Rebuild or no

[seawalkersee]

Hmmmm...that would make sence since the engine sat for a long time (two years) before I picked it up.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Well...I have been kind of busy betwix the kids, kids naps, and the honey do list. None the list. I think I have all of the bolts loose on the cooler, and will have it popped of tomorrah.

As far as the bypass goes, is it going to be blatently obvious to me or what do I need to look for?

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

So, no help on the bad bypass?

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

I was able to shovel it clear enough to get it worked on for a few hours. Its outside and that makes it tough. Today it was 5* and my minivan started to show the oil light at the stop lights...AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH....Put the mechanical guage on it and it has 6-10 warm at idle. Good enough. Cruise at 70, 40-50. Checked the sender, leaking oild from the inside...Fixed. BUT...this is what I was working in....

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No puppy there...He is over 100lbs of love.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

So...I pulled out the cooler today. No such luck. The spring still has good tension/resistance in it. Everything looked pretty good so I think I am screwed with the current engine. Anyone else care to weigh in on this before it gets pulled?

SWS

 

[towcat]

the ford idiot gauge for our trucks goes into ohshit mode at 7 lbs and below.
you're right at the hairy edge for minimum. I ran a 7.3 at that minimum to see how long it would take before it blew up.....three years later and no oil changes, it was still running.

 

[icanfixall]

About this spring you pulled out of the header. If it was the spring under the fiber wafer then thats the wrong spring. The one you need to pull is under the metal plunger thats help into the aluminum case with punch marks in the housing. There are 4 of them. Do not cut so much aluminum away because you need to have something left to do this again. Hope this helps...

 

[leftcoastjeff]

This?

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LCjeff

 

[seawalkersee]

Again, this is with a mechanical autometer guage. After it warms, it drops to "0". The spring that jeff has shown is the one that I checked and it has plenty of pressure. It is not broken and is all the way out/functioning.

SWS

 

[sassyrel]

THATS the one--take a punch--and drive those punch marks sideways--to get the washer to let go--AND IT WILL-unless the spring is broke--it will fly!!!!then take the spring out--and its the washer under there thats the culprit--and DONT polish it with sandpaper--its far tooo ruff--use a coarse scotchbrite--polish ONLY the washer,,one the outer dia--leave the inner bore alone--unless its really scratched--take a small magnet--and run the washer up and down in the bore--slide smooth?? if so--put back together,and restake the top washer as it was---DONT use the same stake marks--move off 90 deg--

 

[icanfixall]

Yes... Left coast points out the correct area. Unless you have taken it out and "looked" at it you wont see the wear usually found on the outside of the spring windings. As the spring wears down the pressure drops. It kinda weakens the spring. I found one almost worn down by 1/4 of the wire diameter. That was on a spare oil cooler I had so I have no idea what that motor did for pressure... If you rebuild this motor its best to replace the header. That way you wont carry this possible problem to the new motor. Plenty of guys have and regretted it afterwards. If you shim the washer internally your oil pressure will be much higher. I shimed mine 70 thousands and I idle warm around 25 lbs plus and at 2000 rpm I have 55 lbs plus oil pressure.

 

[seawalkersee]

Is there a replacement spring? I have read that there is not. When I pulled mine down, I took one of the bolts and pushed against the spring. Pretty stout. Not valve spring stout but stronger than hitting the end of an ink pen by probalby 4 times. Regardless, I will pull it further tomorrow.

Oh, can someone post the pix of an oil pump for out engines?

SWS

 

[icanfixall]

Another issue you may have is a plugged oil pump pickup screen. Any carbon or gasket material will be drawn up onto the screen and decrease the oil flow to the pump. To determine this the pan needs to come off. Sludge may be caked up on it. This is only a guess at best from this side of the computer too. I understand you have a shop that will work for you but before that make sure all the rebuild work is needed. Usually these motors run forever easily passing 300,000 miles. Some have passed 500,000 easily. It all depends on maintance done in a timely manner.

 

[seawalkersee]

I do not want to rebuild it, I just want it to be right. I want to believe there was a problem with the spring, and hope like heck that MAYBE there is something covering the screen. However, I am not htat lucky...Nowhere even close. I am going to yank the spring out of the housing today and throw some washers under it to make it work. Then, I am going to lift the engine and see if I can get the pan off and check the pickup. Im praying it is a simple fix.

SWS

 

[Clydesdale]

until this thread I had not realized you drove a Bronco... Rock ON!

If all fares well, my ExtraFSB will be on its way to an IDI this weekend. Good luck on the oil pressure thing. The only issue I have had, is warm, and Freeway rpms, I dropped like a rock. But I was 8,000 ? 10,000? miles on an oil change.. changed it, and it was right as rain.