Rear main seal installation question

[IDIDieselJohn]

So were freshen up this '86 6.9L engine that's gonna be going into an 89 F150.


Not rebuilding it, just taking all apart except for internals and cleaning it up, painting it and resealing it.


My dad took out the old rear main seal, without paying attention to witch side it was installed on.



I'll post 2 pics here of each side of the new rear main, and I wanna know witch side faces the rear. (as in when it's properly installed, witch side of the seal will I be looking at)

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[93blklightning]

If you look real close , you'll see a spring that goes around the inside . The spring always goes toward the inside of the engine . And the flat side of the seal goes toward the transmission

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[Leeland]

Open side toward the oil.

 

[93blklightning]

Same as a wheel seal , spring goes on the wet side , and slick side out

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[IDIDieselJohn]

That's what I taught, thanks alot guys! Just wanted to confirm.

 

[icanfixall]

Before you install that seal check the crank seal area surface. If you feel a worn area groove in it you will need a completely different seal. That seal is called a speedi sleeve seal. It comes with a thin metal sleeve that fits over the crank. Otherwise you risk a bad oil leak on the new seal Ford or international have that seal and you can find the part numbers in the Parts bin section forum. I believe Towcat knows of an aftermarket maker that he uses. He has a fleet of these idi trucks so he knows what parts work better than others.

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

There is a groove all around the middle where the seal goes, but doesn't look like wear caused it.... it was machined there.

 

[icanfixall]

Ok.. If you and I are talking about the same seal running surface on the crank then its supposed to be smooth.. They do have a radius where the seal surface builds into the crank. Thats a must have radius or it will crack there. No worn groove at all. This is why I mentioned this. Surprising as it is the rubber seal will wear a groove in the harder material of the crank. So now you know the issues. My comments are purely trying to save you from a horrible leak. A trans and flywheel - flexplate must be dropped along with the trans to repair this a second time. If its a 4x4 rig even more work to fix it twice. The torque on the crank bolts is 47 lbs and every bolt needs a thread sealer on it. Those bolt holes in the crank are drilled all the way thru the flange to the oil side of the pan. Forget to use thread sealant and a leak past the threads happens. Most will use blue loctite to insure the bolts don't walk out. That has happened to a few members here too. Now about the oil pan. Do not use a rubber or cork gasket. They will surely leak and the factory never used one either. A quality rtv is all thats needed there. Now you have some important information to use or disregard. The only interest this forum has is to help you understand these simple engines and trucks. Points are not given or taken away for correct or incorrect advice.

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

You are talking about this mating surface right?

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New seal just sitting in it's spot.

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[icanfixall]

Ok.. We have been talking about 2 different things. That seal area has the machined oil slinger on it. The piece thats towards the outside of the surface is looking ok in this pic. That seal will function fine. Also that seal in installed the correct direction too.