Rear brakes, upgrades???

[Cowboy_Customs]

Isnt there an upgrade to the rear drum brakes on an F250 with the Sterling axle, like swapping up to a larger shoe?? I seem to remember a sticky about it somewhere, but cant find one now. I know the dana 60 dodge rears u can swap up to a 3" versus 2 1/2".

Im just kind of in the middle of some rear brake issues/parking brake issues an NYS inspection.

Syptoms: parking brake pedle will go the floor twice, then maybe a few inches on 3rd set. and sets the park brakes. This will happen if used in a matter of 2 days/every 2 days if used. kind of like the adjuster backs off, but its not.
Park brake barilly releases drums on right rear.
"clunk" on first brake pedle push of the day, kind of like trys to lock up the rear brakes, but improves over the course of the day. (prolly heat related)

HORRIBLE STOPPING POWER

Poor fuel mileage.

I have ideas, obviously replace the cable on that side, but it isnt frozen though.

Anywho, im going back out with a friend to see what happens when its set and released. (wow the drums came off with SOME coaxing from a BFH, but generally not that bad. Ive had MUCH worse experiences)

One more question, Dodge trucks utilize arear ABS, there is a cure, unplug ABS brain box (helps a little) and bypass the ABS thingamajig on the frame the brake lines connect to. (HUGE gain when done together) Can this be done on the Ford rear ABS??

 

[RLDSL]

Sounds like the brakes are out of adjustment ( that's if the pads and drums are still ok), among other things.
You may need to pop the drums off and take the adjuster mechinism off each side and give them a good cleaning, lightly grease the threads and pop them back in, adjust them up and see what happens.

-----Robert

 

[Exekiel69]

Sounds like the brakes are out of adjustment ( that's if the pads and drums are still ok), among other things.
You may need to pop the drums off and take the adjuster mechinism off each side and give them a good cleaning, lightly grease the threads and pop them back in, adjust them up and see what happens.

-----Robert

That is My thought too.

 

[BigRigTech]

My 91 F250 has the 3" shoes already, but I did upgrade to the F350 wheel cylinders - larger bores so there is more stopping force. I also added a F350 master cylinder a while back, again a larger piston for more stopping force. It bolts right up to your brake F250 booster.

 

[Cowboy_Customs]

My 91 F250 has the 3" shoes already, but I did upgrade to the F350 wheel cylinders - larger bores so there is more stopping force. I also added a F350 master cylinder a while back, again a larger piston for more stopping force. It bolts right up to your brake F250 booster.

Good info thanks! Well I found out I do infact have the 3" shoes, at least on the passenger side. I couldnt tell you a darn thing about the driver side, except I have to torch the drum off.
I fought with it for 2-3 hours tonight, not even a wiggle, and someone before me tryed to get it off with success either. The drum is missing the intire lip.
Also on the driver side, the star adjuster spins, and spins, and doesnt stop spinning, BUT it WILL tighten up the shoes, and loosen...... and loosen and loosen.
These brakes have baffled me for 2 years now, I guess im just a step closer to solving the mystery. So anywho, I have tryed everything from elbow grease and patience and liquid wrench to a BFH, so my last resort is a bigger FH, or a torch cause that drum aint commin off in 1 piece. It just sux cause now im in it for a freeking drum at 70 bucks plus shoes and ect ect ect. Wish I had the 175 to just build disks.

Oh, thanks for the opinons guys. I think the root of 90% of the problem now after removeing the right side drum is its just the park brake cables are shot, they will set (kinda), but not entirely release. And not at all on the pass side, it ruined good shoes, and turned my drum that nice overheated brake drum color.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

First thing = buy every piece part and particle of your rear brakes, INCLUDING BOTH PARK-BRAKE CABLES.

It reads to me like the cables are siezing internally.

Also, it reads like your star-wheel adjusters are stripped/frozen.

Brakes are not a mystery, providing good clean functioning components are used.

Park-brakes should be set EVERY time the vehicle is parked; the cables will last much longer, being used, than they will being allowed to rust up from dis-use.

 

[Agnem]

I agree. Sounds to me like your brakes are neglected to the point of no longer functioning properly. Just replace all the cables and small parts. Throw a new set of wheel cylinders and shoes in there, and get some new drums.

 

[subway]

sounds like it might be cheeper just to upgrade and be done. disks are much simpler and eisier to work on anyway. if not i agree i would get a parts kit to replace the adjusters, springs and small cables inside. you might want to try lubricating the cables with graphite if they are not to bad. its a dry lubricant so it dousnt attract gunk. i have had success saving throttle cables and such with it.

 

[riotwarrior]

Forget the drums,

Go straight to disc brakes, yes it may sound like more now, but really think about how easy a pad change will be in a couple years compared to what your going through now?

Think about how much better your braking will be from now until those pads are worn.

Think about how much better you'll sleep knowing you did what you wanted too instead of having to settle.

Besides, if one drum has to be torched off, the other is likely close to the limits of max dia thus you may as well replace both drums for assurance of good solid equal braking per side. That along with the 2 new park brake cables, wheel cylinders, small parts kit, pads + Labor and time it sure sounds like it is time for a disk conversion eh?

 

[icanfixall]

Change it out to discs and then install the hydroboost along with the F450 brake peddle and 1 5/16 inch master cylinder. Then your brakes will plant your nose on the windshield if your not careful. If you do the hydroboost changeover just buy another power steering pump resivour instead of a complete pump. They are all the same inside. That way you don't need to mess with pulling the pump pulley off the old pump.

 

[Exekiel69]

I remember someone came up with a link to replace the drums for disc brakes but I don't recall if it works on duals and I think they used some kind of bracket to hold them and not every one liked it. Still, disc brakes are easy to service and I believe they are an improvement from stock.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I prefer rear disc brakes; BUT, they are a big trade-off.

Park-Brakes are basically non-existent and troublesome on factory rear disc systems.

Also, I have not yet found a rear disc conversion that will work with 16" dual wheels.

I guess one could possibly use 19.5 dual wheels to clear the calipers; but, that only yields an extra 1-3/4 inch, or so, clearance.

If I were to somehow convert to rear discs, I would carry an extra rotor and caliper, as these parts are not going to be easy to find out on the road.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Sure they are. You use a Cadillac rear brake caliper.