Reconsidering my RV setup

[Cubey]

Maybe,

Oh and how is it underneath for installing waste tanks? I'm guessing it has some room, somewhere.

Although I will soon be getting a free gym membership to Anytime Fitness again. That's what I did for showers in the tiny truck camper, when I wasn't someplace I could pitch a shower tent. I really only need a toilet in a van, and they cost $40-120.

I had one like this before but it wears out fast (after about a year). Only $40 though. https://www.amazon.com/JAXPETY-Outdoor-Portable-Campsite-Hospital/dp/B07TX8HFB7/

 

[LowTech]

There is space outside the frame rails behind the rear axle. I had a grey tank of about 20(?)gal on one side until I hit some tire rubber in the road several years ago and it ripped it open.
There's also space behind the fuel tank between the rails and it would hold a decent size tank I think. I used that space for a spare since they don't come w/ a place for one.

Behind the driver's side door is often the AC unit for the rear AC, the one over the back door. I pulled that and put an under body propane tank in that space as well as a box for the house batts.
Passenger side is empty along that same area.

This rig sat for a few years until I had a lady start traveling w/ me so a bunch of things that it needed back before then are still needed.
I usually live in an overlanding trailer I built out behind my deuce, . . . now I have more than just my rig to keep running.

 

[Cubey]

There is space outside the frame rails behind the rear axle. I had a grey tank of about 20(?)gal on one side until I hit some tire rubber in the road several years ago and it ripped it open.

Class A Customs is a cheap source for waste tanks. I have two from them on my RV. The black tank was missing and the one they sell was perfect. the grey tank got broken in the accident last year and i ordered another just like the black, 99% the same size. $90+tax with free shipping for a 24 gallon tank. They have many other sizes too.

I'm quite fond of the blue 89 van. I might consider putting a single waste tank if it has space underneath, and make it a black tank so i can have a good toilet setup. That's most important thing, when living in a vehicle. It can use it for a kitchen sink, as well. As long as I have enough capacity for about 7-10 days, it would be good.

I even found a mascot for it. Well, there's two possible ones.

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[Cant Write]

Alright, just got home and put the kids to bed, school night and wife is out of town.

This afternoon we drove over Owl Creek Pass in the Cimarrons to go drive the blue 1989 Van EB.....

Impressions: that thing is a flippin’ HOT ROD!!!! Wow do I NEED a turbo. It will flat leave my van in the dust, it drives like a modern car. I’m not sure a van needs that much power but I’m hooked!!

@Cubey buy Wally so I can have this blue van!!!

Alright..deep breaths...calm myself down....

 

[Cubey]

Impressions: that thing is a flippin’ HOT ROD!!!! Wow do I NEED a turbo. It will flat leave my van in the dust, it drives like a modern car. I’m not sure a van needs that much power but I’m hooked!!

I figured it was a night and day difference, having driven my F250 NA 3.55 in the mountains of CO, WY, UT. My RV feels similar with turbo and 4.10. Still slow as sin... but it's massive vs the F250.. so I know the turbo makes a big difference. The RV would be undrivable in mountains without turbo, in my opinion.

 

[Cant Write]

Get a SRW EB van with a turbo and a E4OD. Get the blue van.

4 tires to deal with vs 6. Normal sized vehicle to fit most places.

Not sure dimensionally, but it sure drives like it’s smaller than the 92 body style. The 92 feels bloated in comparison.

 

[Cubey]

Get a SRW EB van with a turbo and a E4OD. Get the blue van.

4 tires to deal with vs 6. Normal sized vehicle to fit most places.

Not sure dimensionally, but it sure drives like it’s smaller than the 92 body style. The 92 feels bloated in comparison.

I sent them a couple of texts earlier this evening summing up the situation. But it was after 9pm, so maybe they'll reply tomorrow.

The different feeling of driving/steering might be due to having it king pins instead of ball joints.

 

[Cant Write]

Alright....

Coolant, green and looks perfect. Test strip shows it is almost due for another SCA treatment. Overflow tank low. No sign of oil or other contaminates.

Oil, perfect and not a hint of diesel. Smell of normal diesel oil, is that carbon and combustion I smell...

Trans, perfect, beautiful red and not burnt smelling.

Brake Fluid, full, could use new fluid.

Power steering, low, added some trans fluid.

Gear oil, did not check but no signs of seepage.

Washer fluid, added a quart.

 

[Cant Write]

The different feeling of driving/steering might be due to having it king pins instead of ball joints.

Is my van ball joints? I thought it was kingpins as well....

 

[Cubey]

Alright....

Coolant, green and looks perfect. Test strip shows it is almost due for another SCA treatment. Overflow tank low. No sign of oil or other contaminates.

Oil, perfect and not a hint of diesel. Smell of normal diesel oil, is that carbon and combustion I smell...

Trans, perfect, beautiful red and not burnt smelling.

Brake Fluid, full, could use new fluid.

Power steering, low, added some trans fluid.

Gear oil, did not check but no signs of seepage.

Washer fluid, added a quart.

Sounds good. The oil in the RV always smells of french fries to me when I'm checking it.

I tend to run Zerex G-05, no SCA needed so no testing. Just change every X many years (5 i think?). But also my radiator has a seeping leak so I refill the overlow now and then. It keeps the radiator full since the cap is working, but I do check the radiator itself now and then to be sure it's full. I might switch to it whenever I do coolant service on it.

So I just have to wait for them to reply to my texts.

