Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[bbjordan]

your thinking before the lift pump? like by the tank?

Yes. That would explain why the e-pump doesn't "catch". I also have a carrier e-pump (and luv it!) and mine does the same clatter at the start, but soon goes quiet when the system is primed. I noticed on your video that yours didn't go quiet. I suppose I should have spoken up sooner.

 

[Greg5OH]

Im getting real frustrated with this thing. about freezing this morning. I run the e pump for a minute, there is no air in the filter head when i go to purge after the e pump has been running.

Took me 4 separate crank and glow cycles to get it lit though! ugh, left them on for 15 seconds on the first one, then 10 second intervals between 4 second cranks. This is ridiculous. Lights off fine when plugged in..
I will be pulling all the glow plugs again, keep em hooked up to the harness, make a ground jumper harness and turn them all on tro observe what is happening.
This is ridiculous, truck will never start after work if it continues like this. I can plug in at home but not at work.

 

[Greg5OH]

do you think it could be a worn IP issue as well?

However just now i replaced one return line, was still wet seemed to seep. ran e pump, turned on GP for 10 seconds, cranked fast for 3 seconds then all 8 caught at once.
shut it down, press the shrader valve, no fuel.

I turn e pump on, clean fuel out the shrader-no air bubbles.
turn e pump off, hiss of air at the shrader.

 

[laserjock]

Sounds like you are dealing with more than air intrusion here. Do you have a check valve anywhere in the system? Did you put the little duck bill dohicky on the return in the tank? Does the fuel level matter? Does it do it both full and empty tank? There sounds like something is fundamentally broken. Is your tank vent working? I could see if you are pulling vacuum in the tank it might cause the fuel to run back faster/worse than normal.

Just tossing ideas out. If it were me I'd stick a check valve somewhere and see if that slows it down.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Tank vacuum is something to look into, especially if your vents are tied into the fuel necks. The hiss you hear at the Schrader valve, is that while you hold the valve open or with it left to its own devices? Did you try my suggestion for metal cap with o-ring inside it?

When you were trying to start it in the morning, did you have the FSS unplugged while the e-pump was purging the air out?

 

[Greg5OH]

laser-the facet pump has a check valve to prevent backflow. I dont know what the duckbill thingy is though.
fuel level doesnt matter-full or near empty, same thing.
tank vent works, has 2 actually-one for filling which is tied into the filler (and can constantly vent) and has the make up air vent as well open to free air with one of those little hats on it to prevent debris.

hiss is when i press the valve, not just sitting there. New valve too. Yes tried the oringed cap, doesnt do anything since the shrader itself is tight.

re: FSS, not this time but last time at work i tried that, didnt do anything.

heres twi videos i took last friday.
first video is FSS unplugged u pump running, 2nd video obviously FSS plugged in.
both times, and this morning the pump is running and i can feel fuel getting pulsed through all the way up to the filter head, and obviously is under pressure and has to be flowing through since i get a stream of diesel with pump running and shrader pressed.
last few tiems the pump hasnt "caught" before id press the shrader valve and you woudl see the level rise to the top and the pump woudl quiet down and have a damped sound. TBH dont know if that solved the starting issue because engine was already getting warmed up so it started fine.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-rdu-3eeD4

2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAHZJ9T4ytg

 

[laserjock]

This is the only picture I have handy that shows it.

You must be registered for see images attach

Little red rubber do-dad that is held on by a green clamp at the bottom of the return tube. It's supposed to help keep the fuel in the return line from running to the tank.

 

[Greg5OH]

hmm, i am using an excursion tank and excursion sender, dont recall seeing anything like that..

looked at some stock pics, seems the excursion ones have that too, heck maybe mine does but i honestly cant remember

 

[LCAM-01XA]

hiss is when i press the valve, not just sitting there. New valve too. Yes tried the oringed cap, doesnt do anything since the shrader itself is tight

