rear suspension mods.

IDIoit

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on my CC LB, 5 speed, whenever i let the clutch out a little too quick, i feel like im in a GD rodeo!

have any of you addressed this issue? other than being easy on the truck?
from time to time, i do like to beat on my truck.
i know it may cause some problems down the road, but nothing i cannot fix!

i know these long leaf springs are an issue, and i thought about installing some custom truck arms.
perhaps changing pinion angle will help. ive always preloaded the pinion angle on my racecars to make it as level as i can under hard accelleration.

the stock lift blocks (i think there stock) with the bump stop are the only ones in there.

tips and suggestions please!
 

mblaney

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Some possible options

-shocks

- re bush springs and hangers

-traction bar

-leave 1000 pounds in the bed
 

IDIoit

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these are just bars that mount under the axle and bind the leaf spring at a set position, right?
anyone have any pictures of these installed on their ride?
i will most likely make my own. need some ideas!

ive never had a leaf spring hotrod, and this truck is becoming one real quick. beside the launches this truck exceeds all performance expectations i ever had for it.

almost makes me want to turn my IP up. (yes i have a pyro, and no it will not get turned up until i innercool it) EGT's get up to 1k, up a nice hill with no load.
pyro installed inbetween the rear 2 driverside exhaust ports.


ALSO.
the 89 frame under my ranchero has a set of swaybars. im really thinking about robbing them
this truck handles well for a pig, but theres always a way to make it better.
 

IDIoit

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Some possible options

-shocks

- re bush springs and hangers

-traction bar

-leave 1000 pounds in the bed

i have new bushings. i have not yet purchased shocks, they are high on the list.

what shocks are you guys running?


ixnay on the 1/2 a ton in the bed.... its only a 5' bed lol
 

Ilovejunk

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^^^^^ yup ^^^^

Bilsteins may cost a little more depending on your vehicle but have always seemed to make my trucks ride and drive better on the back roads where they spend most of there time.

whatever you do stay away from the cheapie monroe shocks that most auto parts places have listed as there "value" shock, i has a set of those on my ford and they sucked, if i hit bad spots in the road the truck would wallow and bounce like the suspension was made outta marshmallows it was ridiculous, i took them off within a week.
 
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franklin2

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Here's what I am thinking about doing. My truck has a 4 inch lift with blocks in the back. No problems at all except axle wrap. This will hopefully do the job with no spring binding.

Each method of lifting the truck has it's problems, this is the main one with the blocks and hopefully it will cure it.

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txbronco

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Tuff Country traction bars on my superduty
54 in long.Saddle under u bolts, brackets on frame.
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IDIoit

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franklin, this is what i was thinking, as ive installed a few sets for people in the past,
but only on rear leaf cars. only cars ive ever owned were triangulated 4 linked, or 3 linked.
besides my first ranchero, but i was young and didnt know any better lol
as i got to thinking about this, and researching, i believe this style will cause damage to our leaf springs.
as the adjustable bumper will put stress on the spring where its located.
the way i see it, there are two ways to do this correctly.

one, deleting the rear leaf all together and making a truck arm set up ( 3 link) like the early 60's GM trucks.
2 truck arms extending from the axle, and a pan hard. the further forward the better. on my hotrod, i made arms that mount
at the transmission cross member. this would take alot of time and you would also have to switch to either coil springs or coil overs.
with mine being a 6 door, she wont be seeing any extreme off road use, but it would loose alot of ground clearence.

two,
fabricating a set of ladder bars. i was looking for a set on e-bay, and saw a set for the superdutys. they mount to the top of the
leaf spring top plate, and extend the same distance as the front leaf spring mount.
i am unsure if you make them longer or shorter if it will bind the leaf spring.

what i want to do is to leave the blocks, and spring plates alone, making a bracket on the axle itself, inside of the leafs
and making my arms extend to the front leafspring mount via a custom cross member. while doing this, depends where they land, may as well make a driveshaft loop!!
or, if theres enough room, on the outside of the leaf springs and mount them to the outside of the frame.

again this is nothing but a brainstorm....
 

IDIoit

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Only choice in shock for a rig you are gonna keep long term......

Bilstein!!!!!!!

ive been partial to Ranchos, but i will give blistens a shot...




Tuff Country traction bars on my superduty
54 in long.Saddle under u bolts, brackets on frame.
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your links dont work
 

txbronco

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lets see
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Waystro

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Only choice in shock for a rig you are gonna keep long term......

Bilstein!!!!!!!

x2 on the Bilsteins I have a set on my Suburban. My truck has AutoZone brand shocks Feels like your riding in a Duece and A Half.
 

IDIoit

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lets see
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im gonna stay away from the bolt o n kit, but could you take a pic of the front leaf spring perch vs. the traction bar?
 

franklin2

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franklin, this is what i was thinking, as ive installed a few sets for people in the past,
but only on rear leaf cars. only cars ive ever owned were triangulated 4 linked, or 3 linked.
besides my first ranchero, but i was young and didnt know any better lol
as i got to thinking about this, and researching, i believe this style will cause damage to our leaf springs.
as the adjustable bumper will put stress on the spring where its located.
the way i see it, there are two ways to do this correctly.

one, deleting the rear leaf all together and making a truck arm set up ( 3 link) like the early 60's GM trucks.
2 truck arms extending from the axle, and a pan hard. the further forward the better. on my hotrod, i made arms that mount
at the transmission cross member. this would take alot of time and you would also have to switch to either coil springs or coil overs.
with mine being a 6 door, she wont be seeing any extreme off road use, but it would loose alot of ground clearence.

two,
fabricating a set of ladder bars. i was looking for a set on e-bay, and saw a set for the superdutys. they mount to the top of the
leaf spring top plate, and extend the same distance as the front leaf spring mount.
i am unsure if you make them longer or shorter if it will bind the leaf spring.

what i want to do is to leave the blocks, and spring plates alone, making a bracket on the axle itself, inside of the leafs
and making my arms extend to the front leafspring mount via a custom cross member. while doing this, depends where they land, may as well make a driveshaft loop!!
or, if theres enough room, on the outside of the leaf springs and mount them to the outside of the frame.

again this is nothing but a brainstorm....

You can't really put a bar from the axle to the frame unless you use a shackle or some sort of telescoping bar. As you put weight in the truck the spring flattens out. This moves the axle to the rear ever so slightly, thus part of the reason why the driveshaft has a slip joint of some type in it. I know people do it, and they sell them, but it's not quite right when it's done.
 

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