wrinkle the previous layer. I had that happen on the inside floorpan of my truck. But since it isn't visible under the carpet, I didn't care. It goes on very thick, so recoat is usually not needed but it does make touchup very easy. Just don't expect an automotive grade finish because that's not what it's intended for.

Fluidfilm is pretty inert. I think it does have some petroleum in it, but it's mostly lanilin based wax. Sometimes called "wool-wax", because it's a byproduct from processing of sheep wool. It's been an industrial product for decades.

 

[david85]

Here's how I attached the front edge of the plastic fender liners. The stainless bolts are sealed with paintable urethane and then painted over top with the same paint as before. Then chased with a tap to clean the threads. Then another nut with fender washers clamps the plastic in place against the painted nut (painted nut should never move, thus keeping the steel sealed). The resulting space also allows for proper drainage and prevents salt or sand from getting caught between the plastic and the steel (which is what started the rust in the first place).

Am I going overboard on this? Probably, but I've used the same technique on other parts of the truck. Things like mud flaps and bed skirt braces are all done this way and it seems to work well.

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[genscripter]

Am I going overboard on this?

The answer is always no

 

[laserjock]

Here's how I attached the front edge of the plastic fender liners. The stainless bolts are sealed with paintable urethane and then painted over top with the same paint as before. Then chased with a tap to clean the threads. Then another nut with fender washers clamps the plastic in place against the painted nut (painted nut should never move, thus keeping the steel sealed). The resulting space also allows for proper drainage and prevents salt or sand from getting caught between the plastic and the steel (which is what started the rust in the first place).

Am I going overboard on this? Probably, but I've used the same technique on other parts of the truck. Things like mud flaps and bed skirt braces are all done this way and it seems to work well.

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I recommend lock nuts on those. I lost several sets Bolted on like that until I did lock nuts.

Looks great!

 

[david85]

I was worried about lock nuts putting too much tension and shifting the painted part of the bolt If I ever had to remove them for some reason. I used spring washers instead.

 

[david85]

This is a bit of a duplicate post from the other thread, but figured I would show this photo to wrap up this thread. I'm just waiting on the fender to come back from the painter but so far, everything fit back into the core support perfectly.

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[catbird7]

I was worried about lock nuts putting too much tension and shifting the painted part of the bolt If I ever had to remove them for some reason. I used spring washers instead.

It might be a good place for plastic push-in fasteners. I also use a lot of stainless fasteners. You definitely did an overkill job on your core support however I'm in the same camp when it something I'm planning to keep. Another approach to consider, some bodyshops are now using exotic adhesives to glue metal to metal where spot welds were previously common. Adhesive likely provides superior seal between the two surfaces keeping moisture out. Time will tell if this process provides long service life.

 

[david85]

Yes, I used the 3M panelbonding when I rebuilt the front cowling at the base of the windshield. It seems to work really well but is expensive. No prior experience there but I had no choice because welding would have allowed moisture to get into the freshly repaired joints. And I don't have a total immersion primer tank in my shop so the panel bond solution was better.

It probably could have worked for the rad support but it would have been more time consuming. The metal was also pitted in many places, so I'm not sure how well it would have held in the long run.