REALLY hard to shift

bagpiperjosh

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My truck today has been REALLY hard to shift. The clutch feels very soft and it sticks to the floor for a sec when I try to release it.

It has been hard to shift in the past when the truck was cold. but never like this. Its almost impossible sometimes to get it in gear.

any ideas?
clutch maybe?

thanks in advance
 

FarmerFrank

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Is the fire wall cracked around the master cylinder? If not sound alike the MC is bad and not letting a full disengagement of the clutch
 

bagpiperjosh

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Is the fire wall cracked around the master cylinder? If not sound alike the MC is bad and not letting a full disengagement of the clutch

no, I have already done that tsb repair

would that also make it very hard to put into gear?
 

FarmerFrank

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Or you could be correct and the clutch is worn and you have to push it too far to try to disengage. Any of these would make it hard to get in gear and to shift.
 

riotwarrior

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Cracked clutch fork....don't ask me how I know....but I'd be popping that rubber boot off and have someone work clutch carefully and watch shift fork for flex...

Worn clutch cross shaft pivot bushings, or worse Broken PEDAL setup. Hold a light up under dash a BRIGHT ONE...work pedal with hand..watch for any badness

Worn clutch MC pushrod EYE or the little arm with the pin...and stupid plastic bushing...LOOKING above throttle pedal with light...look at the small arm work clutch with hand..observe for any badness..

I'd start upside and work to the clutch fork once the pedal assembly, cross shaft bushings and pivot arm/pin/eye are ruled out.

JM2CW

Al
 

bagpiperjosh

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so I went to check the fluid in the aster cylinder and there was some in there, but the master cylinder had a little rubber cup looking thing sitting in there that was holding the fluid. I don't see how fluid could get past that and actually into the MC. so I took that little rubber thing out and put fluid in there and im gonna see what happens tomorrow.

any idea what that was about?
 

FarmerFrank

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The brake fluid goes under it, then it then the cap. I think it's just to help from getting air in there. Could be wrong.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Fluid goes below the rubber bladder, not inside it. There should be no fluid in said bladder, none whatsoever. The bladder acts like a membrane between fluid and air, as you press on the clutch and push fluid out the bladder gets sucked in the master reservoir a bit, then when you release pedal and fluid returns the bladder gets pushed by it back to its original size. You don't absolutely positively need the bladder, you can remove it if you wish, but then as you cycle the clutch humidity from the air will come in contact with the brake fluid that lives in the master and brake fluid will absorb it and degrade over time. Think of the bladder as the rubber membrane on the cap of your brakes master cylinder, it's the same thing only different in shape and size to allow for more fluid/air volume displacement per pedal stroke.

Also yes, a clutch that doesn't release properly will make it a royal pain to go into gear. For comparison purposes I don't have to floor my clutch to shift, by habit 1st and reverse I push all the way down but for 2, 3, and 4 half clutch is all that's needed. NP435 trans, runs the same bell and clutch setup as what your (most likely) T19. Once you have that issue sorted out you can also change your fluid from whatever molasses is in there now to something thinner. Between a buddy of mine and his wife and me we have three 4-speeds all running the Pennzoil Synchromesh fluid and we all think they shift somewhat easier now, both when stone-cold and after running for a while.
 

bagpiperjosh

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i took that bladder out, added fluid and drove it to work this morning. it seemed to be shifting better, not perfect, but way better than yesterday. so i dunno whats going on
 

theguruat12

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Sounds like air in the lines to me. Air compresses, liquid doesn't, so your pedal would feel softer, while not disengaging as much.

I'd take the whole hydraulic system off, put in a new fork (lube the pivot point) since it's cheap, they're like $20, and swap all the fluid in your hydraulics. The only old part of my clutch is the fluid line itself, all of my problems went away after I just put the new stuff on.

Also check to make sure the little plastic bushing is on the pivot point in the pedal assembly where the clutch pushrod goes over. If not, it will eat away at the pushrod eyelet. LMC has new ones cheap.
 

laserjock

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My 1/2 ton 88 was that way when it was cold. Seems like I would pop it out of gear going down the hollow (it was a down hill coast all the way) work the pedal while heading down to the main road and she would be fine then. It was just cold. Very well could have an air problem too.
 

LCAM-01XA

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i took that bladder out, added fluid and drove it to work this morning. it seemed to be shifting better, not perfect, but way better than yesterday. so i dunno whats going on
You got air in system still, bleed it and it should be fine. What I wonder tho is how you got fluid inside the bladder, instead of below it where it belongs... Any chance your truck's previous owner was less then mechanically competent and at some point just pulled the cap and added fluid without realizing the presence of the bladder? Then you gradually ran low enough on fluid to where she sucked in air and started acting up.
 

bagpiperjosh

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You got air in system still, bleed it and it should be fine. What I wonder tho is how you got fluid inside the bladder, instead of below it where it belongs... Any chance your truck's previous owner was less then mechanically competent and at some point just pulled the cap and added fluid without realizing the presence of the bladder? Then you gradually ran low enough on fluid to where she sucked in air and started acting up.

that's pretty much exactly what i was thinking. I put the bladder back in and so far its still shifting good. how do i bleed that system? down by the slave cylinder?
 

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