Really cold starts? (down to -30F)

dyoung14

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i think its 6v glow plugs run on a 12v system to make it heat better, i also found that a little more advanced timing helps cranking better but makes engine rattle more, and i've heard it can make them eat glowplugs, but i've never personally ate any glowplugs and i run real advanced timing
 

runaway!

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I wonder if there is a way to adjust the cold advance instead?

6v plugs on a 12v system must be the reason they will burn out if pushed too long.
 

dyoung14

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id say put some good motorcrafts in there hook your grid heater up put those injectors in there maybe bump the timing up a hair wire the four batteries in that way you dont have to worry about cranking power, glow it and grid heater for 15-20 seconds and see if she fires if not glow it and gridheat for another 15-20 seconds and it should fire off
 

runaway!

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id say put some good motorcrafts in there hook your grid heater up put those injectors in there maybe bump the timing up a hair wire the four batteries in that way you dont have to worry about cranking power, glow it and grid heater for 15-20 seconds and see if she fires if not glow it and gridheat for another 15-20 seconds and it should fire off

So a burn that long won't fry the 6v motorcrafts?
 

Alex S

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This type of grid heater would be easy to adapt. just install 2 of them under the air cleaner in the intake

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runaway!

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Alex S

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well if you put them in the IH intake it should be plenty far from the filter to wory about catching fire, but maybe the CRD spraying oil on it would be a bad thing. So hmmm i guess they will still have to be located between the air cleaner housing and the intake
 

runaway!

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well if you put them in the IH intake it should be plenty far from the filter to wory about catching fire, but maybe the CRD spraying oil on it would be a bad thing. So hmmm i guess they will still have to be located between the air cleaner housing and the intake

Is there anything that will bolt onto the intake that isn't so big as the housing? Like a 90 degree elbow shaped metal tube? A cone filter could be grafted onto that with the coils on the base.
 

FordGuy100

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GP's are fine, I just don't want to be stranded because of the sissy 6v system.

And I know the IDI will not start down to -30F as OEM. Single digits on the factory GP system.

IP is fine (maybe needs dynamic timing), injectors are enroute. Current injectors all sound different with a steth, some leakers no doubt.

Grid heater from the cummins is a fab in progress, I've got 3" ID steel tube welded to a plate that will be welded to the cleaner dish. I've only got to invest in some ANL fuse boxes for both 120 amp elements, then wire the works to a push button slaved to the GP solenoid. The whole setup will be fugly, but the motor isn't really a show piece.

I've read extensively about the GP issue with swelling, but I'd doubt I could burn a motorcraft GP for up to 30 seconds without destruction. I thought only autolites swelled. AC Delco were up the scale in quality?

Mine started single didgits with a starter that was going out...I mean turning over maybe 200rpm's...way below what is required.

Only go for 16 seconds at a time...then turn it over for about 10-15 seconds. If nothing, give it another 16 seconds....repeat. With 2 of those batteries, or 4 like you were mentioning you should be okay with a couple of turn over sessions.

What is the dimensions of the grid heater? I wonder if you can fit it in the intake somewhere? Maybe where the stock screen is on the intake manifold?

If you get the grid heater going, give it 30 seconds, 16-20 seconds on the glow plugs...then turn it over. I wonder if your running 4 batteries if you can do both grid heater and glow plugs at the same time? Might want to do grid heater, then glow plugs, hold the grid heater on while cranking?
 

Diesel JD

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Ok, first, the glow plug system is 12V, the glow plugs are reated for only 6, that means they are red hot very quick. The beru/motorcraft will survive a lot of abuse. When I had jumped timing I had to glow 10-15 seconds to get the thing to start, and always had to use them, hot or cold. That said, I'd say for maximum tolerance of abuse the 12V glow plugs are probably the better choice. You could probably leave them on a couple minutes if need be. They do heat up S-L-O-W the application you want for that is the AC Delco from the early 78-80 5.7 diesel, they have the same thread and pitch as the 6.9/7.3. This was called the slow glow system, it's what my grandfather had in his Delta 88 with the 5.7 diesel, never knew it not to start but as a little kid used to gassers I thought it took FOREVER to cycle. This was no Wisco winter though this was NC, no -30s but 10-20* was common. The only drawback on the 12V plugs is they are more expensive than the ZD-1A berus. Unless you know a place to get AC parts cheap. When Paul still ran Diesel Auto Services, which back in the day when most of us were members of another diesel site was considered one of the better online vendors. He sold "Lucas Constant Duty Marine" glow plugs. A member figured out they were actually a 12V AC Delco glow plug but what application we were never sure, and Paul would never tell. I personally suspect that they were from the 5.7, other people thought maybe some Volvo marine application. I would buy 1 and glow test it and see if it performs to your liking. As far as oils synthetic would be better but it might be dicey to dump it straight in to an old engine like that without either going through something like a slow treatment(auto-rx) and/or changing out engine seals. If it was a fresh build or had already had been treated, I'd say something like Amsoil 5w-40 or Roteall 5W-40, since you probably should stick with mineral based for now, 10W-30 that is diesel rated from Shell-Rotella, Mobil-Delvac, or Chevron-Delo would probably be your best bet.... I've heard of some far north members using 0w-40 IDK if it was synthetic or mineral, I do know I have never seen an oil like that down here, especially not diesel rated, but here I have gotten away with SAE30 rotella in the winter(normally 15/40) and we think it is bitterly cold if it gets under 32* for any length of time at night.
 

f-two-fiddy

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The stock set will work every time, IF everything is up to *****.
1: 2 fresh batteries
2: custombatterycables.com cables
3: Fresh Nipondenso gear reduction starter
4: Motorcraft/Beru GP's
5: replace the stock Power and Ground cables to the GP relay with a single 4 gauge wire


If You do this, it'll start without any intake heater, or any other Mod.

I've started My 85 (250K Miles) with Just stock stuff, old cables, stock starter @ -25 degrees.

My 93 will fire with the above mentioned stuff @ -25, like it does when its +25.
 

runaway!

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Mine started single didgits with a starter that was going out...I mean turning over maybe 200rpm's...way below what is required.

Only go for 16 seconds at a time...then turn it over for about 10-15 seconds. If nothing, give it another 16 seconds....repeat. With 2 of those batteries, or 4 like you were mentioning you should be okay with a couple of turn over sessions.

What is the dimensions of the grid heater? I wonder if you can fit it in the intake somewhere? Maybe where the stock screen is on the intake manifold?

If you get the grid heater going, give it 30 seconds, 16-20 seconds on the glow plugs...then turn it over. I wonder if your running 4 batteries if you can do both grid heater and glow plugs at the same time? Might want to do grid heater, then glow plugs, hold the grid heater on while cranking?

Grid heater is appx 3x3 square, 1.5 deep, I'm thinking that glow coil mentioned is the way to go. I just gotta see if i have a tap large enough.

I wouldn't think running the grids while cranking is a good idea, they will create a low voltage condition in the alternator. I'm pretty sure cummins controllers cut them out during turn over, and only cycles them while running.
 

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