Hiss when you open the valve means your fuel system is under vacuum. Could be that when you shut the key off the e-pump immediately stops fuel flow, while the engine still makes a revolution or two till it runs out of fuel in the high-pressure side of the IP. In the mean time the low-pressure side of the IP (pre-FSS) is still trying to suck some fuel from the filter head. But there is no fuel coming into the filter cause the e-pump has stopped moving it. And being the IP is not a very strong fuel sucker, it can't suck past the filter and certainly not past the e-pump's check valve. But it tries anyways - as a result the whole section of the fuel system between the e-pump and the FSS becomes under vacuum - and when you push the bleed valve open that vacuum does what vacuum does and pulls air in thru the valve. Technically the "fuel filter" light should come on at this point, but just like the e-pump it's ignition-powered and with the key already off it's dead in the water regardless of what the sensor (that you recently removed) would tell it to do. Btw an engine with a mechanical lift pump will not experience such an issue as the pump will keep moving fuel as long as engine is turning. But with an instant-stop e-pump, maybe it's possible, especially if your engine doesn't shut off ASAP. But I'm not a pump expert, just throwing ideas out there. If you wanna put this one to the test, shut the engine off by pulling the FSS power lead off the IP, and then go back in the cab and shut ignition off to kill the e-pump - this will provide positive fuel pressure into the IP even after the FSS has closed, thus eliminating the possible IP pulling vacuum condition. Then open the bleed valve and see what happens - should have fuel coming out but no air rushing in. If that's the case restart the engine and shut it off again the exact same way, then let her sit overnight and see how she starts in the morning.

 

[Greg5OH]

If we are under a vacuum..that is good and what we want no? a vacuum will prevent back flow..
Anyway, pulling the plugs tonight probably to double check them. I think i ran them once without the Z strip..perhaps without using it they get fried? We shall see. If those look all good, I am going to swap on my spare IP.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Dunno about the vacuum, like I said I'm not a pump guy. But even if vacuum is good, you obviously have an air leak somewhere, and that vacuum isn't doing you nay favors there... Hey, I have an idea - electric solenoid on the return line leaving the engine - if fuel can't flow down the line it can't vacate your fuel system on the engine

 

[laserjock]

That's an interesting idea. ^^^^

 

[Greg5OH]

on thursday i replaced the IP with a spare one i had. looks clean and an IFS rebuild tag on it, no idea of miles. I hooked up my cold advance as well. first 6 starts ot so were here and there, sometimes was almsot isntant, othertimes back to same old, olther times woudl cough and catch pretty quick.
Well now, its pretty safe to say all is well! was near freezing this morning, i glowed for 12 seconds, cold advance on, lit off as fast as if it were warm!
THe timing is a littel more retarded than the old pump by the lines i scribed and the sound. As well as there is less smoke out the pipe and i can hit 21lbs of boost where as 19 was the most i had before, spools quicker/easier. Truck sounds better too, has a nicer more consistent sounding idle diesel knock. Truck used to buck a little in a high gear low rpm, now it is smoooth as butter.
Perhaps the hard starting was due to being too advanced (9.2 degrees before), however doesnt make too much sense, i wasnt CRAZY advanced.
Anyway, feeling good with the truck again. Got the sub visors back on, still need to hook up my electric vacuum pump so my HVAC vent selector works, and then I am winter ready!

 

[IDIoit]

awesome! i know all too well about the struggles of having a project you worked your a$$ off and being less than desired.

the triumphs of getting it to where your happy with it exceed those of the latter.

glad to hear its back up to par,

have to say that i did chuckle a little bit when you said that you need to get it to suck to be winter ready.lol

now if i can get my project to the status of yours!!!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

on thursday i replaced the IP with a spare one i had. looks clean and an IFS rebuild tag on it, no idea of miles. I hooked up my cold advance as well. first 6 starts ot so were here and there, sometimes was almsot isntant, othertimes back to same old, olther times woudl cough and catch pretty quick.
Well now, its pretty safe to say all is well! was near freezing this morning, i glowed for 12 seconds, cold advance on, lit off as fast as if it were warm!
THe timing is a littel more retarded than the old pump by the lines i scribed and the sound. As well as there is less smoke out the pipe and i can hit 21lbs of boost where as 19 was the most i had before, spools quicker/easier. Truck sounds better too, has a nicer more consistent sounding idle diesel knock. Truck used to buck a little in a high gear low rpm, now it is smoooth as butter.
Perhaps the hard starting was due to being too advanced (9.2 degrees before), however doesnt make too much sense, i wasnt CRAZY advanced.
Anyway, feeling good with the truck again. Got the sub visors back on, still need to hook up my electric vacuum pump so my HVAC vent selector works, and then I am winter ready!

This is good and all, but didn't I suggest replacing that IP a while back, like half a year ago? Oh yes, yes I did!

Glad to hear all is finally well. Right in time for lousy weather too...