Reasonable engine rebuild estimate

[laserjock]

With the promar engines, how does that work? Is there a core charge or you just buy an engine? Depending on price, it might be worth going that route to have a clean starting point. I would guess it would just need studs and new head gaskets. I was considering upgraded valve springs. Stockers should be alright though.

Hmmm. As always, you guys have given me more to think about. Have to go look these up.


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[GOOSE]

Promar gives you 30 days to return core, they pay shipping I believe. They will assemble the engine with the studs, cam, valve springs, how ever you want. Send thm the parts, get them back on an assembled short block.

 

[Knuckledragger]

If your engine is running OK and only has 186k, why spend the cabbage? There is a lot you can do to freshen it up from the outside that will not affect the rebuild potential. Rebuild oil cooler. Replace/Rebuild IP and change injectors. Replace all belts and hoses. Replace valve cover gaskets to kill leaks. Have radiator cleaned and/or rebuilt. Long list from which you can pick and choose before you really need to open up the engine for serious work.

 

[texcl]

I was looking at re-ringing a 7.3 for a winter project, but after doing lots of research, it wasn't worth the effort. generally the compression even on an engine with 300k on it is still pretty good. The previous poster may be right that the better money is spent on the injection system and fixing all the little leaks ect.... they are the root cause of most major failures. I have decided that if I end up with a truck with cavitation or low compression, I will just buy a promar. You can't beat the warrantee, you may build it perfect but you don't have it warranted and you never know if some component has an undetectable flaw that will cause a major failure.

 

[Greg5OH]

Promar engines sounds good, two votes for them already.

what about jasper? I see that name alot on these boards, and theyres one bout 5 minutes down the road from me.

i too agree 180k, shouldnt have to be doing a rebuild-unless your building it for some power. And in that case, again-promar seems good. it really is the machining cost that drives an engine builds cost way past most peoples budget. then they skip out on some services the shop recommends, and the engine is just not "perfect". Im assuming promar can offer such a deal because they do alot of volume, they have all the jigs, fixtures and tooling all ready to go. and that warranty is awesome!

I know its fun to build your own engine, but like gary and others have said, So many things you HAVE to check and have machined to turly have a proper running engine. Usually costs twice as much as getting something pre assembled, or at least pre machined and you assemble it. (like the DIY stroker kits from fordstrokers when it comes to sbfs)

 

[laserjock]

I'm not looking to go crazy power wise. Thinking bull moose and moose boost once its available. That said, I want a reliable bottom end. I have not been able to really drive the truck out on the highway since I bought it. A few trips through the neighborhood and I fire it up and move it around to keep the fuel system happy. Like I said it sounds good and starts pretty easy after I took care of a couple fuel system leaks. My only concern is that I don't really know the history of the truck. It's been passed around a bunch of times in recent years. Guy I bought it from never even registered it.


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[laserjock]

I'm not looking to go crazy power wise. Thinking bull moose and moose boost once its available. That said, I want a reliable bottom end. I have not been able to really drive the truck out on the highway since I bought it. A few trips through the neighborhood and I fire it up and move it around to keep the fuel system happy. Like I said it sounds good and starts pretty easy after I took care of a couple fuel system leaks. My only concern is that I don't really know the history of the truck. It's been passed around a bunch of times in recent years. Guy I bought it from never even registered it.


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[texcl]

You should get a base line compression test done. it will tell you alot about the condition of your engined.also it is a base line for future reference. I usually dont buy harbor freight stuff but I did buy a compression tester with all the diesel fittings for $25 on sale and it works fine. between that and how much oil you use should tell you alot.

 

[GOOSE]

X 2 on the compression test. I believe its the best way there is to gauge where an IDI stands without cracking it open.

I didn't have the same luck with the Harbor Freight tester however, wound up buying a real one from Napa for about a hundred dollars more.

 

[laserjock]

Compression test sounds like a good idea. I can do the engine in the truck easy enough. Have to ponder on the one on the stand. No room for the flex plate :-/

Thanks for the ideas guys.


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[justinray]

Compression test sounds like a good idea. I can do the engine in the truck easy enough. Have to ponder on the one on the stand. No room for the flex plate :-/

Use an impact on the crank? Seems viable though I've never seen it done.

 

[laserjock]

Hmm. How fast does it have to turn over? Couple compression strokes enough? Time for some research.


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[justinray]

I really feel like an impact can spin the engine just as fast as the starter can.

 

[dgr]

Hook a battery and some fuel to it and it'll sound like a big rig with an air starter starting. Which leads me to believe the impact will spin it fast enough.