rearend problems..... i think

[tractorman86]

ok guys i've had this problem before, i could be wrong but i will know in a few minutes when i crawl under it. i think my pinion nut that holds the yolk to the pinion is comming loose again, i get the same kind of vibration only when sustaining higher speeds. last time it happened a friend of mine fixed it while i was at work, so what do i torque it down to? i havn't done much work with rearends so i am kinda lost

 

[typ4]

Check the splines ,mine were almost completely gone.

 

[69dieselfreak]

tight i dont know sorry man

 

[tractorman86]

well that was the prob. the splines are a little marginal in the yolk(we'll see how long it lasts) but the pinion is good. i forgot to mention the guy that did it was kind of an idiot and i didnt realize it till long after he did this work for me and i was reminded of it tonight. he used sylicone to hold the nut on!!!! not locktite, sylicone how freaking dumb can this guy be?

 

[69dieselfreak]

*** silicone what a dip Sh!@

 

[MUDKICKR]

just rebuilt an 10.25 rear axle at work today. pinion nut torques to 160 ft lbs.

 

[Metalmacguyver]

just rebuilt an 10.25 rear axle at work today. pinion nut torques to 160 ft lbs.

What is the bearing preload spec?

 

[suv7734]

What is the bearing preload spec?

To be clear there is no torque setting for the pinion nut itself. There is a crush sleeve and that is what is used to 'set' the rotational preload on the pinion bearings. The preload is dependant on if used or new bearings are installed. The preload for used bearings is 8-14 lb-in and for new bearings it is 16-29 lb-in, meaning as you slowly tighten up the pinion nut (and crush the sleeve) you use a torque wrench to measure how much torque (lb-in) is needed to rotate the pinion (carrier removed). Also a new pinion nut is recommended each time (they're usually not that expensive).

 

[Metalmacguyver]

To be clear there is no torque setting for the pinion nut itself. There is a crush sleeve and that is what is used to 'set' the rotational preload on the pinion bearings. The preload is dependant on if used or new bearings are installed. The preload for used bearings is 8-14 lb-in and for new bearings it is 16-29 lb-in, meaning as you slowly tighten up the pinion nut (and crush the sleeve) you use a torque wrench to measure how much torque (lb-in) is needed to rotate the pinion (carrier removed). Also a new pinion nut is recommended each time (they're usually not that expensive).

 

[Agnem]

To be clear there is no torque setting for the pinion nut itself. There is a crush sleeve and that is what is used to 'set' the rotational preload on the pinion bearings. The preload is dependant on if used or new bearings are installed. The preload for used bearings is 8-14 lb-in and for new bearings it is 16-29 lb-in, meaning as you slowly tighten up the pinion nut (and crush the sleeve) you use a torque wrench to measure how much torque (lb-in) is needed to rotate the pinion (carrier removed). Also a new pinion nut is recommended each time (they're usually not that expensive).

So to be clear here, there is no proper way to adjust the pinion nut, without disassembling the entire rear?

 

[suv7734]

So to be clear here, there is no proper way to adjust the pinion nut, without disassembling the entire rear?

I can be done with the carrier still in place by taking a reading before the pinion nut is removed (not as accurate). You jack up the vehicle and remove the tires and if possible brake drums. Remove the d'shaft and then get a reading on the lb-in torque wrench when rotating the pinion nut (do a few rotations to get as accurate a reading as possible). Now remove the pinion nut and yoke. It's a good idea to replace the seal while you're in this far and also check the seal surface on the yoke. Replace the crush sleeve (recommended) and then install the yoke and new pinion nut. Tighten the pinion nut up untill the slop is taken out. Then begin taking rotational torque measurements (lb-in) while you slowly tighten the pinion nut a bit at a time until the original reading is attained. (Note: the torque values from previous post are not valid since you're turning the carrier, axles etc. which is why you took the reading before disassembly). It can be a slow process because if you tighten too far and the preload is too great you have to start all over again with a new crush sleeve.

 

[tractorman86]

what happens if you have too much preload?

 

[icanfixall]

Too much preload.... Burned out bearings and gears.... Not a good thing at all...

 

[tractorman86]

well i'll have to fix it right then i guess. just for a temp fix i cleaned up the yolk and pinion and nut, then lifted it off the ground and hit it with the impact till it started to turn the pinion as soon as it did i quit.

 

[Metalmacguyver]

When you go and do it, change your fluid. Be very suspicious of everything if the fluid has a glittery tint to it from metal in it. Take a good look at the contact areas on the gears. They should be nice and shiny and polished smooth from wearing against each other. If in doubt, take some pictures.