Were you texting or emailing them?

Is my van ball joints? I thought it was kingpins as well....

For 92, RockAuto is showing ball joints under suspension, no king pins in steering. 92 was the generation change for a ton of stuff. Body, interior, front steering/suspension. Different radiator also since the front end body was changed.

 

[Cant Write]

Tires: BFGoodrich KO2’s, great tread, didn’t see cupping. Size: 235/85/16 (32”)

Spare; PS in the back, not mounted underneath. Forgot to remove cover and look at it.

Batteries; has disconnects (knife switch) on both sides. Batteries a couple years old according to owner. No corrosion build up. Was not aware of power draw, they’ve always been on there and since the van gets such little use, they disconnect them.

Belts: V-belts and look to be in good shape.

AC Compressor MIA. Not even there. The other parts and hoses are there.

Could use PS valve cover. Front Main seeps, same with rear, nothing horrible.

Power Steering Pump needs a reseal.

GP’s all lit, no clicking from controller, and it fired right off without smoke, stumble, or hesitation. And this is with nose up. Rear was downhill.

Fuel Filter in factory location. Has electric fuel pump. No manual lift pump. Both tanks work, but the front fuel gauge read correct for awhile the goes to empty when it’s not. Rear works.

Battery voltage at cold start read 14.84 volts.

No odd knocks or ticks that I could hear. Sounded great.

 

[Cant Write]

Texted, but they live in BFE off the side of a literal mountain. No service of any kind. 2-way radios with repeaters. They were very slow to respond.

 

[Cant Write]

HVAC: front and rear all work, except AC of course

Lights: all work, but the blinker stick I had to hold to make it blink. There was no positive position to hold it, but maybe I wasn’t forceful enough. No 3rd brake light. Aftermarket head lamps that they said work awesome at night.

Wipers: washer fluid works, intermittent wipers work

Forgot to check horn and dimmer switch on floor.

Windows, all work beautifully. Could use new sweeps. Wing windows do not chatter or whistle. Pop outs all work, latch and close.

Doors: close perfectly. Side door rattles on gravel. Front doors solid. Only other rattle was from gauge pod.

Suspension: solid. Rear leafs have helpers bolted on. Leaf spring bushings dry rotted. Body mounts good, some dry. Door seals dry and need a good dose of silicon paste.

Doghouse seals well.

Seats, not ripped, armrests work. Lots of life left.

 

[Cubey]

Tires: BFGoodrich KO2’s, great tread, didn’t see cupping. Size: 235/85/16 (32”)

Spare; PS in the back, not mounted underneath. Forgot to remove cover and look at it.

Batteries; has disconnects (knife switch) on both sides. Batteries a couple years old according to owner. No corrosion build up. Was not aware of power draw, they’ve always been on there and since the van gets such little use, they disconnect them.

Belts: V-belts and look to be in good shape.

AC Compressor MIA. Not even there. The other parts and hoses are there.

Could use PS valve cover. Front Main seeps, same with rear, nothing horrible.

Power Steering Pump needs a reseal.

GP’s all lit, no clicking from controller, and it fired right off without smoke, stumble, or hesitation. And this is with nose up. Rear was downhill.

Fuel Filter in factory location. Has electric fuel pump. No manual lift pump. Both tanks work, but the front fuel gauge read correct for awhile the goes to empty when it’s not. Rear works.

Battery voltage at cold start read 14.84 volts.

No odd knocks or ticks that I could hear. Sounded great.

Valve covers: Yuck but probably not too bad to do if it's got similar room to access the covers as with the ATS 085. I have done return line o-rings on the RV and that's probably worse than valve cover gaskets. Had to work from both sides with the fuel filter and alternator removed.

Tires: mainly worried about age/dry rot. i could see the deep tread but you can't see dry rot from far away in pics, unless it's about to blow apart on the sidewalls.

Batteries: My RV is almost due for batteries probably anyway. I have been sticking a battery maintainer on it for a couple days then unplugging it while i have been here. But they're almost 5 years old. I see there's plenty of stores including Walmart which is usually where i go for batteries.

Belts: Easy enough to change then, if it only has 2 belts. AC is the furthest out normally. Then power steering. Then alternator. Sadly, I don't think there is enough clearance between the pump/pulley and the fan shroud for a dual groove pulley, so then it could have 3 belts driving the water pump. But I could be mistaken: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264619300221

Power steering: Yuck!!! I have done it on my RV but it's no fun. but it can be done without removing the radiator. It takes much cursing though. You have to keep the pulley on and remove the whole pump bracket etc and it has a spacer that's a pain to put back. But... it can be done. Had to suspend it with a bungee cord to hold it in place whole i was trying to line up the huge swivel bolt and the spacer.

Fuel pump: I prefer electric on an RV. It's so buried on a van. I might even move my Holley Red to it, if it has a less good pump. Did it have the typical 7.3 style fuel filter? I wondered about that. The water separator on the 6.9 vans are mounted under the driver's seat in a big metal cage with a cable going to it from a handle under the RH side of the driver seat, under a plastic hinged cover. That's how you drain it.

 

[Cubey]

Doghouse seals well.

That's more than can be said for mine. Not sure why, maybe the trans dipstick tube is hitting it. I'm suspecting it's not a true van fitment kit, just a crammed on truck kit. so maybe that's why it's an issue.

I wonder if emailing them might be better, if they have satellite internet or something. I'll see what they say back via text, hopefully tomorrow.