Cant Write
Full Access Member
I think the other buttons on the dash are from when the Nuclear Lab owned it. My guess anyway.
Reconsidering my RV setup
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Owner of the blue van sent me this......
Trans Code: E (E4OD)
Axle Code: C2 (4.10, w/LS).....
Plus the banks turbo!! Not sure if that’s good or bad
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Trans Code: E (E4OD)
Axle Code: C2 (4.10, w/LS).....
Plus the banks turbo!! Not sure if that’s good or bad
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4.10 helps for towing the bug/in the mountains but worse for mpg. turbo helps a ton regardless.
The 87 yellow with the slider door has 3.55, dunno about the white 88 with barn doors. Both are C6 though. I wonder if a C6+GV with 3.55 might be slightly better than an E4OD with 4.10, or come out about a wash. E4OD is more expensive to rebuild and i already have a C6 GV kit, but I would have to have the GV installed and it's a weak link that could fail, so that's something to consider. More maintenance too, changing the oil on it, every 3000 miles or so.
but i could always sell my GV C6 kit to recoup costs for getting the blue 89 e4od. I am leaning towards it, despite the high costs associated with fetching it. especially if i shoot for taking it to arkansas as well as my RV, so i can work on selling both the RV and truck, while also working on the van.
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Cant Write
Full Access Member
With the speeds you’ll drive (55-65) the E4OD + 4.10’s will be superior to C6/GV + 3.55’s in both efficiency and take off power.
Plus the LS being 2-wheel drive is really nice. Mine works great. Not sure if that Dana 61 has one or not.
Plus the LS being 2-wheel drive is really nice. Mine works great. Not sure if that Dana 61 has one or not.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Gearing aside, I think that you'll be happier with the E4OD. I know that I would. I feel that's a better set up than a C6 even with a GV on it. Especially for a heavier load like a RV or a loaded down van.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I agree. Unless you've driven both, you can't imagine how much of an advantage that lock up convertor is.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Plus 55 in D, locked, with the E4OD and 4.10’s is a really nice combo for climbing steep hills or Mtn passes.
In my Wally thread I mentioned trying to find 3.55’s and was warned against. The more I drive Wally, those people are spot on.
In my Wally thread I mentioned trying to find 3.55’s and was warned against. The more I drive Wally, those people are spot on.
Doing some googling, I ran across this in a 20 year old post, so the prices will be outdated, but yeah. Is there any truth to this? It was in reference to one behind a 5.8, so perhaps E4ODs built for gasoline engine applications aren't as strong as ones built for use with diesels?
My RV's C6 was rebuilt with a shift kit and all for diesel use in mind, but of course it came from the factory for diesels also. But it needed a total teardown and drums replaced, it was so ruined.
Also found this 2014 comment here on OB praising E4OD over C6+GV, just as someone in this thread did: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/e4od-to-c6-with-gear-vendors.69442/#post-807623
Cant Write
Full Access Member
I’m not a trans expert, but it also sounds like the earlier ones suffered front seal leak when fluid is hot.
95+ has all the factory upgrades
And if you can swing it, a better torque converter.
And if you aren’t towing much with it., not sure a way overbuilt one would be worth it.
I’d say clean fluid, bigger cooler and transgo kit would be a good start. At least a van has easy access to the housing bolts
95+ has all the factory upgrades
And if you can swing it, a better torque converter.
And if you aren’t towing much with it., not sure a way overbuilt one would be worth it.
I’d say clean fluid, bigger cooler and transgo kit would be a good start. At least a van has easy access to the housing bolts
I’m not a trans expert, but it also sounds like the earlier ones suffered front seal leak when fluid is hot.
95+ has all the factory upgrades
And if you can swing it, a better torque converter.
And if you aren’t towing much with it., not sure a way overbuilt one would be worth it.
I’d say clean fluid, bigger cooler and transgo kit would be a good start. At least a van has easy access to the housing bolts
Although on the 085 turbo up pipe was in the way on the RV for one bell housing bolt and the turbo had to be totally undone to get to it.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes the early E4ODs were weak. I think that there was two upgrades to them before the end of the IDI run. It's also entirely possible the the upgrades have already been done if the transmission had been rebuilt in the past. Definitely get a bigger cooler like you did for the C6, if you buy this van. Heat is the enemy of all automatic transmissions. At least the E4OD has the lock up convertor, which reduces slippage/heat while locked up in drive and overdrive. That's an advantage right there.
It might already have a big cooler, being in Colorado. It has a ton of added on gauges but i can't tell if one might be transmission
I see oil temp next to the column, an unknown white face one facing straight up in the center console, and the top row up high are:
1 turbo boost
2 egt
3 ?? water temp maybe
4 oil (pressure?)
5 battery
The "oil temperature" could actually be transmission temperature, if the oil temp gauge was cheaper than a transmission one.
I see oil temp next to the column, an unknown white face one facing straight up in the center console, and the top row up high are:
1 turbo boost
2 egt
3 ?? water temp maybe
4 oil (pressure?)
5 battery
The "oil temperature" could actually be transmission temperature, if the oil temp gauge was cheaper than a transmission one.
I just spotted this out in West Texas for $3700: 1990 E350 IDI with E4OD.
Probably not much better MPG though vs the motorhome though. I'd probably do better to just spend on a GV install, since I'd have to do major work to build a camper in it. It's still bus seats, right now. It is a bit more aerodynamic though, since it doesn't have a cab over sticking out over the hood.
Although the advantage to a clean slate is you can build the floor plan how you want. That's one downsize to motorhomes. I have never liked the bed situation in my motorhome. But I'd probably end up spending $1500-2000 to turn it into an RV, and still only get 10-12mpg.
Probably not much better MPG though vs the motorhome though. I'd probably do better to just spend on a GV install, since I'd have to do major work to build a camper in it. It's still bus seats, right now. It is a bit more aerodynamic though, since it doesn't have a cab over sticking out over the hood.
Although the advantage to a clean slate is you can build the floor plan how you want. That's one downsize to motorhomes. I have never liked the bed situation in my motorhome. But I'd probably end up spending $1500-2000 to turn it into an RV, and still only get 10-12mpg.
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LowTech
Mech Wrangler
Maybe, I've been getting around 13mpg and it was running poorly due to air intrusion before the electric fuel pump. I'm interested to see what it does on the next distance run now that that is sorted.
At least that one has straight walls. Ours is a shallow curve, more "exciting" for doing a build out. And the glass of the windows is usually easily replaced w/ aluminum. Faster and easier than framing in the window hole for a wall section that you want to build against.
Also a lot of "emergency exit" windows are hinged.
At least that one has straight walls. Ours is a shallow curve, more "exciting" for doing a build out. And the glass of the windows is usually easily replaced w/ aluminum. Faster and easier than framing in the window hole for a wall section that you want to build against.
Also a lot of "emergency exit" windows are hinged.
Attachments
I do find that if the RV sits a long time, it takes a bit for the MPG to improve. It was worst when I first got it but it slowly got better. It sat most of 2020 and was a little worse for a while again but improved. I guess the fuel systems gets gummy and has to clean itself out. My little fuelly thing below used to say 8.3 a couple years ago.
